Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 50
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

As SLED said shimming your valve spring will reduce the amount of lift you can achieve before you encounter binding issues. So it will depend on what lift cams you have as to how much you can shim them if you can at all.

dude, im not saying your wrong or right etc.... i just want to clarify the rb20 that they have built was a lazy engine that was replaced my a fresh one out of a customers car, which had been laying around, they put it in an s14 shell, used a whole heap of parts laying around and FOR A LAUGH tried to find the limits of the motor, It was over a few beers, a few mates and a few laughs after hours and im pretty sure they intended to blow it up, It was by no means an example of what they'd deliver to a customer in any way...

do a search man, i personally wouldn't run any more than 17-18psi which a thicker headgasket.

sweet, so 7-10 would be safe with a decent tune then i guess

As SLED said shimming your valve spring will reduce the amount of lift you can achieve before you encounter binding issues. So it will depend on what lift cams you have as to how much you can shim them if you can at all.

I realise that but just wondering who shimmed them and to what tolerance, cost involved etc.

Im installing 264/9.0 cams into my RB20 which are direct drop in for clearances but wondering if its worth shimming stock springs, buying upgraded items or just let it be :)

Cheers Ben

QUOTE(jager @ 3 Jun 2008, 04:13 PM)

mate seems like turbo tune ain't change much since back in 05/06 they overtuned my engine which almost went bang, before i ripped it out and put a new one in then took it blackwood dyno got a tune from them sudden;y more power better response and it didn't wanna go bang anymore,

then they told me wasn't us it was u!!!

for the 1500 bucks i spent on rb25det including buying and installing and tuning (only 40,000ks on engine) i didn't bother trying to chase it up legally would have cost me to much then

thats my glowing recommendation for turbo tune love ya!!

dude, im not saying your wrong or right etc.... i just want to clarify the rb20 that they have built was a lazy engine that was replaced my a fresh one out of a customers car, which had been laying around, they put it in an s14 shell, used a whole heap of parts laying around and FOR A LAUGH tried to find the limits of the motor, It was over a few beers, a few mates and a few laughs after hours and im pretty sure they intended to blow it up, It was by no means an example of what they'd deliver to a customer in any way...

i realise that it was for fun, i was just dissapointed how they handled the situation on my vehicle and because of my dissapointment i want to put my 2c in, however if they treated all there customers the way they treated me they wouldn't have a business so obviously i was that one unlucky customer, as stated above, really how am i going to prove it was them not me or vice versa, so i cut my losses and moved on.

however i am intitled to give my opinion on how i was served

and i leave it at that as this isn't a thread about me

I realise that but just wondering who shimmed them and to what tolerance, cost involved etc.

Im installing 264/9.0 cams into my RB20 which are direct drop in for clearances but wondering if its worth shimming stock springs, buying upgraded items or just let it be :)

Cheers Ben

Ben unless you're planning on revving the thing alot more than it was designed, go with the stock springs. Shimming is never a good idea and is usually a cheap way out of avoiding valve float at extremely high rpm. We used to see boy racers either shim the crap out of their springs and end up breaking overhead gear due to binding or others that would use double & triple springs which would end up pounding weltite inserts deep into alloy head chambers.

If you are seeking extremely high rpm though, you'll also need to think of upgrades on your internals to be able to cope. Stock springs would be fine if you're only going an extra 1000rpm or so.

i realise that it was for fun, i was just dissapointed how they handled the situation on my vehicle and because of my dissapointment i want to put my 2c in, however if they treated all there customers the way they treated me they wouldn't have a business so obviously i was that one unlucky customer, as stated above, really how am i going to prove it was them not me or vice versa, so i cut my losses and moved on.

however i am intitled to give my opinion on how i was served

and i leave it at that as this isn't a thread about me

yea thats fair enough champ, im not defending anyone but turbo tune have been there for many years so they have to be doing something right i suppose.

Ben unless you're planning on revving the thing alot more than it was designed, go with the stock springs. Shimming is never a good idea and is usually a cheap way out of avoiding valve float at extremely high rpm. We used to see boy racers either shim the crap out of their springs and end up breaking overhead gear due to binding or others that would use double & triple springs which would end up pounding weltite inserts deep into alloy head chambers.

If you are seeking extremely high rpm though, you'll also need to think of upgrades on your internals to be able to cope. Stock springs would be fine if you're only going an extra 1000rpm or so.

On the other motor limiter was set at 8850 and probably keep it there with this one as well with the additional parts (cams, injectors, z32 etc) to go in. Other than that its stock as a rock and will stay that way *touch wood* but will be a little stronger than last time eg: can run more boost/timing :happy:

I think i'll just drop the cams in and see how i go from there with the stock springs for now.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You just need to remove the compressor housing, not the entire turbo. I would not be drilling and tapping anything with the housing still on anyways. 
    • So, I put my boat on a boat. First of all, I'm going to come out and say it. Why is Tasmania not considered a holy goal, an apex that all road-legal modified cars go to, to experience? This place is an absolute wonderland of titanic proportions. If people are already getting club runs for once in a lifetime 30 person cruises to Tassy then I've never seemed to see it. It is like someone replaced the entire place with an idyllic wonderland for cars, and all of the people living there with paid actors who are kind, humble, and friendly. Dear god. After doing a lap of almost all of the place I've found that it's a great way to find out all of the little things that the car isn't doing quite right and a great way to figure it all out. All in all, I drove for 4 hours a day for a week and nothing broke. I didn't even need to open the engine bay. This is by all means a great success, but it has left me with a list of things to potentially address. I also now have a 3D printed wheel fitment tool which annoyingly hasn't got any threads in it to actually assemble it. I might be able to tape it together to check the sizing I actually want to use, but it'll likely involving pulling the shocks out to properly measure travel at least at the front, and probably raise the car while I'm at it, at least in the rear. I scraped on quite a few things and I'm not sure how else to go about it. I was taking anything with a bump at what felt like 89 degree angles. And address those 10 other tasks. And wash the car. God damn it is dirty. And somehow, the weather was perfect the entire time - And because I was on the top of Mt Wellington it turns out it was very much about to freeze up there. I did something I typically never do and took some photos up there in what must have been -10 and the foggy felt like suspended ice, rather than mere fog. If you own a car in Australia, you owe it to yourself to do it.
    • Damn that was hilarious, and a bit embarrassing for skylines in general 😂 vintage car life ey. That R33 really stomped. Pretty entertaining stuff
    • Hi, I have a r32 gtr transmission. Does any of you guys have an idea how much power it will hold with the billet center plate and stock gearset? At what power level and use did yours brake with or without billet plate? Thanks, Oystein Lovik
    • Saw this replica police car based on a Mitsubishi Starion XX parked next to a 'police box' (it's literally a box) in Hirohata, Himeji City in Hyogo prefecture the other day. It's owned by Morii-san who is a local Mitsubishi Starion enthusiast. According to a local radio station blog post, he always wanted to make a police car himself based on ones he saw in his favourite Manga comics.  As it's illegal to modify a car to look like a police car and drive on the road, Morii-san tried many times to get permission from Aboshi police station headquarters nearby. They refused initially by after they got tired of that they granted him permission. However, the car can only be displayed on private property and obviously can't be registered as long as the police livery is present. The car was completed at a cost of 1.5 million yen (US$ 10,000) in addition to the car cost. A location was chosen outside Hirohata Police box where the car can easily been seen from the street. Morii-san has two other Starion road cars, both widebody GSR-VRs.
×
×
  • Create New...