Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I can't see how a bigger I/C can introduce noticable lag.

exactly......

i think 100mm compared to 60mm will introduce lag, but the big question is it enough lag to worry about when you have 10x more air flowing in making more power.

honestly i dont even think u can put a number on how much lag it will be.....maybe .5 of a second? not even?

wont even notice

Edited by R34NRG

If you reckon you wouldn't notice an extra .5s (i doubt very muchly that going to 3.5" IC piping and a 100mm would give that) from WOT to power delivery... you don't drive close enough the the edge ""Loose" is fast, and "on the edge" is out of control" lol.

Got 3 hours left tech head :D

Edited by GeeTR

You'll notice transient response onto boost, inbetween gear changes etc. Nothing that you'll ever really see on a dyno.

And as for making the cooler piping bigger, thats just silly for even a moderate setup on a GTR. Factory is perfect!

GTR gear (factory) is tried and proven by many cars that get tracked here without issue and using the factory item.

well for starters the stock GTR core is only 60mm. so replacing it with a good quality 70mm core will be of some benefit. going to a 100mm core is a big jump up in size so unless you are making the sme kind of jump with turbo size etc I would not bother. plus it's a lot of extra weight hanging over the nose of your GTR that you just don't need.

+1

If you plan a Turbo upgrade latter....and have to change the IC.....go larger.

This is what I have

http://www.nengun.com/arc/intercooler-standard-position

Now I have done some calcs...Yes I am bored at work...I have resigned and starting a new job in 2 weeks...

I have done some numbers on the time difference between filling two intercoolers... I have compared a 600x300x76 with a 600x300x120...I have also taken some rough numbers from a GT35 corrected airflow chart and made a couple of other assumtions that I will explain....

Volume of I/C number 1 = 0.01368 cu m which = 0.4831 cu feet

Volume of I/C number 2 = 0.0216 cu m which = 0.7627 cu feet

Now this is the total envelope of the I/C...I made the assumption that the internal volume of the I/C was about 50% of this including the tanks...

So the difference internal volume between the two is = 0.1398 cu feet

Corrected airflow for a GT35 gets up to about 40 lbs / minute

Assuming an air density of 0.076lbs / cu feet this equates to 526cfm or 8.77 cfs...

So time taken to fill the extra 0.1398 cu feet at 8.77 cfs is equal to 0.016 seconds...

Now this is only a ball park calc but hopefully it makes sense and puts some scope around the lag issue with bigger I/Cs. I dont think lag becomes an issue.

That is fine but you don't worry about turbo lag at the maximum airflow of the turbo.

Pick a point with a much lower PR and a smaller airflow.

You should find that it easilly gets to add tenths of a second to the time.

40lbs a minute is approx 400hp at the engine. But if you are off throttle & at lower rpm your airflow can be much, much lower than this. Which inturn means your lag is much more.

Remember there is throttle lag plus turbo lag to think about.

That is fine but you don't worry about turbo lag at the maximum airflow of the turbo.

Pick a point with a much lower PR and a smaller airflow.

You should find that it easilly gets to add tenths of a second to the time.

40lbs a minute is approx 400hp at the engine. But if you are off throttle & at lower rpm your airflow can be much, much lower than this. Which inturn means your lag is much more.

Remember there is throttle lag plus turbo lag to think about.

True...but even of airflow is 1/10th the extra time taken then becomes 0.16s....

Something I didn't mention earlier was pressure drop...For the same airflow, the bigger I/C would in theory have smaller pressure drop from inlet to outlet. So that would in turn reduce lag...It may be that the lower pressure drop counteracts the extra time fill the I/C

As far as throttle lag is concerned, wouldn't it be the same irespective of the I/C...The same as lag from the rest of the intake pipework...

Actually the lower pressure drop is beneficial in a somewhat unexpected way. If you look at the efficiency of the compressor map you notice the higher the P/R the more heat the turbo will put into the air. So you don't just get a decrease in lag you also get a decrease in the amount of cooling the intercooler needs to do.

Actually the lower pressure drop is beneficial in a somewhat unexpected way. If you look at the efficiency of the compressor map you notice the higher the P/R the more heat the turbo will put into the air. So you don't just get a decrease in lag you also get a decrease in the amount of cooling the intercooler needs to do.

Yep I agree...Thats true for any type of pump, transferring any type of fluid...It just so happens that with air it is very easy to heat...thank god for modern turbine design...more energy into moving air, less energy into heating it...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...