Jump to content
SAU Community

Cooling Pro Stealth Fmic

bored33

By bored33,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

bored33 Grand Master

bored33

Posted
Posted

hey guys!

just purchased myself a cooling pro stealth fmic (600x240x60) and have just installed it today after a few hours. the only hacking i needed to do was a little bit of the intrusion bar to hug around the corners of the fmic and the hacking of a support bracket on the bottom pipe (would not give me that little extra room to line it up with the stock piping no matter how hard i huffed and puffed).

my warning is mainly for series 2 owners - the first bend of the top pipe prevents your front bar (that is, if you have stock) to go on properly due to the fog light and the housing on the left side (looking at the front of the car). i thought i could hack the housing on an angle but realised it was also the rear of the fog light that actually hit the bend as well and thus i could not line up the right side (looking at the front of the car) of the bumper. hacking the housing that was built into the bar is one thing, but hacking the actual housing for the fog light is another.

after an hour sitting in my thinking chair, i decided to remove the stock fog lights + indicator assembly and hack off the housing built into the bar itself to allow room for that damn bend! now i had the problem of an ugly space where the fog lights + indicator assembly should be, so what i did was pop down to autobarn and bought myself a grill mesh and then bought gtr look-a-like indicators and fog lights. what i did was fill up that gap for the assembly with the grill and just cut out holes to fit in the new indicator and fog light. i left the bottom half as stock so basically, rather then having the fog light + indicator assembly, i now have a grill with a fog light and indicator - pretty much a 400R front bar imitation.

just a note - most or some other fmic piping actually go UNDER the fog light + indicator assembly. just weird when i encountered this problem. had me scratching my head for hours taking apart random things and putting them back in thinking i alligned something off.

APART from that debacle, no problems thus far. im quite happy with the fmic. its definitely living up to its stealth because the bottom pipe hides directly behind the bottom section of the front bar and the core itself is actually hiding behind my plates. only noticable if you look hard enough. i get no turbo lag since the pipes use the existing stock pipes so you get the shortest cooling route possible. i have installed 3 other types of fmic(s) and after a test drive the boost does take longer to pick up speed. with this setup, it spools maybe a little faster if not the same. bottom end rpms have alot more pick up (a little but noticable).

i can only assume, but this kit was really meant for the series 1 owners since their bar has more room behind it but anyone with an aftermarket front bar should have no problems.

hope this helps some of you s2 owners thinking of getting one of these.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/214746-cooling-pro-stealth-fmic/
Share on other sites
  • Replies 43
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Posted Images

geraus Mentor

geraus

Posted
Posted (edited)

Hey , Dude thanks. I was about to buy one! i use to have a BLitz LM and i sold it for 1,000 but now i want it bak! :D i only had it for a week !!!!!!!

also could you please post up pics plz :O

Edited by geraus
gotRICE? Veteran

gotRICE?

Posted
Posted
Hey , Dude thanks. I was about to buy one! i use to have a BLitz LM and i sold it for 1,000 but now i want it bak! :D i only had it for a week !!!!!!!

also could you please post up pics plz :rofl:

Is it me or does this make no sence? :P Why buy a Blitz to sell and get a Stealth? Unless you were after some $? Hehe.

Im guessing, in this case if your like me and have an S2 with a different OEM bumper (pictured) Then possibly you wont have the same effects? As there looks to be bugger all behind the indicator, heeeeaps of room. Can only buy one and try i guess!

post-38698-1208149376_thumb.jpg

bored33 Grand Master

bored33

Posted
  • Author
Posted

hey guys!

just an update, i ended up cheating after all because i did not like the look of the mesh - too much attention in my opinion as i like to keep my car as stock looking as possible. i ended up fitting in the stock lights with some very minor modifications to the assembly. here is just the one picture of the whole thing and i apologise for the poor quality. if anyone wants to see the actual modifications up close just post here and when i am free i will take pictures so you can see up close what i did. i did not take pictures of the grill because i was not going to keep that look.

post-32455-1208154486_thumb.jpg

as you can see, most of the fmic hides under the front bar which in a way gets less wind but since its winter i do not think its a problem thus far although since the fmic is rather wide it may make up for that loss in height. i will have to wait for summer and see how it handles. other fmic(s) i have installed uses the bottom pipe area for extra height for the core (hence why the bend usually goes under the fog light + indicator assembly).

i thought about it today and looked at black warriors tutorial (which was a big help by the way) and noticed that since his core was actually shorter in width than mine, the bend that gave me trouble actually bends earlier to hug the corner straight under the head light. the cooling pro actually bends later or else the piping diameter is comprimised! just thought some people would appreciate an answer to why as i hate not knowing why haha.

Silver_R34_GT-T Grand Master

Silver_R34_GT-T

Posted
Posted (edited)
Nice paint job on your bar.

was this aimed at me? and are you refering to the sun reflection? as my front bar is in great factory condition.

Edited by Silver_R34_GT-T

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • CF.Panda
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By CF.Panda · Posted

      Yea that’s why I said ima test them with multimeter and see the reads.
    • CF.Panda
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By CF.Panda · Posted

      Only at idle. Isn’t a problem when rev it seems.
    • Murray_Calavera
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      @Haggerty This seems silly to ask, but are you confident in your ability to tune the Haltech?  
    • hoodedreeper
      Chris' Toyota Mark ii JZX110

      By hoodedreeper · Posted

      Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
    • hoodedreeper
      Chris' Toyota Mark ii JZX110

      By hoodedreeper · Posted

      It was picked up on the MOT/Inspection that the offside front wheel bearing had excessive play along with the ball joint. It made sense to do both sides so I sourced a pair of spare IS200 hubs to do the swap. Unfortunately I don't have any photos of the strip down but here's a quick run down. On the back of the hub is a large circular dust cover, using a flat head screw driver and a mallet I prised it off. Underneath will reveal a 32mm hub nut (impact gun recommended). With the hub nut removed the ABS ring can be removed (I ended up using a magnetic pick up tool to help). Next up is to remove the stub axle, this was a little trickier due to limited tools. I tried a 3 leg puller but the gap between the hub and stub axle wasn't enough for the legs to get in and under. Next option was a lump hammer and someone pulling the stub axle at the same time. After a few heavy hits it released. The lower bearing race had seized itself onto the stub axle, which was fine because I was replacing them anyway. With the upper bearing race removed and the grease cleaned off they looked like this The left one looked pristine inside but gave us the most trouble. The right one had some surface rust but came apart in a single hit, figure that out?! I got a local garage to press the new wheel bearings in, reassemble was the opposite and didn't take long at all. Removing the hub itself was simple. Starting with removing the brake caliper, 2x 14mm bolts for the caliper slider and 2x 19mm? for the carrier > hub bolts. I used a cable tie to secure the caliper to the upper arm so it was out of the way, there's a 10mm bolt securing the ABS sensor on. With the brake disc removed from the hub next are the three castle nuts for the upper and lower ball joints and track rod end. Two of these had their own R clip and one split pin. A few hits with the hammer and they're released (I left the castle nuts on by a couple of turns), the track rod ends gave me the most grief and I may have nipped the boots (oops). Fitting is the reversal and is very quick and easy to do. The lower ball joints are held onto the hub by 2x 17mm bolts. The castle nut did increase in socket size to 22mm from memory (this may vary from supplier) The two front tyres weren't in great condition, so I had those replaced with some budget tyres for the time being. I'll be replacing the wheels and tyres in the future, this was to get me on the road without the worry of the police hassling me.
×
×
  • Create New...