Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have a pair of GTR 32 seats that i would like to sell or even swap for 2 bucket or reclineable seats that will fit in a 33 GTST. Prefer Black or blu in colour. This will save me trimming these immaculate original set of seats. rails will fit in any 33/32 gtst or gtr

Selling= $800 or swap

can be sold separately if sum1 swaps or buys the other seat

Perth buyer preferred

email me at:

[email protected]

cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/21489-32gtr-seats-4sale-or-swap/
Share on other sites

Yes,

very interested! I have a pair of original seats in my r32 GTR but they are not in the best condiitin.....

If you can update some photos i would appreciate it! So that i can be sure that the seats are actually better than my own, even though i am sure they are!

If you are selling the Drivers seat only then i will be interested, as this is the most damaged of my two and i really only need this one....

Also, would you seperate the drivers side plastic trim panel that is on the drivers seat and closest to the driver door? Its the plastic section that covers the chair recliner section.... My seat is missing this section... And i would like to replace it also!

Tom

BNR32, if they come up for sale, id be interested in you worn R32 GTR seats.

I need new door and back seat trim, so would be looking to get the whole interior done, so as long as its only the material thats worn, id be interested.

Roy,

i have a set of door trims, rear seat, and front seats...... Out of the whole set, the drivers seat is the only let down....

I have the front seats in my gtr at the moment as i bought mine from japan with the front buckets removed....

I can sell you the drivers seat for a discounted rate at what GT1 wants for his drivers seat if he will seperate..... ie If GT 1 wants 500 for a drivers seat i will sell you my slightly damaged one for about $380, i think that this is the fairest approach....

What do you think GT 1 and Roy ???

Roy, Perhaps you could buy the passenger seat of GT1 and the drivers seat off me if you want to save some money and repair my seat..... This way i can buy the drivers seat off GT 1 and then eveyone is happy!

The seat isnt really that bad, it just needs the side plastic and it has a small tear in the seat material that is repairalble...... If you wish to take this approach then i will give you a much more generous deal on the rest of the GTR interior trim and any other tid bits that you would lke (have a few wrecked BNR32 GTR's)

Regards,

Tom

At least i actually need GTR seats, come on browny, dont dog me.....I neeeeeeeed this drivers seat!

Browny, how about you buy the set and ill swap you the drivers seat for my slightly damaged drivers seat with a cash adjustment to you.... seeing that we both live in Newcastle it shouldnt be too much hassle.....

I do have a front set of TR seats but the drivers seat has a small teat and i want a perfect one. If you are planning to retrim yourt seats then this is the perfect way to make some money out of me and get a re-trimmable seat. I also win as i get a perfect GRT seat!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...