Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 41
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

i am undecided which way to go...

1. 'border' catch can which vents out the top of the unit with a flat filter (from greenline or rhd)

OR

2. 'essential' catch can as pictured which dont vent out (from greenline or rhd)

what is better for engine? as i understand it venting out is illegal however it does its job better by keeping the air cleaner & not returning it back into the engine...thoughts?

Is it essential to have a catch can?

I have an after market intake pipe and just have a hose off there to the rocker cover breather (the one that usually plumbs into the plumb back pipe) as I have taken the plumb back pipe out

Is it essential to have a catch can?

I have an after market intake pipe and just have a hose off there to the rocker cover breather (the one that usually plumbs into the plumb back pipe) as I have taken the plumb back pipe out

can u post a pic of your setup?

Thats fine abu. I run mine the same at the moment, though i do plan on reinstalling a can at some stage.

I ran without a catch can for 3 or so track days with no issues. I found the can was always dry afterwards so wasn't worth keeping when it got in the way of reinstalling the stock airbox

From what I understand catch can is used on turbo engines running higher boost levels for long periods,

like motorway or racetrack.

The factory system works by air starting at the intake pipe side (before turbo) and ending up inside the

intake plenum via the PCV (Positive Crankcase Ventilation) valve.

You have to block PCV valve hole off and block the intake pipe hole (before turbo) and run 2 hoses from each

camcover to the catch can. Then run a single vent line to under the back of engine. Or vent via a filter

on top of the catch can.

Size in litres, depends on engine capacity and racing regulations. I think 1 litre is minimum

for a RB20DET.

This is probably one of the best guides to building your own catch can, swirl pot that I have seen

with the vent on top of catch can -

http://www.autospeed.com.au/cms/A_1576/article.html

Autosport Engineering are the people to contact in the above link.

From what I understand, what's good about the above catch tank, is it separates the oil from

the air.

Edited by SKYPER
call Performance Metalcraft on 9638 2419 and speak to Leon. He makes the ones that sit in front of the battery and they work a treat

do u remeber off hand what performance metalcraft charge for this catch can?

i will speak to leon tomorrow

Thats fine abu. I run mine the same at the moment, though i do plan on reinstalling a can at some stage.

I ran without a catch can for 3 or so track days with no issues. I found the can was always dry afterwards so wasn't worth keeping when it got in the way of reinstalling the stock airbox

Awesome, thanks Dave

Thats pretty much all the information I was after

u funny farker :) i dont touch that stuff, im a responsible married gentleman

don't lie i know you want to smoke my mums pantyhose your a sick farker (i know you) siko...........................

i am undecided which way to go...

1. 'border' catch can which vents out the top of the unit with a flat filter (from greenline or rhd)

OR

2. 'essential' catch can as pictured which dont vent out (from greenline or rhd)

what is better for engine? as i understand it venting out is illegal however it does its job better by keeping the air cleaner & not returning it back into the engine...thoughts?

essential cant vent out? ;)

just put a filter on the outlet your not using....vented....

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi guys . Can someone help me  I bought an Android screen for my Nissan fuga but it won't turn on   
    • My guesstimate, with no real numbers to back it up, is it won't effect it greatly at all.its not a huge change in position, and I can't see the air flow changing from in turbulence that much based on distance, and what's in front of it. Johnny and Brad may have some more numbers to share from experience though.
    • Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
×
×
  • Create New...