Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I could be wrong here but I believe dropping the exhaust won't help..if anything I believe the exhaust would need the restriction to slow the exhaust wheel down.

To make boost with no wastegate attached seems to be more manifold issue.

Anyway, we'll drop the exhaust and see how it goes.

  • Replies 140
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

I dare say that the 6boost item is a tried and proven design, you are not the first to use it and many people before you have had no issues.

It seems you unfortunately don't want to listen to any advise given to try and help your cause.

im with you on the 6boost thing. i dont really think its the manifold either.

all i said is i wasnt sure about the exhaust....as in i dont know if it is....because we were testing the gate issue at the time...

never said i wouldnt do it....

if the gas isnt being bypassed through the gate due to a flow blockage after teh gate - then this can cause the boost to creep - hence the suggestion to remove the exhaust

what boost controller you using? how many vacuum lines to the gate?

the gate is atmo, its not connected back into the exhaust.

the gates been removed which means it shouldnt make any boost.

but it is, which means theres pressure being made by the manifold. because it cant be anything after the gate....cuz there is nothing....

which means theres something wrong with the manifold......

of course this is only theoretical....and it makes sense

rather then taking off the exhaust....and seeing wat happens

Edited by R34NRG

on your dyno plot get ray to plot manifold pressure if you can

youll probably see its ramping off its ass if the exhaust is very restrictive

does the power / torque plummet after aroudn 4 grand?

on your dyno plot get ray to plot manifold pressure if you can

youll probably see its ramping off its ass if the exhaust is very restrictive

does the power / torque plummet after aroudn 4 grand?

but i dont see how the exhaust even matters if the gate is fully open.....all the air should be passing through the gate and not the exhaust?

i can only assume power/torque keeps going cuz ray said he had to back off because boost was reaching points of 20psi+ when we turned the boost control off and using the gate spring of .9bar

but ill have to ask and make sure

Edited by R34NRG

no the wastegate is purely designed to reduce backpressure in the exhaust manfiold

its not meant to make all the gas flow through it, otherwise the exhaust wheel would slow down and loose speed, thus loosing boost pressure

so when the gate opens, the exhaust wheel should stop increasing speed (ie: boost should stop climbing and stay even) and all things run happily

if the exhaust wheel keeeps increasing in speed, boost climbs, so its possible the exhaust manifold has tons of pressure built up and stuck inside it

which drives the exhaust wheel faster and faster, much like ":unlimited boost:".

why did you choose 44mm

backpressure because of a crap exaust causes boost to drop off though doesnt it? not creep. 44mm gate was what i told him to get, and i cant see how it would be too small.

im still having trouble figuring out how a restrictive exhaust would cause a turbo to spool with a 44mm gate held completely open?

no the wastegate is purely designed to reduce backpressure in the exhaust manfiold

its not meant to make all the gas flow through it, otherwise the exhaust wheel would slow down and loose speed, thus loosing boost pressure

so when the gate opens, the exhaust wheel should stop increasing speed (ie: boost should stop climbing and stay even) and all things run happily

if the exhaust wheel keeeps increasing in speed, boost climbs, so its possible the exhaust manifold has tons of pressure built up and stuck inside it

which drives the exhaust wheel faster and faster, much like ":unlimited boost:".

why did you choose 44mm

that all makes sense but wat im trying to say is that when the gate does fully open....its still not expelling enough gas in the manifold, which keeps the turbine spinning. which causes boost creep

this means a few things

manifold isnt gettn gas to the gate

or

gate isnt lettn enough gas out

i dont know why everyones talking about the exhaust...because the cars creeping even wen the gate is fully open WHICH is suppose to let all the gas through the gate and not the bloody exhaust. so taking off the exhaust wont do jack.

i got the 44mm cuz everyone said it was big enough. tuners, shops, forum members, everyone. even other ppl using similar setups are using 44mms.

are u saying its to small?

Edited by R34NRG
I could be wrong here but I believe dropping the exhaust won't help..if anything I believe the exhaust would need the restriction to slow the exhaust wheel down.

To make boost with no wastegate attached seems to be more manifold issue.

Anyway, we'll drop the exhaust and see how it goes.

A proper 350rwkw/GT35 set-up needs at least 3.5" without gate ATMO especially if your running a 3ltr, cams etc...

A restriction wont slow the exhaust wheel to the point of stopping boost production at full throttle, the turbo will still be making boost from the front end as the exhaust has already been produced & feeding the rear end.

Residual is sitting around causing pressure build up as the motor is making more and more exhaust so its gotta go somewhere and that air is moving faster and faster to attempt to get out.

That's a possibility for what's occurring here and that's my understanding of how it works in a non-educated way :laugh:

If you think the gate is too small - easy to tell that too. Take the thing off and see what happens, another 5-10mins task :down:

A proper 350rwkw/GT35 set-up needs at least 3.5" without gate ATMO especially if your running a 3ltr, cams etc...

theres plenty of 350+ cars out there running 3" all the way with no problems. although i do understand the bigger the better. i think 3.5 to 3" is more then enough on this application. and like i said before it shouldnt be related to anything about the exhaust because when the gate is FULLY open its still creeping

A proper 350rwkw/GT35 set-up needs at least 3.5" without gate ATMO especially if your running a 3ltr, cams etc...

A restriction wont slow the exhaust wheel to the point of stopping boost production at full throttle

no shit.......thats wat im saying, there IS a RESTRICTION somewhere which is causing the exhaust wheel to spin moreeeeeeeee and moree and moreee....not just a lil

If you think the gate is too small - easy to tell that too. Take the thing off and see what happens, another 5-10mins task :laugh:
found the issue.

droped the gate off and its still causing creep.

the manifold isnt flowing enough air to the gate so thats why its creeping.

very hard to believe being a 6boost manifold.....

only solution atm is possibly redesigning the manifold.

read much ash?

Edited by R34NRG
damnnn beaten to it

im gonna be a man here and ask everyone to keep on topic. as much as i would love to take the piss out of ash like he always does to me. ill take a raincheck....

so just to make it clear to everyone.

the car is still causing creep even with the gate off the manifold. stop talking about exhausts cuz its not related.

it has to be the manifold.

but hang on, its 6boost so it cant possibly be it right? i mean its impossible to imagine maybe there might be something wrong with it because a human made it....right

Edited by R34NRG
If you think the gate is too small - easy to tell that too. Take the thing off and see what happens, another 5-10mins task :down:

Yeah did that, about 4000rpm its making 5psi of boost and still climbing.

its strange cuz Mavrics is using the same manifold design and same gate. Had no problem with his. maybe its just a 3 ltr banga motor :laugh:

Oh well first thing on monday we'll drop the exahust and see how it goes.

I think we need another or larger port from the collector.

We'll keep you updated

IS it a built motor with headwork and cams? My guess at this stage, is:

A .86 ex housing is a little small for an rb30det, and if it has cams etc, that would make it worse

A 44mm gate is a little on the small side if you are trying to run low boost.

Ivve seen this same problem on Todd Wilkes 1400hp Gicottolo, boost was going off the dial with the wastegate valves installed backwards it had twin gt35r .86's(if i remember correctly) twin 50mm wastegates on a built 5.8. The night between qualifying and comp at summernats we pulled the turbos off and machined the ex housings 1.5mm(and wired in an autronic) Fixed the boost control.

VB-, if your just going to be a parrot, go to the wasteland.

To date you've offered nothing useful to this thread other that repeating everyone else in the thread because you don't know anything on the subject.

I've said my bit, you don't want to do a 5min check, no problem :laugh:

Andru, you'll never take the piss outta me when you make yourself look like a silly ass with each post you make here :down:

Yeah did that, about 4000rpm its making 5psi of boost and still climbing.

its strange cuz Mavrics is using the same manifold design and same gate. Had no problem with his. maybe its just a 3 ltr banga motor :laugh:

Oh well first thing on monday we'll drop the exahust and see how it goes.

I think we need another or larger port from the collector.

We'll keep you updated

What turbo is Matt using Ray? Is he 3ltr or 2.5?

I cant remember his setup at the moment as he's changed it more often than i used too :down:

If its the same manifold design and its working on near-similar setup i'm surprised as i know Matt's is going a treat :(

No doubt the motor is tip top... just don't tell the Mav someone got a better one lol

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...