Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

95 r33 single turbo skyline when i take the revs up around high 3- 6 thousand range it starts to hesitate and splurt and carry on then once its gone through that it takes off, sometimes it can continue on longer and others times not.. im not sure what the problem is..

When i bought the car the o2 sensor had been disconected and cut off, we dont no why they would of done that so we reconnected the o2 sensor and since then the hesitating has got worse?

Does it need a tune, pcm playing up?

Not getting enough fuel or too much?

I've changes all plugs leads, besides that the car runs smooth.

Any help would be much appreciated.

Jack

If you reconnected and it got worse, the O2 is stuffed... hence it would have just been disconnected.

Really doesnt do much anyhow (if using aftermarket ECU)

You dont have leads on an RB, so not sure how you changed those exactly :thumbsup:

What other mods?

Sounds like a normal case of bad coil packs, incorrectly gapped copper plugs or the lucky last of rich and retard (stock ECU having a fit due to mods other than factory). Could be either one or a combination of some

If you reconnected and it got worse, the O2 is stuffed... hence it would have just been disconnected.

Really doesnt do much anyhow (if using aftermarket ECU)

You dont have leads on an RB, so not sure how you changed those exactly :thumbsup:

What other mods?

Sounds like a normal case of bad coil packs, incorrectly gapped copper plugs or the lucky last of rich and retard (stock ECU having a fit due to mods other than factory). Could be either one or a combination of some

Yeah im not sure what anyone had done previously to the car, but since i have had it i have put and upgrade to the intercooler and lifted the boost about 2 psi.?

I think your rite with the ecu been the problem.. i changed the spark plugs not long ago with uridium style ones.. i might have to do the coil pack next???

Well iridi's are a waste of cash mate and they foul easily (if the car is running rich, that could be your problem in stuffed plugs again)

So pull them out and have a look first, if dead put coppers in.

Coil packs, possibly... but the problem doesnt usually "go away" in upper RPM, but then your boost might be dropping off and that could be a reason potentially also (have you had it on a dyno???)

No i havn't had it on the dyno at all since buying it. Where i live in the Northern Territory the closest place is 500km away and i have heard bad reports on that place from alot of people, so the next closest place would be darwin. 1100km away.

When i change the spark plugs they didn't seem to be showing of any fuel running rich.

The boost dropping off would that be for turing up the boost a few psi? how would i check or find out it was that.?

Map the boost pressure vs rpm, suppose it could be done via your eyes?

Only way (really) is a dyno to be honest, you could probably buy some logging tools and what not but its going to cost some coin and for single use its kinda silly in a way.

Then you cna check AFR's also, just a few basic things that help determine where the problems are (or are not to rule things out)

Did the plugs show anything else? Plugs do tell some interesting stories :thumbsup:

Check the coil packs one by one for hairline cracks, if they have some then they will me arc'in and causing missfiring

NT?

I had to sell my Celica ZR years ago because there was no premium (hi octane) unleaded for sale up there.

If you're running standard unleaded, thats half your problem.

I say run premium (or use octane booster) and fit a new O2 sensor.

lol, haha read my recent post before spend 400 on splitfires "about to fork out on splitfires"..

put new bcp6es plugs in.. if its still a issue then look toward coils..

dont know about u bout 400-500 anit just pocket money to me!!!

Im going to order some new splitfire coil packs for it hopefully that will solve the problem.

Thanks for the help everyone

I just found this thread what do you all think about that?

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Pe...ix-t216342.html

Edited by jack-95-rb25
We have tried that, 98 octane and ab gas, still the same i seem to think it's the ecu, needs to be tuned for the little mods that have been done

you put leaded petrol in your car? AV gas is leaded

thats a bad idea considering you havea catalytic covertor

My brother did that i only just found out it was mixed with 98 and ab gas.. it won't happen again hehehe.

I talked to the mechanic up this way about the coil problem as he has had very little to do with the turboe skylines he said that if it was the coil pack it would be playing up all the time not just at high revs? can anybody shed some light on the coil pack issue.

Hi there i have the same problem when pushing the car past 4500rpm.my car has the following mods:BOV3inch fUJISUBO catback exhaustboost 9psipod filter.iridium spark plugs 0.8mmi had a 3inch exhaust before with holes in it (brand unkown) and it never used to back fire like that.now that i have replaced it with a 3 inch catback it is splurting.any ideas might change the plugs first?

I've been told its the coil pack mate i have not yet tried that but im looking into it.

I was wondering if there's anyway to test the existing coils, or how to check for damages. I was reading in another thread something about the cracks on the coils.. where would they be located if there's any? on what part?

there are a couple of threads for cheap fixes to coil packs

as it revs you increase the air into the motor and the fuel - the need for a stronger spark is now, hence the gremlin coming out.

im currently having similar problems with mine, especially after boosting it to 9psi. under hard acceleration it seems to be reluctant to go most of the time and will then stutter. i was told it is most definatley my coils, and have also been recommended splitfires. my mechanic said it was because my rea coil was shorting, every now and then when the hood is up you can hear a spark sort of sound which is the short.

hope you figure it out,

will have my coils in a few weeks hopfully that does the trick.

peace

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Getting the setup right, is likely to cost multiples of the purchase price of the vehicle.
    • So it's a ginormous undertaking that will be a massive headache but will be sorta cool if pulled off right. And also expensive. I'm sure it'll be as expensive as buying the car itself. I don't think you could just do this build without upgrading other things to take the extra power. Probably lots of custom stuff as well. All this assuming the person has mechanical knowledge. I'm stupid enough to try it but smart enough to realize there's gonna be mistakes even with an experienced mechanic. I'm a young bloke on minimum wage that gets dopamine from air being moved around and got his knowledge from a Donut video on how engines work.]   Thanks for the response though super informative!
    • Yes, it is entirely possible to twincharge a Skyline. It is not....without problems though. There was a guy did it to an SOHC RB30 (and I think maybe it became or already was a 25/30) in a VL Commode. It was a monster. The idea is that you can run both compressors at relatively low pressure ratios, yet still end up with a quite large total pressure ratio because they multiply, not add, boost levels. So, if the blower is spun to give a 1.4:1 PR (ie, it would make ~40 kPa of boost on its own) and the turbo is set up to give a 1.4:1 PR also, then you don't get 40+40 = 80 kPa of boost, you get 1.4*1.4, which is pretty close to 100 kPa of boost. It's free real estate! This only gets better as the PRs increase. If both are set up to yield about 1.7 PR, which is only about 70 kPa or 10ish psi of boost each, you actually end up with about 1.9 bar of boost! So, inevitably it was a bit of a monster. The blower is set up as the 2nd compressor, closest to the motor, because it is a positive displacement unit, so to get the benefit of putting it in series with another compressor, it has to go second. If you put it first, it has to be bigger, because it will be breathing air at atmospheric pressure. The turbo's compressor ends up needing to be a lot larger than you'd expect, and optimised to be efficient at large mass flows and low PRs. The turbo's exhaust side needs to be quite relaxed, because it's not trying to provide the power to produce all the boost, and it has to handle ALL the exhaust flow. I think you need a much bigger wastegate than you might expect. Certainly bigger than for an engine just making the same power level turbo only. The blower effectively multiplies the base engine size. So if you put a 1.7 PR blower on a 2.5L Skyline, it's like turboing a 4.2L engine. Easy to make massive power. Plus, because the engine is blown, the blower makes boost before the turbo can even think about making boost, so it's like having that 4.2L engine all the way from idle. Fattens the torque delivery up massively. But, there are downsides. The first is trying to work out how to size the turbo according to the above. The second is that you pretty much have to give up on aircon. There's not enough space to mount everything you need. You might be able to go elec power steering pump, hidden away somewhere. but it would still be a struggle to get both the AC and the blower on the same side of the engine. Then, you have to ponder whether you want to truly intercool the thing. Ideally you would put a cooler between the turbo and the blower, so as to drop the heat out of it and gain even more benefit from the blower's positive displacement nature. But that would really need to be a water to air core, because you're never going to find enough room to run 2 sets of boost pipes out to air to air cores in the front of the car. But you still need to aftercool after the blower, because both these compressors will add a lot of heat, and you wil have the same temperature (more or less) as if you produced all that boost with a single stage, and no one in their right mind would try to run a petrol engine on high boost without a cooler (unless not using petrol, which we shall ignore for the moment). I'm of the opinnion that 2x water to air cores in the bay and 2x HXs out the front is probably the only sensible way to avoid wasting a lot of room trying to fit in long runs of boost pipe. But the struggle to locate everything in the limited space available would still be a pretty bad optimisation problem. If it was an OEM, they'd throw 20 engineers at it for a year and let them test out 30 ideas before deciding on the best layout. And they'd have the freedom to develop bespoke castings and the like, for manifolds, housings, connecting pipes to/from compressors and cores. A single person in a garage can either have one shot at it and live with the result, or spend 5 years trying to get it right.
    • Good to know, thank you!
    • It's a place for non car talk. There's whoretown which is general shit talking. But also other threads coving all sorts of stuff(a lot still semi car related)
×
×
  • Create New...