Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

im currently having similar problems with mine, especially after boosting it to 9psi. under hard acceleration it seems to be reluctant to go most of the time and will then stutter. i was told it is most definatley my coils, and have also been recommended splitfires. my mechanic said it was because my rea coil was shorting, every now and then when the hood is up you can hear a spark sort of sound which is the short.

hope you figure it out,

will have my coils in a few weeks hopfully that does the trick.

peace

Is there any chance you can let us all no. how you went with the new coils, did it fix the problem or is it still there etc.

thanks

jack

New plugs did the trick :)

hi all, i am have very similar problems with the splurting and hesitation under accelaration have put new twin spark plugs in and had a coilpack replaced when first purchased the car, so i know what a stuuffed coilpack feels like and this certainly is not as bad as that!!

seems to do it only under heavier accelaration, i can gradually feed the accelerator down as the rpm goes up and does tend to miss but have to play with accelerator a bit being careful not to feed to hard or will start choking and spluttering. also get alot of backfiring during gear changes at all types of rpm??????????????

please help unhappy accelarator!!

smidy

smidy,

I'm in the process of fixing the same issue in an R33 gtst for a friend. I have changed the plugs and also checked the cat. The issue is most likely still a coil pack, hairline cracks can result in a lesser breakdown issue. larger cracks give a much worse problem. The solution is in a tube of silastic. I'm done for the day on this car so we will glue the coils in the next few days.

smidy,

I'm in the process of fixing the same issue in an R33 gtst for a friend. I have changed the plugs and also checked the cat. The issue is most likely still a coil pack, hairline cracks can result in a lesser breakdown issue. larger cracks give a much worse problem. The solution is in a tube of silastic. I'm done for the day on this car so we will glue the coils in the next few days.

yeah my old ones that are soon to be replaced have some silicon like stuff around them, my mechanic thinks it was used to prevent the problem but now just not working, ill keep you all posted when i get my coils in, may still b 2/3 weeks though unfortuantley cash flow has gone.

I fixed the problem now and it was not due to faulty coil packs or spark plugs.

The problem was the boost control valve i was runniing maybe too much boost or incorrect in some way or another , anyway i have takin it off completely and the car is running sweet with full power no hesitations or splurting.

Jack, what mods have been made to your R33?

Sure you weren't hitting fuel cut? if your running 10+psi without a fuel cut defender you will get hesitations/splurting. Also what heat-range plugs are you running?

I was getting hesitations/splurting, fixed it with NGK BKR7E plugs and a wasted-spark setup, car is running mint now with 12psi

Only upgraded and the intercooler and put a blow off valve on it... Im not sure what psi it was running when hesitatiing but it seems that ever since taking the boost valve off and running it stock it works fine with no hesitations.. its has less power but no hesitations. Im running the uridium plugs that they recommend for the skyline r33.

fuel cut defender i dont know what that is, i'm sure that could be the reason for the hesitations. where do i get 1? are they easy to install?

I'm not trying to have ago at you, but it sounds like you don't really know what your doing, I'd recommend you do a lot more research into modifying RB25DET's before you go cranking the boost up.

It probably was the fuel cut making your car have hesitations/splurting, which is a factory safety feature to stop people from over-boosting there cars.

if fuel cut on r33s is anyting like fuel cuts on s13 silvias (i would presume its the same, but i could be wrong), it sounds like a different problem. fuel cut on silvias is almost like violent cutout, its feels different to hessitations/splurting when excelerating.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...