Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

Any ideas of what kind of rwkw a stock R33 with a catback would make? Just put on a JJR front pipe and will be goin for a dyno run this weekend so wanna just get an idea of what kind of increase could be attributed to the front pipe? Im thinking maybe 10rwkw?

Cheers

Daniel

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/216185-stock-r33/
Share on other sites

so to make around 200rwkw would i just need about 12 pounds and a fmic?

Maybe... But I think you'll need a little bit more then that... the stock ecu will stop any big power coming out of the engine, no matter what you bolt on... A few guys have managed it, but the majority of us hit R&R before any real power is made...

Edited by nuclear_skyline
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/216185-stock-r33/#findComment-3819499
Share on other sites

depends on how happy the dyno is

I managed 140rwkw on a real dyno without fudged figures with a full exhaust and front mount at 10psi

Then with a Powerfc and 12psi, I managed 209rwkw on the same dyno.

I wouldn't waste your time with a SAFC, get a powerfc, much better to tune.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/216185-stock-r33/#findComment-3819587
Share on other sites

depends on how happy the dyno is

I managed 140rwkw on a real dyno without fudged figures with a full exhaust and front mount at 10psi

Then with a Powerfc and 12psi, I managed 209rwkw on the same dyno.

I wouldn't waste your time with a SAFC, get a powerfc, much better to tune.

lol so your saying your 209 was a dodgy run?

Cause you dont get 69rwkw from 2psi and a tune :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/216185-stock-r33/#findComment-3819639
Share on other sites

if you have a turbo back full exhaust system with a highflow cat, fmic and 10psi i would say expect somewhere from 160-175rwkw.....I have a full exhaust, pod, coilpacks and one freaky motor and made 180rwkw on 7psi apparently....still i dont believe that figure but i guess another dyno run should help

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/216185-stock-r33/#findComment-3819861
Share on other sites

My car runs 10psi and a cat back exhaust, no shielded pod and it pulled 161rwkw.

However, it is a R34GTT which of course means its up 20 odd kw at the engine from factory.

my car at this rwkw runs 97mph, which i think is an accurate speed considering my power.

Power always read different, go post a ET with a trap speed and work out your power back from there :rofl:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/216185-stock-r33/#findComment-3819951
Share on other sites

ok so now i have a question about the cat... when i got it done the guy said i had a stock cat which could be hiflowed...ive got a couple of mates without a cat at all...so the question is will the exhuast run better with a:

a) A Highflow cat like an xforce which i can get for 160 off the forums

b) Have my existing cat enlarged for 140

c) Have by cat knocked out and just have a straight exhaust

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/216185-stock-r33/#findComment-3832197
Share on other sites

well i have a stock everything....added a full turbo back exhuast system....3" split dump/front pipe, x force hi flo cat, and 3" catback with 5" cannon output....but yeah havent noticed any difference to mine...altho my car wont boost over 5 psi no matter what i do.....so i think i have a acutator leak or something....anyone any ideas?

as for ur cat ideas......the x force 'hi flo' cats arent exactly hi flowing....they have the same 'biscuit' inside that is jus bigger than standard...a high flo cat is set up to have more 'open' biscuit where by air can travel better thru it.....i found this out after i bought and installed the xforce hi flo cat....

also dont remove ur cat or gut ur cat....its illegal and will result in a $10000+ fine if ur caught.....

overall its up to u.....but yeah a proper hi flow cat is around the 350-400 mark!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/216185-stock-r33/#findComment-3832277
Share on other sites

I managed 178rwkw on a stock ecu (mines chip'd though) 10- 11psi - on a mainline dyno, not dynodynamics - would of got more but my coils crapped out when we tried turning the boost up to 12psi

Only mods at the time were bleed valve, FMIC and exhaust that was on it from Japan which I later found out the cat was stuffed anyways

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/216185-stock-r33/#findComment-3832360
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • New CAS just turned up from NZ Wiring. Looks like a nice bit of gear.  So, yeah. Triggered, bro. Realised I may as well do the cam belt while mucking about with it so will order one of them.
    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
×
×
  • Create New...