Jump to content
SAU Community

Water / Alcohol Injection

quarkgun

By quarkgun,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

JonTurpening Enthusiast

JonTurpening

Posted
Posted

I had it on my 1st gen eclipse and loved it! You just have to make sure if you have it tuned with the water/alcohol that it always has some in the tank! I had a warning light hooked up to mine to tell me when the tank was getting low. Almost all the rally cars have it on them.

BAMR33 Mentor

BAMR33

Posted
Posted

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/WATER-INJEC...sspagenameZWDVW

This is a good cheap kit, and it has the same pump as the expensive kits. I have installed this kit in my car and it works well, I only use water and it keeps the detonation levels right down.

Fairly easy to install only problem is space, because the pump is huge and you still need a big water tank so you're not filling up all the time. What I did was made up a bracket and mounted the pump beside the the factory washer tank.

The Mafia Grand Master

The Mafia

Posted
Posted

mate, a WMI failure can destroy an engine in seconds, I don't know if I would trust something like this.

Is it a sureflow pump?

Also, pressure switches aren't that good, because your spraying the same amount of water in at 3,000rpm as you are at 7000rpm, and since there is a lot of water going in at low revs, the car can shudder. I like the idea of variable water, brings it in nice and smooth, you'll use a hell of a lot less water\meth too.

Kits are only $600 now, and if you can' afford a kit at $600, why are you chasing the power, or even own a skyline? Sounds harsh, and I apologise, but saving a few hundred on a cheap unknown kit could cost you well into $4,000 on a engine rebuild?

STATUS Grand Master

STATUS

Posted
Posted
Kits are only $600 now, and if you can' afford a kit at $600, why are you chasing the power, or even own a skyline? Sounds harsh, and I apologise, but saving a few hundred on a cheap unknown kit could cost you well into $4,000 on a engine rebuild?

agreed, with injection you are always treading a fine line. Best to use better gear for peace of mind.

i havent used it for about 10 years though.

The Mafia Grand Master

The Mafia

Posted
Posted (edited)

would be a waste of time - you'd probably lose performance because you can't advance the timing in a factory ECU.

Just for those that don't know - You don't get any performance gains for just installing the kit itself. You need to be able to advance the timing to get the extra power.

Edited by The Mafia
BAMR33 Mentor

BAMR33

Posted
Posted (edited)
mate, a WMI failure can destroy an engine in seconds, I don't know if I would trust something like this.

Is it a sureflow pump?

Also, pressure switches aren't that good, because your spraying the same amount of water in at 3,000rpm as you are at 7000rpm, and since there is a lot of water going in at low revs, the car can shudder. I like the idea of variable water, brings it in nice and smooth, you'll use a hell of a lot less water\meth too.

Kits are only $600 now, and if you can' afford a kit at $600, why are you chasing the power, or even own a skyline? Sounds harsh, and I apologise, but saving a few hundred on a cheap unknown kit could cost you well into $4,000 on a engine rebuild?

Yep sureflow pump, looks exactly the same as yours.

I agree variable water injection is the way to go, you buy this kit and get a variable injection module for $50 and save yourself a few hundred against the over inflated aus company prices. I just don't see the point in spending more for the same thing.

I had mine setup with the pressure switch that only came on at full boost, it was also tuned to compensate for excess water provided at lower revs. I also used a small nozzle which had little no effect high rpm but stopped a lot of the knock I was getting in mid-revs.

So it's not the best setup but in practice it works well. I wasn't really aiming for more power like your setup just better cooling reliability as my intercooler struggles at times with the type M front bar covering it up.

Edited by BAMR33

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Dose's Sometimes DIY and Pay Someone Home & Boat Improvement Thread

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Why are people so insistent on making dirty water?!
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      Fark what are the changes of that snapping like that, clean. Nek minnit, custom radiator goes in, with built in oil cooler like those discontinued PWR ones from yesterdeacades ago
    • Duncan
      7 Speed Auto transmission fluid change (Skyline, Q50, Q60, Fuga, Q70, A62 Titan and probably heaps of others including Navara...)

      By Duncan · Posted

      I thought I'd do a write up on an auto transmission fluid change for a the nissan 7 speed Automatic. At some stage the genius engineers decided that the fluid in the trans was "for the life of the transmission", (which seems kind of self supporting to me) and removed the dip stick and fill tube (funnily enough there is still a casting for it). Anyway, for this job you do need 2 specialist tools in addition to regular hand tools, jack and good chassis stands. You need a way to pump fluid up to the transmission; I got one of these but there are plenty of other options: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/364584087070 Don't trust the generic listing though, it does not come with the required adapter for the Nissan 7 Speed. You need one of these, can't do the job without it: https://navarapart.com.au/product/genuine-nissan-patrol-y62-d23-np300-navara-re7-dipstick-fill-connector1 You need a heap of compatible transmission oil. Could be Nissan, could be anything else rated for Nissan Matic S. You need at least 10 litres, I had 15 to give it a better flush... Also, you need some biiig oil catch trays, at least one of these, or bigger if possible (volume was fine, size was very marginal): https://autobarn.com.au/ab/Autobarn-Category/Tools-%26-Garage/Specialty-Tools/Oil-Service/Garage-Tough-Oil-Drain-Pan-Black-16L---GT1068/p/TO03191 Finally, a measuring jug is very useful if your pump does not have volumes marked on it, I got a 6l one: https://www.repco.com.au/oils-fluids/fluid-accessories/measuring-jugs/penrite-measuring-jug-6l-pmj006/p/A5322648 Oh, and gloves.....this stuff is horrible (not as bad as diff oil, but getting there) ....First, jack up your car.....
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I mentioned the apprentice, @LachyK helped take the bonnet off. We just undid the nuts on the hinges and unclipped the gas struts, then pulled the bonnet back a little as the front was catching on the front bar.  I had a good look at everything today and have removed the rams, repaired/reset the hinges and bolted it back together like it never happened. I'll do a separate write up on the repair, and I also removed the poppers from the Fuga today too to save grief down the road.....as said above it is at least $5k to repair retail. I'm also happier about my ability to prepare a race car, and less happy about Nis-nault's engineering (I can hear @GTSBoy sAfrican Americaning) because the top hose of the radiator didn't slip off.......it snapped clean off. By practice I put the hose clamp hard up against the flare on a neck to make it least likely to ever move (thanks @Neil!). I guess that puts a little more pressure on the end of the pipe as it is further away from the rad, but still, that is pretty shit. I've put it back on for now as there was a fair bit of neck still there, but obviously there is no lip on the neck any more so I don't think I'll track it again until I have a new rad. Speaking of which....more research required. It looks like Koyo makes a standard size radiator in ally which I'll grab in the meantime, but I really want something thicker so might have to go custom in the medium term (ouch) Coolant still needs a refill and I have the pressure tester on it over night, but other than a wash down of the engine bay it seems alright. And @MBS206 noted something noisy on the front of the engine and I think I agree....time for a new accessory belt and tensioners I think.
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      our good friends at nismo make a diff for it, I have one (and a spare housing to put the centre in) on the way. https://www.nismo.co.jp/products/web_catalogue/lsd/mechanical_lsd_v37.html AMS also make a helical one, but I prefer mechanical for track use in 2wd (I do run a quaife in the front, but not rear of the R32)
×
×
  • Create New...