Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I am in the market looking for a turbo for my 500BHP ( more or less ) CA18DET project. I have been looking at Garrett´s GT3076R ballbearing turbo but I have learned there is a "fake" and a "real" GT3076R.

As far as I have heard, the difference between the two turbos is that the "real" 3076 has got anti-surge and different compressor/turbine wheels.

I am sure the "real" 3076 would be best for my engine but unfortunately I don´t have that kind of money right now. The "fake" 3076 is almost half price in Denmark but how would it do on a small engine like mine, compared to the "real" 3076???

Which turbo would you guys use on a project like mine???

If you have some ideas I can use for my project, things I might have overlooked or something I should do different I will be glad to hear about it.

I have rebuild my engine with the following specs:

Engine is balanced to 8500 rpm.

Apexi Power FC + Commander

Wiseco forged pistons ( 1 mm. Oversize ).

Pauter connecting rods.

Standard crankshaft ( Knife edged, regrinded, balanced and kryo treated ).

Standard head ( Reworked chambers, valve stems and three angle valve seats ).

Trust / Greddy 2mm. metal head gasket.

ARP head stud kit.

Mechanical lifters.

Jun lightweight flywheel.

Exedy paddle clutch kit.

Trust / Greddy timing belt.

New oilpump ( Nissan ).

Tomei camshafts ( In. & Ex. 260º - 10.25mm. )

Tomei Adjustable cam pulleys ( In. & Ex. ).

Tomei wide coil valve springs.

Turbonetics evolution wastegate.

Treadstone intercooler ( Core size: 550 * 200 * 90 mm. ).

Dump valve ( Aluminum. Adjustable. 51mm piston. )

K&N large Air filter.

Nissan Q45 throttle body.

300ZX Z32 Air Flow Meter.

Walbro fuel pump ( 255 L/min. ).

Sard adjustable fuelpressure regulator.

Sard 800cc fuel injectors.

4” stainless steel frontpipe ( Homemade ).

3” stainless steel exhaust pipe ( Homemade. No cat. ).

2.5 “ stainless steel intercooler pipes + silicone couplers.

Cusco race engine mounts.

Apex performance short shifter kit.

Brand new radiator ( Same size as OEM radiator but twice as thick ).

2 electrical fans.

Oilfilter relocation kit.

Innovate motorsports wideband sensor.

Datalogit logger ( for Apexi Power FC )

Cheers

Jesper

forget the fake one, as it could destroy your engine if it is a super fake one.

Why spend all the money and skimp on the main component?

Go and ask for a Garrett GT3037.

I had the 7 blade version of the GT3076 and it only made 240rwkw before it ran out of puff

Mafia:

Never said thanks for the map you sent me. It gave me a good view of how much you actually advanced the ignition. So THANKS. :)

But ehm... A garrett GT3037? isnt GT3037 a HKS item? :(

The turbo he is talking about is not a "super" fake... Its just the 7 blade version.

Edited by nissan200sx.dk

700382-5012 GT3076R 350-500Hp (2.0L-3.0L) 700177-5007 436157-23 YES 0.60 57.00 56 448420-2 54.98 84 Not Supplied N/A N/A YES N/A Not Supplied YES M14x1.5 Inverted Flare .438in-24UNS 2 Bolt M8x1.25 Purchase Turbine Housing & Actuator Seperately

I've emailed you a speadsheet with them all on it

Edited by The Mafia
actually. no.

HKS make a GT3037 Pro or GT3037 ProS

Garrett Make a vanilla GT3037.

The difference is the Compressor Trims. Garrett run a 56trim, HKS use a 52 trim

the current HKS 3037's are all 56 trim comps as far as i know.

contrary to the above comments the HKS 3037 is available in 3 trims 48, 52 and 56.

built a killer 300+ rwkw CA18 for a guy in sydney (same guy has his black 300awkw evo in current fast fours, acyually its his mums but we did the receipe :))

if i was you i would be looking at a genuine HKS GT3037 as the rear housing are far superior and on a small capacity engine will make quite a differrence (on skylines the differrence is measurable but the extra money vs gain is generally to small for many to warrant it) i do alot of SR20 engines and setups and can never match the Garrets resukts to the gen HKS items except in the real small GT-RS range.

i would look at the 56trim 0.73 rear 3037S part number 1401-RA127 (450+hp) if it were mine i would run the 0.61 housing (1401-RA126) and live with a little less top end (420-440hp) and heaps more mid.

the other option is to buy the garret version and fit the HKS housings which are about $400-500 US

turbo is a gcg "special" 3076r with tial rear housing and surge slotted cover, 260rwkw on 14psi full boost by 3500rpm on a 2litre.

i apologise but the info above is taken from another forum, I'm not personally sure on the exact specs but i saw the thing close up on the way back from QLD, we all stopped at Raleigh raceway for a quick thrash.... it is by far the best engineered car out there... bar none.

Thanks URAS, yes GCG supplied and fitted my Tial housing too. The beauty of the Tial housings are that the T28, T30 and T35 housings all have the same size footprint. So I can swap turbo's without requiring new manifolds, gates, dump pipes.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Oh, forgot to add, A few months ago I was getting mixture codes and the car was using crap loads of fuel. You could smell the unburned fuel in the exhaust, it was crazy strong. Economy was over 17.5 l/100 and usually around 19. I smoked the engine and found a leaky CCV hose which I replaced and then I replaced my two pre cat O2 sensors, I also replaced the MAF. This fixed my mixture codes and improved my exonomy but I'm still 14 - 15 l/100 when pottering about town so something is still amiss. Throttle response is much better and it has more pep but I'd like to know why it's still so thirsty (and I'm hoping that whatever it is gives me a bit more poke).    
    • Car is on factory injectors/z32 maf/ q45 throttle body/ z32 ecu with nistune 
    • Hello all, currently finishing up a rb25 swap into my s14. Having issues with starting, car has spark (confirmed by pulling a plug and watching it spark), has fuel(confirmed by checking pulse/voltage at injectors all spark plugs are soaked in fuel). Car cranks over and pops into the exhaust with a heavy fuel smell but no attempt to start or run, I have torn the timing cover off and triple confirmed timing, turned the CAS in multiple spots both directions, attempted to start with coolant temp and maf unplugged, checked my fuel lines and made sure they weren’t backwards, checked voltage at cas/injectors/coilpacks, made sure all the grounds in the harness are connected and added a few grounding straps (1 from chassis to block, 1 from chassis to head, and 1 from chassis to igniter chip) I am getting stumped here. As a last ditch effort I made a full grounding harness tonight that’s going to run from the battery and add an extra ground from the battery onto the coil pack harness/igniter chip/ intake manifold/ Wiring specialties harness ground/ and alternator. I’m hoping maybe the grounding harness will fix it here but posting here to see if anyone has any other ideas on what else I can check. My fuel pressure is unknown right gauge will be here tomorrow.  IMG_3206.mov
    • yeah I was shocked when I checked my spare OEM on and as below that's how they come from Nissan. (side interesting note new NEO gearbox and replacement park lack the brass bush on the tips and its just all alloy) unsure about damage to the box currently back at 1110 to be pulled down/inspected and selector fork replaced as he built it previously and given the never before seen failure on his billet forks he is replacing it under warranty. He said he has used always OEM the keyway tab without issue for years so it could be an unlucky coincidence. I did talk to him about the sharp corners and stress concentration too. Re: hard shifts i got 7+ years out of the OEM one and the fork itself failed not the keyway. so could be bad luck as I said or an age thing + heat cycles in box and during fabrication of billet?
    • That's some really horrible design with the way it's cut/shaped! Is there much damage to the box that failed in? IE, new fork and you can go again, or is it a total rebuild again? Id be trying to build that piece from scratch, and getting some reliefs added in the corner to hopefully stop breakage, and then swapping boxes ASAP, and then doing the same to the currently good working box. I'm assuming hard shifts have not been friendly to it!
×
×
  • Create New...