Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i recently (last week) went out and bought myself an electronic boost controller, GReddy Profec Bspec II, while not exactly top of the range, its good for what i need it for,

now all i need, is a workshop to install it, and give her a dyno tune (badly in need of one)

can any one recommend a shop? and rough price?

thanks in advance :down:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/216412-reputable-workshop-recomendations/
Share on other sites

then there is nothing to tune.... but you could get it remapped by speedlab etc there in adelaide.

best bet is to get a mate to help install it and set it up on the road. Best boost control settings are ALWAYS done on the road as a dyno CANNOT perfectley replicate road conditions.

then what the fark is wrong with it if it cant be tuned? it spools up hard like normal, but only pushes a whole three-5 pound boost! its slowly getting lower and lower!

i got told to get an ebc and take it to be tuned.

is this the prob? or do i have a bigger prob on my hands? like a dying turbo?

then what the fark is wrong with it if it cant be tuned? it spools up hard like normal, but only pushes a whole three-5 pound boost! its slowly getting lower and lower!

i got told to get an ebc and take it to be tuned.

is this the prob? or do i have a bigger prob on my hands? like a dying turbo?

Stock ECU's can't be tuned (or re-tuned easily) the boost controller could be "tuned". But its more just putting the settings on the controller correct.

If your losing boost you may have a problem which a workshop could assist with, how are you measuring boost though?

Also, most states have a recommended workshop list, I'd recommend workplace, just drive to Bayswater, Victoria :P

ha ha, bit far to drive mate, im measuring the boost on the guage in the stock cluster, and the autometer boost guage i had installed, both read the same, and trust me, it feels no where near as quick as it used to..

  • 2 months later...

Read your profec instruction manual, then go to a quiet bit of road somewhere with a friend and play with settings.

Since its a stock 33 turbo 12 psi is an appropriate amount of boost. On mine i do set to 50% gain to 20 and set gain to 12 and that gets about 12 psi.

Just as long as you notice when you go over 12 or so psi and de tune to less pressure so you don't hurt your turbo.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My guesstimate, with no real numbers to back it up, is it won't effect it greatly at all.its not a huge change in position, and I can't see the air flow changing from in turbulence that much based on distance, and what's in front of it. Johnny and Brad may have some more numbers to share from experience though.
    • Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
    • Pull codes via the self-diagnosis procedure. As far as I can tell this is just a sign of transmission issues but not a code unto itself.
×
×
  • Create New...