Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Looking to replace my stock wheels on my black (and completely stock) r34 gtt and I really like the look of some of the 10 spoke wheels .. plus everyone seems to have 5 spokes

Has anyone got a black gtt with a 10 spoke wheel set by any chance ? or have you seen pics posted of one anywhere on SAU ?

Tempe have these wheels that are 10 spoke but they only come in hyper silver ..no shadow chrome which is what I'd like http://www.tempetyres.com.au/products_clos...mp;part_no=1478

Do you think the car would look silly with 18" rims with 10 spoke design with stock suspension ? This is the look I'm after:

post-49910-1209140704_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/216458-10-spoke-wheels-on-r34-gt-t/
Share on other sites

I just found these rims that look very similar to the ones pictured.. and the price is good. Anyone know if the RPM brand is any good or absolute shit? http://bigotyres.com.au/showcase/index.php...products_id=503

Before buying from tempe, or other local places, find out the offsets they come in.

You dont wanna be spending big money on rims with shit offsets which wont suit the car at all..

why not go with something like VOLK CE28N - 10 spoke, Jap light weight rim and probably is forged.

Or perhaps some WedSports. Most of them come in multispoke!!

But honestly i wouldnt buy anything from tempe

Edit: The r34 you attached - are those the new advans?

Edited by siddr20

personally i think 10 spokes would look great on a 34. however it all depends on the offset ya get,how they sit on the car and your budget.

im a little biased as i like the look of mesh and multispke rather than the 5 spoke styles.

any japanese wheels will be 2-3x more exxy so are pretty much out of question unfortunately ..I'm not gonna buy from tempe because they're SOOO dodgy (I was in there today and god .,.I never wanna go back) Not sure if BigO's is any better ..

You can always buy 2nd from japan..

Will be from 1.5k to 2.4k MAX for a decent light weight rims.

i have seem some Ce28ns for 2k landed with rubber!!

Whats the price for rims if you buy here locally? as in from tempe etc..

Edited by siddr20

i bought 2nd hand ssr's from japan that were in showroom condition for the same price i paid for my brand new aussie wheels... and the jap ones had way better rubber!

from http://j-imports.com.au/

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Have you done the Ignition Sync Wizard in the AEM software?
    • Find out what RPM it was idling at with the IACV unplugged. It's very weird that the rpm didn't change at all, and then it stalled. When it stalls is it nearly like a switch off, like you've turned the engine off? Or is it more stutters and sputters and coughs to death over a few seconds? Or does the RPM just slowly keep going down and down? Have you done a test of trying to start it with the AFM unplugged? Does it still die?     If you Follow Josh's advice on using Nistune to check the voltages (which is a perfect method!) if you see anything out of wack voltage wise, THEN get the multimeter out and read the voltage directly at the sensor. If the two vary, then you're now looking for a wiring issue vs a sensor issue. So be aware, what the ECU sees, may not be what the sensor is actually saying too...
    • You very likely need to get it on a dyno and tune it. My assumption is, you've got an RB25DET tune in it, which has a different manifold, different injectors, and different cams as a minimum. What O2 sensor are you running?   When you say it runs extremely rich from idle all the way to redline, is this just free revving it you see that?
    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
×
×
  • Create New...