Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Alright I was just wondering what is the leanest afr you guys would consider safe. Basically I have a stock rb26 with no boost restrictor, exhaust and a FMIC, so the boost is around 15psi. had the car on a dyno and the afr ratio was mostly in the high 11s and low 12s but spiked at about 12.9. Is this getting pretty dangerously lean? Thanks for any help. Also what AFR would you recommend tuning to when I get PFC?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/217188-safe-afr/
Share on other sites

As NYTSKY said you 11.8 is safe! Don't risk it with 12.9!! I know many tuners that tune with afrs like yours but it is risky and to have many horsepower!

Better safe than sorry!

If you have with 15psi 12.9, try 12psi or less!!

Better safe than sorry!

Buy a PFC or remap your stock ecu. It is cheaper than to rebuild your engine!!

Better safe than sorry!

:rofl:

Edited by GreeceS13
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/217188-safe-afr/#findComment-3835250
Share on other sites

So the stock injectors should be good enough to keep up with the 15psi? Also is anyone sure what the boost is without the boost restrictor on a GTR? My car is swapped so I am not positive that the turbos are stock, since i got the motor with 30k on it. though I am pretty sure cause they appear to be stock. Also yes it is a stock computer. Fuel pump is a walbro 255lph so I would think it would be fine. I am gonna get it back on the dyno in a couple weeks and take another look at the afr.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/217188-safe-afr/#findComment-3838430
Share on other sites

A print out of the dyno sheet... power vs AFR & power vs boost would be able to tell me if its dangerous or not. The first one would help if thats all you have.

Alright I was just wondering what is the leanest afr you guys would consider safe. Basically I have a stock rb26 with no boost restrictor, exhaust and a FMIC, so the boost is around 15psi. had the car on a dyno and the afr ratio was mostly in the high 11s and low 12s but spiked at about 12.9. Is this getting pretty dangerously lean? Thanks for any help. Also what AFR would you recommend tuning to when I get PFC?
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/217188-safe-afr/#findComment-3838453
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...
A print out of the dyno sheet... power vs AFR & power vs boost would be able to tell me if its dangerous or not. The first one would help if thats all you have.

I will post a dyno sheet when if i can get ahold of one. Also what should the stock wastegate boost pressure be for the stock turbos? my car is boosting between 15 and 18psi. seems like that is higher than it should be.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/217188-safe-afr/#findComment-3945598
Share on other sites

12.9 isnt dangerous if you have timing to match, which out of a stock ECU shouldnt be too bad, but still dont drive it hard, i'd get it tuned properly first. that said i have seen cars (R34 GTR is the first one that comes to mind) that came out of racepace and was on a dyno elsewhere, its A:F ratio was 13:1 up top, and i believe thats just how it was tuned. i quizzed the dyno operator on it and said he'd seen it a few times from racepace adn it works fine, just less margin of error for crap fuel etc.

point is, i wouldnt say its bad if racepace is doing it (that said i could be entirely wrong lol)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/217188-safe-afr/#findComment-3947297
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • I feel like I'm missing something. You had an authorised installer come out and install a new alarm. Post install the car doesn't start, and you aren't getting the installer back to fix what they did wrong?
    • So either way it is gearbox out and look what is wrong?  I know about the input shaft bearing. Even before swap/new clutch the it sounded exactly like this: So is that inout shaft bearing or the other was installed backwards?  And can some please tell me the part number for that input shaft bearing? The gearbox is small box from R34 N/A and number is FS5W71C. Thank you  
    • I am yet to see anyone ever regret a quaife or helical. ...other than drifting/skidpan duties. I kind of want to upgrade my factory helical with a Quaife (but really it's not ultimately that different, and is a MASSIVE UNDERTAKING), that's how good the hype is about them, that I want to try them 'just to see'  
    • D2 and Ksport are essentially the same thing and basically just generic Taiwanese manufacture. Better than ChinaBay crap, but... not top shelf. Öhlins have got to be some of the best dampers around, so likely to be a good option. It's going to get to the point though where I suggest you buy from Oz. We have at least 2x excellent options here. If I were you though, I'd be talking to KW about doing something for the R33. There's bugger all difference between that and the 32. In GTR land, anyway.
    • KW only offers a set for the R32 GTR. Popular options are D2 racing, Ksport or Öhlins. I have a D2 Racing coilover set, though I don't know for sure which one.
×
×
  • Create New...