Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 131
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Any comments on the D-max from Racespec though? Whether it's gonna be the same or not?

we were a bit sus if the d-max gear that empire euro were legit, cos they look like they've been pulled from the mould a few too many times (like the edges of the guards weren't quite 90 degrees to the rest of the panel)... but they assure us that they are originals... and also they're not as wavy as the viva stuff... either way is still needed a high fill, sand and stuff to get it looking mint. couldn't comment on what racespec sells, never seen or used em.

I got the BN kit from BN Sports in japan, cost a fortune to bring over. Sold it below cost cos I never got around to fitting it (just wasn't a reasonable kit for a road going car). In the meantime we comissioned a company to copy my kit... we fitted a couple... but at the same time and they sold copies to other companies without us knowing... so there's a few getting around now.

Having flared guards without the wheels to fill them would look pretty strange and imo homo.

definatley agree with this, but when i got mine fitted i told the guys that i wanted them to sit out from the body just slightly and they would set it up for me. also wouldnt stretch tyres over.

i wanted it to look very similar to the white 33 with the flared gaurds earlier in the topic but was told they wouldnt do it!

who will do it, and cant spacers bring your rims out more?

peace

Gez

Well, I got my guards slightly flare today for $120.00 (only the two back ones) - quite plesaed with the result... however, now I will have to get fatter tyres and spaced them out a bit.

Does anyone know of a good profile for 18 inch rims on a R33? Cheers.

depends on your offset dude...

go pull a wheel off (or crawl under your car if its stock ride height :P )and it'll be stamped / stickered on the inside

definatley agree with this, but when i got mine fitted i told the guys that i wanted them to sit out from the body just slightly and they would set it up for me. also wouldnt stretch tyres over.

i wanted it to look very similar to the white 33 with the flared gaurds earlier in the topic but was told they wouldnt do it!

who will do it, and cant spacers bring your rims out more?

peace

Gez

are you buying new rims?

its the offset not the setup...

you can use a spacer for a few mm but after that it becomes dangerous as the more spacer, the less thread...

the best way to do it is to use an offset calculator when getting new rims :P

someones been browsing zt.com :P

Yeah, I browse zt.com's wheel whore thread, but those weren't from zt. I stole the pics from zilvia.com's thread. :D

I always browse those two threads. Best two threads for wheel fitment info and pics. :D

Well, I got my guards slightly flare today for $120.00 (only the two back ones) - quite plesaed with the result... however, now I will have to get fatter tyres and spaced them out a bit.

Does anyone know of a good profile for 18 inch rims on a R33? Cheers.

pics?

did it affect/damage the paint at all?

hehe theres a build thread for that 32 in the body section, hickmaster r32 or something rather

Oh really? Thanks for letting me know, will check it out now...

Edit: This is his second 32 I think. He had a nice red onevia, sold it to get an R32, got over it, then bought I think it was an S14, then went back to the 32. haha. I remember asking him about his onevia's wheels specs, I didn't realise this was his car!

Okay, back to main topic.... :P

Edited by adam-__-
pics?

did it affect/damage the paint at all?

Just an update to all - I finally spent some cash and got brand new tyres today which set out a bit more to fill the guards - looks tough as in my opinion...

To answer your question, R-SPEC - only the lower edges of the arch had some paint flaking off, but i touchd it up with some paint and it's barely noticable... i would definltey recommend this, although it's not a big flare, it's definitely a noticable difference. awesome.

are you buying new rims?

its the offset not the setup...

you can use a spacer for a few mm but after that it becomes dangerous as the more spacer, the less thread...

the best way to do it is to use an offset calculator when getting new rims :P

yeah already got some, they sit nicely with the body but still would like it to look a bit meaner lol.

how many mm do you think is too much? cause im looking at getting flared front fenders, only 30mm wider.

sorry about changing topic a bit btw.

cheers

Gez

Just an update to all - I finally spent some cash and got brand new tyres today which set out a bit more to fill the guards - looks tough as in my opinion...

To answer your question, R-SPEC - only the lower edges of the arch had some paint flaking off, but i touchd it up with some paint and it's barely noticable... i would definltey recommend this, although it's not a big flare, it's definitely a noticable difference. awesome.

Who did you end up getting it done by?

yeah already got some, they sit nicely with the body but still would like it to look a bit meaner lol.

how many mm do you think is too much? cause im looking at getting flared front fenders, only 30mm wider.

sorry about changing topic a bit btw.

cheers

Gez

I would say that anything more than 10mm spacers are too much if you're looking at only slip ons. If they're bolt ons then I wouldn't really care as long as they're hub centric.

there is no way in hell you can safely run 30mm spacers...

i run 3mm on the fronts just to clear the calipers.

you will need either:

a custom unit

a bolt on set if there is one available

new wheels

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You are selling this? I have never bought something from marketplace...i dont know if i trust that enough. And the price is little bit "too" good...
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
×
×
  • Create New...