Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Looking for a tidy 33 or 34,

Manual

around 100 *** km

im buying for power but ill check out any

can inspect asap.

was looking to buy gregs Dou33 but sold before i got there ^^

anyone and everyone who is thinking of selling let me know so i can check it out :happy:

iv been looking through the threads but as you probably know they get pretty old pretty quickly and

most done have a sale confirmation post.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/217659-wtb-33-34-ready-to-buy/
Share on other sites

Looking for a tidy 33 or 34,

Manual

around 100 *** km

im buying for power but ill check out any

can inspect asap.

was looking to buy gregs Dou33 but sold before i got there ^^

anyone and everyone who is thinking of selling let me know so i can check it out :happy:

iv been looking through the threads but as you probably know they get pretty old pretty quickly and

most done have a sale confirmation post.

got 2 r33's for sale man. plenty of mods and power. will be monsters with bigger turby and comp upgrades, leaving the country need to go. in sydney, no problem if you want to meet half way lol.

Edited by AdamsFast1

havent bought one yet, after seeing a few power focused builds iv decided to look for around the 200kw mark for a 33. had some pretty nasty surprises whilst looking haha

  • 1 month later...

driving along the road little wet and oil on the road went to change lanes whole car went sideways into oncoming traffic so i turned away done a 180 into the gutter and f**ked my rear right wheel folded under so on a angle like this / looking from the back and my rim got bent out of shape also front right guard has a small dent from a small tree but thats no prob because one of my best friends husband is a panel beater

saw a few other cars get a little slip there 2

made an image of the path i took and what the car looks like (my epic paint drawings) - will get some photos of the insurance so i can give to get quote

post-50429-1215349873_thumb.jpg

post-50429-1215349887_thumb.jpg

Edited by Damit
driving along the road little wet and oil on the road went to change lanes whole car went sideways into oncoming traffic so i turned away done a 180 into the gutter and f**ked my rear right wheel folded under so on a angle like this / looking from the back and my rim got bent out of shape also front right guard has a small dent from a small tree but thats no prob because one of my best friends husband is a panel beater

saw a few other cars get a little slip there 2

made an image of the path i took and what the car looks like (my epic paint drawings) - will get some photos of the insurance so i can give to get quote

That sucks man. What road was this?

driving along the road little wet and oil on the road went to change lanes whole car went sideways into oncoming traffic so i turned away done a 180 into the gutter and f**ked my rear right wheel folded under so on a angle like this / looking from the back and my rim got bent out of shape also front right guard has a small dent from a small tree but thats no prob because one of my best friends husband is a panel beater

saw a few other cars get a little slip there 2

made an image of the path i took and what the car looks like (my epic paint drawings) - will get some photos of the insurance so i can give to get quote

i saw you just after you did that...but by the time i got back to you with some parts and gear to get you away from the scene, you were gone.

BTW thats not oil on the road, its just a slipery bit of tarmac, i have fun there every time it rains...

sorry to see your car all banged up tho

cheers

Jason



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
×
×
  • Create New...