Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey people i have been looking at the dump pipes and high flow cats on just jap forum,does anyone know what will go on my stag without mods(or very little) is it a r33 split dump??, only have the fmic and 3'' from cat cat back.

also the TURBO,will a t04e with external gate fit straight on? not goin for a huge power diff,just new turbo,what fits,looked around but there is no def answer.if i decide to keep car what stainless manifold would fit and different turbo,if i can find these out i might keep my car :dry:

if there is something to go straight on please let me know,or let me know what has to be done,thanks

Edited by stagpower
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/217967-just-jap-partsturbo/
Share on other sites

I got a bell mouth JJ dump,R33 I think and anX Force Hi Flow Cat, perfect fit with no mods.

All bolts and gaskets supplied.

sorry,so of the 3dumps they have advertised,which is it?? thanks for info

sorry,so of the 3dumps they have advertised,which is it?? thanks for info

Got links to these 3 dumps?

I've got a T3/T4 turbo I'm getting rid of. Bolts straight on, but is oil cooled only.

The split dump in the first link will not fit, it hits the floor due to being a straight run of pipe

The bell mouth in the second link, which is a direct copy or the same as a x-force pipe will fit

The x-force are $330-350, The JJR one is $199 and good value. Just hope they have sorted their flange to turbo warp problems out with these new pipes.

G`Day all having just read this i must add,I have fitted bellmouth dump pipe to my series 2 & would say that they DON`T fit we ended up cutting it throw the gut`s & rewelding it as it hit`s the body now some one will say who fitted it is hopeless well he work`s for a performance shop & build rollcage`s & fab`s lot`s of stuff for motorsport, zrost for lot`s of different car`s ,he said this is the best way to do it unless your be rooting around for age`s.IT has made a great difference to the car & would tell any one to get a 3in bellmouth dump,i drove to kalgoolie on saturday & back the same day,& found that fuel econemy is much better 10ltr per 100kms at 140 + most of the time so yes very pleased with my mod 3in till bend then 4in with rsr rear muffler,it has made a big difference to the way the car performes.hope this will help some of you .cheer`s chuckie.

Darrin,

As I have the JJ model, could you expand on your comments please.

When I went thru the dump pipe fitment drama's, search for old thread. the split dump that I bought was not well made, it was warped 3 different ways due to the flange materail being too thin, but was told they were working on fixing the problems.

When I went thru the dump pipe fitment drama's, search for old thread. the split dump that I bought was not well made, it was warped 3 different ways due to the flange materail being too thin, but was told they were working on fixing the problems.

Thanks Darrin, I'm fine then, mine is a singgle Bell Mouth. Incidently on the cruise last Sunday I was down to about 13l/100

That is 3l/100 less than before I fitted the dump and X Force.

I'm wondering about going 4" cat back without a resonator"?" and a bigish cannon. But it may be a bit noisy.

The R33GTST Group Buy split dump fitted perfectly on mine, which has a Magic cat and a modified Nismo R32GTR 3" exhaust. I ended up using that particular split dump on the R33GTST and the Stagea now has a Performance Metalcraft hand fabricated (work of art) split dump on it that was originally on the R32GTST.

More to the point;

also the TURBO,will a t04e with external gate fit straight on? not goin for a huge power diff,

A T04E, doesn't fit straight on, especially with an external wastegate. And if it did it would give you a huge power difference.

looked around but there is no def answer

Of course there is no definitive answer, everybody has different requirements and tastes. In my case doubling the standard power output at the wheels via a highly responsive GCG ball bearing high flowed RB20DET turbo was the perfect choice. In Brad's case, quadrupling the power output via a T04Z suited his requirements.

Take a proper look at what everybody is running and why they chose it and I bet you will find a combination that suites your requirements.

Cheers

Gary

Since fitting the new dump and cat we went on the Qld cruise and general running around including two trips up Henri Robert, a total of 510ks for 57.5 litres. Thats about 11.3L/100.

  • 4 weeks later...

ok although everyone has different turbo setups,could everyone/anyone post what turbo you have and if it bolted up directly,if so what dump pipe did you use etc,will be looking at turbo in next couple of weeks,with minor work needed,thanks everyone

GCG hiflow of standard turbo bolts straight on. (230-270rwkw)

HKS GT-RS bolts straight on. (230-270rwkw)

are the most likely bolt on turbo choices.

there are so many choices depending on your power target/requirements including HKS 2835 ProS or HKS 3037ProS kits but each increase in power level = more $$'s

a search of forced induction will show these threads come up a zillion times and the answers are pretty much always the same.

I use the 3" JJ bellmouth for my Series 1 Rsv4 1997 auto awd rb25det Stagea http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/JJ...RB-t204414.html

great value, and Ive heard the bellmouth flange weld has been fixed and is better (3yrs ago mine needed a $100 job to relweld up the flange properly)

fits no issue (apart what I had, above, almost 3years ago), is stainless steel and after 30-odd months looks new still.

fitted standard 3" R33 hi-flow cat converter, new oygen sensor, and the 3" cat back system I already had (cut off 3" Fujistubo muffler and welded on sraight thru kakimoto gtr muffler)

used stock turbo, now using stock highflowed Slide turbo

ppl in front and behind in yesterdays stagea cruise commented on the induction noise (k&n pod in Maxx r34 airbox with foam internal insulation, stock snorkel, bass junkey rad.air-guide, return feed apexi fmic)

I personally think its the steel wheels and massively ported front/rear stock housings :(:D

so besides those hks and other very expensive turbo's,there are no known others that are a direct fit?? why are brand new turbos so cheap on ebay?? and yes i know if i want a good one i should expect to pay good money but i am only after a new turbo rather than massive power,as long as its a little better than stock... :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • perhaps i should have mentioned, I plugged the unit in before i handed over to the electronics repair shop to see what damaged had been caused and the unit worked (ac controls, rear demister etc) bar the lights behind the lcd. i would assume that the diode was only to control lighting and didnt harm anything else i got the unit back from the electronics repair shop and all is well (to a point). The lights are back on and ac controls are working. im still paranoid as i beleive the repairer just put in any zener diode he could find and admitted asking chatgpt if its compatible   i do however have another issue... sometimes when i turn the ignition on, the climate control unit now goes through a diagnostics procedure which normally occurs when you disconnect and reconnect but this may be due to the below   to top everything off, and feel free to shoot me as im just about to do it myself anyway, while i was checking the newly repaired board by plugging in the climate control unit bare without the housing, i believe i may have shorted it on the headunit surround. Climate control unit still works but now the keyless entry doesnt work along with the dome light not turning on when you open the door. to add to this tricky situation, when you start the car and remove the key ( i have a turbo timer so car remains on) the keyless entry works. the dome light also works when you switch to the on position. fuses were checked and all ok ive deduced that the short somehow has messed with the smart entry control module as that is what controls the keyless entry and dome light on door opening   you guys wouldnt happen to have any experience with that topic lmao... im only laughing as its all i can do right now my self diagnosed adhd always gets me in a situation as i have no patience and want to get everything done in shortest amount of time as possible often ignoring crucial steps such as disconnecting battery when stuffing around with electronics or even placing a simple rag over the metallic headunit surround when placing a live pcb board on top of it   FML
    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
×
×
  • Create New...