Jump to content
SAU Community

Just Jap Parts/turbo


stagpower
 Share

Recommended Posts

hey people i have been looking at the dump pipes and high flow cats on just jap forum,does anyone know what will go on my stag without mods(or very little) is it a r33 split dump??, only have the fmic and 3'' from cat cat back.

also the TURBO,will a t04e with external gate fit straight on? not goin for a huge power diff,just new turbo,what fits,looked around but there is no def answer.if i decide to keep car what stainless manifold would fit and different turbo,if i can find these out i might keep my car :dry:

if there is something to go straight on please let me know,or let me know what has to be done,thanks

Edited by stagpower
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I got a bell mouth JJ dump,R33 I think and anX Force Hi Flow Cat, perfect fit with no mods.

All bolts and gaskets supplied.

sorry,so of the 3dumps they have advertised,which is it?? thanks for info

Link to comment
Share on other sites

sorry,so of the 3dumps they have advertised,which is it?? thanks for info

Got links to these 3 dumps?

I've got a T3/T4 turbo I'm getting rid of. Bolts straight on, but is oil cooled only.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The split dump in the first link will not fit, it hits the floor due to being a straight run of pipe

The bell mouth in the second link, which is a direct copy or the same as a x-force pipe will fit

The x-force are $330-350, The JJR one is $199 and good value. Just hope they have sorted their flange to turbo warp problems out with these new pipes.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

G`Day all having just read this i must add,I have fitted bellmouth dump pipe to my series 2 & would say that they DON`T fit we ended up cutting it throw the gut`s & rewelding it as it hit`s the body now some one will say who fitted it is hopeless well he work`s for a performance shop & build rollcage`s & fab`s lot`s of stuff for motorsport, zrost for lot`s of different car`s ,he said this is the best way to do it unless your be rooting around for age`s.IT has made a great difference to the car & would tell any one to get a 3in bellmouth dump,i drove to kalgoolie on saturday & back the same day,& found that fuel econemy is much better 10ltr per 100kms at 140 + most of the time so yes very pleased with my mod 3in till bend then 4in with rsr rear muffler,it has made a big difference to the way the car performes.hope this will help some of you .cheer`s chuckie.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Darrin,

As I have the JJ model, could you expand on your comments please.

When I went thru the dump pipe fitment drama's, search for old thread. the split dump that I bought was not well made, it was warped 3 different ways due to the flange materail being too thin, but was told they were working on fixing the problems.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

When I went thru the dump pipe fitment drama's, search for old thread. the split dump that I bought was not well made, it was warped 3 different ways due to the flange materail being too thin, but was told they were working on fixing the problems.

Thanks Darrin, I'm fine then, mine is a singgle Bell Mouth. Incidently on the cruise last Sunday I was down to about 13l/100

That is 3l/100 less than before I fitted the dump and X Force.

I'm wondering about going 4" cat back without a resonator"?" and a bigish cannon. But it may be a bit noisy.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The R33GTST Group Buy split dump fitted perfectly on mine, which has a Magic cat and a modified Nismo R32GTR 3" exhaust. I ended up using that particular split dump on the R33GTST and the Stagea now has a Performance Metalcraft hand fabricated (work of art) split dump on it that was originally on the R32GTST.

More to the point;

also the TURBO,will a t04e with external gate fit straight on? not goin for a huge power diff,

A T04E, doesn't fit straight on, especially with an external wastegate. And if it did it would give you a huge power difference.

looked around but there is no def answer

Of course there is no definitive answer, everybody has different requirements and tastes. In my case doubling the standard power output at the wheels via a highly responsive GCG ball bearing high flowed RB20DET turbo was the perfect choice. In Brad's case, quadrupling the power output via a T04Z suited his requirements.

Take a proper look at what everybody is running and why they chose it and I bet you will find a combination that suites your requirements.

Cheers

Gary

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Since fitting the new dump and cat we went on the Qld cruise and general running around including two trips up Henri Robert, a total of 510ks for 57.5 litres. Thats about 11.3L/100.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

ok although everyone has different turbo setups,could everyone/anyone post what turbo you have and if it bolted up directly,if so what dump pipe did you use etc,will be looking at turbo in next couple of weeks,with minor work needed,thanks everyone

Link to comment
Share on other sites

GCG hiflow of standard turbo bolts straight on. (230-270rwkw)

HKS GT-RS bolts straight on. (230-270rwkw)

are the most likely bolt on turbo choices.

there are so many choices depending on your power target/requirements including HKS 2835 ProS or HKS 3037ProS kits but each increase in power level = more $$'s

a search of forced induction will show these threads come up a zillion times and the answers are pretty much always the same.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I use the 3" JJ bellmouth for my Series 1 Rsv4 1997 auto awd rb25det Stagea http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/JJ...RB-t204414.html

great value, and Ive heard the bellmouth flange weld has been fixed and is better (3yrs ago mine needed a $100 job to relweld up the flange properly)

fits no issue (apart what I had, above, almost 3years ago), is stainless steel and after 30-odd months looks new still.

fitted standard 3" R33 hi-flow cat converter, new oygen sensor, and the 3" cat back system I already had (cut off 3" Fujistubo muffler and welded on sraight thru kakimoto gtr muffler)

used stock turbo, now using stock highflowed Slide turbo

ppl in front and behind in yesterdays stagea cruise commented on the induction noise (k&n pod in Maxx r34 airbox with foam internal insulation, stock snorkel, bass junkey rad.air-guide, return feed apexi fmic)

I personally think its the steel wheels and massively ported front/rear stock housings :(:D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

so besides those hks and other very expensive turbo's,there are no known others that are a direct fit?? why are brand new turbos so cheap on ebay?? and yes i know if i want a good one i should expect to pay good money but i am only after a new turbo rather than massive power,as long as its a little better than stock... :D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For sure, bromance with common shit box interests.
    • People like Johnny Dose Bro might be laughing at my post because I accidentally added 100mm to my numbers. 350-355 is indeed the lower limit. 450 is off-road Skyline spec.
    • What is the "compromise" that you think will happen? Are you thinking that something will get damaged? The only things you have to be concerned about with spherical jointed suspension arms are; Arguments with the constabulary wrt their legality (they are likely to be illegal for road use without an engineering certificatation, and that may not be possible to obtain). A lot more NVH transmitted through to the passengers (which is hardly a concern for those with a preference for good handling, anyway). Greatly increased inspection and maintenance requirements (see above points, both).   It is extremely necessary to ask what car you are talking about. Your discussion on strut tops, for example, would be completely wrong for an R chassis, but be correct for an S chassis. R32s have specific problems that R33/4 do not have. Etc. I have hardened rubber bushes on upper rear control arms and traction rods. Adjustable length so as to be able to set both camber and bump steer. You cannot contemplate doing just the control arms and not the traction arms. And whatever bushing you have in one you should have in the other so that they have similar characteristics. Otherwise you can get increased oddness of behaviour as one bushing flexes and the other doesn't, changing the alignment between them. I have stock lower rear arms with urethane bushes. I may make changes here, these are are driven by the R32's geometry problems, so I won't discuss them here unless it proves necessary. I have spherical joints in the front caster rods. I have experienced absolutely no negatives and only positives from doing so. They are massively better than any other option. I have sphericals in the FUCAs, but this is driven largely by the (again) R32 specific problems with the motion of those arms. I just have to deal with the increased maintenance required. Given how much better the front end behaves with the sphericals in there.....I'd probably be tempted to go away from my preference (which is not to have sphericals on a road car, for 2 of the 3 reasons in the bulleted list above), just to gain those improvements. And so my preference for not using sphericals (in general) on a road car should be obvious. I use them judiciously, though, as required to solve particular problems.
    • Aren't we already on one? SAU unforgettable bromance.
    • Easiest way to know is to break out the multimeter and measure it when cold, then measure all the resistances again once it gets hot enough to misfire. Both the original ignitor and the J Replace version. Factory service manual will have the spec for the terminal measurements.
×
×
  • Create New...