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Quick few questions

Tracing an AN2 Voltage error on the IAT Sensor, the sensor is reading negative temperatures for fractions of a second and then returning to normal, this appears to be linked to my break down issue.

Will trace the cabling and check the sensor voltage as well, any tips on what to set the multimetre at for this? Also just wondering my car also appears to be running a bit hot as well, getting up to 95c on the standard radiator, and this isn't flogging the car either. Running thermo fans, just wondering is it possible my IAT issue is effecting when the thermo fans cut in (controlled by ecu)

thanks (this is on the v44 plugin board ecu)

I would like to hear an update on this IAT vs problematic coolant temp, that coolant temp is very high,

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Its great they have finally made every in and out configurable to suit what WE want.... unlike the old days with the G1's etc where , this output is thermofan ...... and thermofan only (or whatever if your happy with the triggering conditions they dictated)

I look forward to the day you can have an option for advanced tuners to be able to enter boolean tables etc , so ANYTHING is possible.... not just what they dream up.....

ie you need 5 conditions met to turn on an aux out.... but they only give you 3 ...

Another words, whatever weird combo you can dream up, you can do simply (!!) by writing the formula...... not selecting drop down boxes which locks you into what they offer only.

Yes i know its probably rare for 90% of tuners... but im sure some of you guys have had situations where you could have done something cool if only the options were there to utilise the in/outs you had spare.

Gary

Oh and while im typing.. got a problem i wonder if any of you guys have sorted out.... if not i'll ask LINK to change in an update

Ok, say you want to keep using the MAP sensor in the engine bay connected to the old MAF plug.

Now this comes in on AN4 .... The problem i have is this

If i want to use the ext map, i have two options.... i can call the int map GP Pressure and call AN4 MAP , and link 2.5Bar

That way the fuel table sees the AN4 MAP.... If there both named MAP, it picks the first one, ie internal one.

The problem i have is i think they need to have MAP(MAIN) and MAP(GENERAL PURPOSE) in the select list.... Be abit easier.

The drama is that if you select GP Pressure, that you can only select a CAL table, not just select from the map sensor type list as well....(ie link 2.5 bar)

Am i missing something ?

Gary

this thread makes me wanna look into the Vi-pec more... as i have one in my R33 GTS-T but to be honest i have no clue exactly what it has changed... well except gets rid of you AFM stock restictors and makes the car run better... lol

Oh and while im typing.. got a problem i wonder if any of you guys have sorted out.... if not i'll ask LINK to change in an update

Ok, say you want to keep using the MAP sensor in the engine bay connected to the old MAF plug.

Now this comes in on AN4 .... The problem i have is this

If i want to use the ext map, i have two options.... i can call the int map GP Pressure and call AN4 MAP , and link 2.5Bar

That way the fuel table sees the AN4 MAP.... If there both named MAP, it picks the first one, ie internal one.

The problem i have is i think they need to have MAP(MAIN) and MAP(GENERAL PURPOSE) in the select list.... Be abit easier.

The drama is that if you select GP Pressure, that you can only select a CAL table, not just select from the map sensor type list as well....(ie link 2.5 bar)

Am i missing something ?

Gary

if you want to use an external map sensor instead of the internal one just set the internal one to "off" in the software

no the pnp's run the ATTESSA just fine...its the V88 with the TF electronics adaptor that sometimes has an issue (mine and bigmikespec's)

Thats right, but apparantly it has been corrected. I got my V88 and adaptor board very soon after the product release hence a few bugs still in there, Paul the same (hope you're feeling better too, scary!)

Thinking of controlling the 4WD torque split with the V88, I have not run it by my tuner but it could not be that difficult, just a PWM signal straight from the V88 to the ATTESA pump.

Mike

if you want to use an external map sensor instead of the internal one just set the internal one to "off" in the software

Yes i know that Titan, but i want to still use the second map sensor as a general pressure sensor, but it only gives you the choice of a cal table, and it would be good to still be able to select "link 2.5bar" etc

Sorry, it was misleading of me to say MAP(main) and MAP(GP) .... obviously there is only one map..... just be nice to have the same selection list of sensor types as well as a cal table.

Gary

Edited by Fastrotor

For those who have actually tuned a rb25det with the V44 or G4 plugin, when you set up your timing , assuming your CAS bolts are halfway in the slots...

what trigger offset did you end up with ???

Out of the box, it had -82 on mine.

Initially my CAS was rotated far as it could go counter clockwise, and i ended up with around -113 to get the 10deg to match the crank.

I rotated the CAS to halfway in the slots, (was told that is where most are located stock), and ended up with around -96 to achieve correct timing.

I assume this will give me abit of an idea if my cam timing is out a tooth or not compared to others..... (im chasing probs)

Also, new problem.... just went out to car and tried to pull the logs... says it cant connect..... firmware update cant connect either..... PCLINK connects fine though.....

Removed all usb drivers and reinstalled etc and pclink..... same problem. (I did log in and pull on log off today on dyno using mates laptop, so could just be something with mine... just thought id ask incase someone else has similar and worked it out.

Gary

For those who have actually tuned a rb25det with the V44 or G4 plugin, when you set up your timing , assuming your CAS bolts are halfway in the slots...

what trigger offset did you end up with ???

Out of the box, it had -82 on mine.

Initially my CAS was rotated far as it could go counter clockwise, and i ended up with around -113 to get the 10deg to match the crank.

I rotated the CAS to halfway in the slots, (was told that is where most are located stock), and ended up with around -96 to achieve correct timing.

I assume this will give me abit of an idea if my cam timing is out a tooth or not compared to others..... (im chasing probs)

Also, new problem.... just went out to car and tried to pull the logs... says it cant connect..... firmware update cant connect either..... PCLINK connects fine though.....

Removed all usb drivers and reinstalled etc and pclink..... same problem. (I did log in and pull on log off today on dyno using mates laptop, so could just be something with mine... just thought id ask incase someone else has similar and worked it out.

Gary

hey mate

my trigger offset is -95deg and my ECCS wideslot is 23deg.

So whatever number you get for the trigger offset is fine mate, -85 is not a issue.

:)

I just loaded the map and re-checked and mine is -95 also Guilt...... so thats a good confirmation.

I assume your CAS is central in the slots ?

Ok, here is reason i was worried...... on 20psi , i was up to 27 deg timing !

On the GTST link, it was more like 15 deg ..... So it took me abit to realise and try raising timing in the maps to obtain previous numbers.

So that had me scratching my head and rechecking ALOT.

And since the CAS was intially rotated CCW fully, timing out of the box was about 45 when ref was 10 !! No wonder it was so responsive on throttle blip......

Gary

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