Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys, because I'm a bit of a parts whore I have ended up with 2 sets of lowered springs for my V35. Tein S-Tech and Tanabe NF210. I thought it would be interesting to show the difference between them and how these two companys tackle the same task. Both sets sit at the same length when free but the manufactures quote different heights. They also have quite different spring rates.

Does anyone have any opinions or preference to either brand?

Tein (green) lower front 1.2" and rear .9" Spring rates front 6.4 and rear 4.9

Tanabe (red) lower front 1" and rear .6" Spring rates front 5.3 and rear 6

post-4435-1210150277_thumb.jpg

post-4435-1210150301_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/218187-compare-lowered-springs/
Share on other sites

Have you tried both of the bands on you car? Is one smoother / harder than each other? Which on handle better?

I have sat in a GTR with Tein coil overs on stock GTR suspension towers. It was in fact nice smooth ride with the cornering/handling capabilities better than the stock coil overs.

I got Cusco's and I get a damn hard ass ride! LOL!

  • 2 weeks later...

in my opinon, why put springs that are only 1inch lower?

is it worth the hastle.

Personally if your going to the hastle of pulling your suspension apart and incresing the stiffness of your springs you would want the pay off of having your car riding alot lower. Changing the springs for harder ones that aren't really much lower would be a bit point less. (for me anyways)

Like Z33's, V35's and M35'S have different movement and leverage ratios front to rear. Particularly the rear where the springs are located inboard on the lower control arms, separate from the shocks which are mounted closer to the wheels. So you can't simply compare the front and rear spring rates. The effective (what the tyre and chassis feels) springs rate calculations are;

Tein (green) lower front 1.2" and rear .9" Spring rates front 6.4 (effective = 4 kg/mm) and rear 4.9 (2 kg/mm) Are you sure these aren't the wrong way around (front 4.9 and rear 6.4)?

Tanabe (red) lower front 1" and rear .6" Spring rates front 5.3 (effective 3.5 kg/mm) and rear 6 (2.5 kg/mm). That's much more sensible.

Based on the above I would prefer the Tanabes over the Teins. Not saying the Tanabes are any good, just that their springs rates are better than the Teins.

To avoid confusion with the R32/33/34 which have very different suspension layouts to the V35, I suggest you post further questions in the V35 specific section.

Cheers

Gary

  • 3 months later...

Sorry that I haven't seen this thread till now...

My son has an R33 GTR and installed the Tein springs. At speed, they are extremely good with rates suiting all kinds of undulations and mild bumps. At low speeds as a street car, the suspension then seems hard, jiggly & jittery.

My R34 GTR has had Tanabe springs installed. They're a progressive spring and they seem to take everyday roads with ease in conjunction with existing shocks and damping. There are no sudden bumps or jiggles with these. At speed, the car feels just as planted on the road as the R33 with Teins.

I know I have to take into account that these are two different cars w.r.t. slight oversteer on one Vs neutral on the other but...

Personally I prefer the Tanabes eh?

Thanks for the thread! :blink:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...