Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I hit a fence post on purpose once.. in my first car, well it was my sisters car (we had to share it) and she was annoying me, so i reveresed into the pole in her car :D Wouldnt call it a pole either.. more a cement slab, knocked it clean over too. Was quite proud of that..

On other note, least its not too bad, easy fix!

  • Replies 46
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

My missus recently reversed the 4WD out of the carport.............I tried to explain to her that its easier if you raise the door first with the little white button............AAMI were really good with the claim

ahh thats horse sh*t..maybe get scandyflick to do his thing to it to make it better...lol like what he did to my car at SMASA shown shine :thumbsup: lol

lol, unfortunately that can only make a car awesome by association :), cant fix front bars.

ahww.. sorry to hear about the accident. i know how it feels... i've done pretty much the same thing while ago.... it was heart breaking. got it all fixed now though. got the car back a couple of days before.

Good luck with fixing it up. make you feel much better when fixed up, but much poorer in your pocket if you go to a crach repairer.

My missus recently reversed the 4WD out of the carport.............I tried to explain to her that its easier if you raise the door first with the little white button............AAMI were really good with the claim

HAHAhaahah thats gold pete!!

Sorry to hear cara... I am sure most of us have done something similar... I know I have.

lol, unfortunately that can only make a car awesome by association :D , cant fix front bars.

yer but u could have done the decent thing and cleaned up the mess i now have stains on my rear bumber lol

thats diirrtttyyy :P

ive never hit anything since i got the car (other than the scraping underneath the front bar) ive had people hit me (twice) so i definetly feel a bit silly that its been over a year and a half and only now it happens lol

oh wells we took the front bar off last night, came off easier than what i thought it would which is good and put the stock one back one looks a little weird right now but gonna have to get used to it cause its gona stay like that for the next couple of months so we can work on the front bar and fix a heap of things on it (and strengthen a few spots on it)

gonna look a bit weird fully kitted car with stock front bar on lol

that'll make a matching pair :w00t:

those who have seen the ute lately wil know what i mean hahahaha

ah, the old fence post.................done the same before, and its annoying, but at least its fixable

Ah bugger, lucky it wasnt worse. could have scrapped the door and guard and would cost more to fix.

yeah we were a bit worried about that cause when we were putting the stock bar back on, the passengers side isnt fitting right, but we have just assumed that its because the front bar has flared out a little since being in storage and that there is nothing wrong with the front guard (there are no scratches anything like that on there)

but yes it would have defintly cost more if i had hit the front guard....even thought we are doing the fibreglassing repairs our selves, the cost of getting the front bar resprayed is about 300 alone. but i guess thats better than 600-700 that it could be if a panel beater did all the repairs.....

i just think at least we will try and fix all the little stress fractures in the front bar and make it look like new again :P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There's plenty of OEM steering arms that are bolted on. Not in the same fashion/orientation as that one, to be sure, but still. Examples of what I'm thinking of would use holes like the ones that have the downward facing studs on the GTR uprights (down the bottom end, under the driveshaft opening, near the lower balljoint) and bolt a steering arm on using only 2 bolts that would be somewhat similarly in shear as these you're complainig about. I reckon old Holdens did that, and I've never seen a broken one of those.
    • Let's be honest, most of the people designing parts like the above, aren't engineers. Sometimes they come from disciplines that gives them more qualitative feel for design than quantitive, however, plenty of them have just picked up a license to Fusion and started making things. And that's the honest part about the majority of these guys making parts like that, they don't have huge R&D teams and heaps of time or experience working out the numbers on it. Shit, most smaller teams that do have real engineers still roll with "yeah, it should be okay, and does the job, let's make them and just see"...   The smaller guys like KiwiCNC, aren't the likes of Bosch etc with proper engineering procedures, and oversights, and sign off. As such, it's why they can produce a product to market a lot quicker, but it always comes back to, question it all.   I'm still not a fan of that bolt on piece. Why not just machine it all in one go? With the right design it's possible. The only reason I can see is if they want different heights/length for the tie rod to bolt to. And if they have the cncs themselves,they can easily offer that exact feature, and just machine it all in one go. 
    • The roof is wrapped
    • This is how I last did this when I had a master cylinder fail and introduce air. Bleed before first stage, go oh shit through first stage, bleed at end of first stage, go oh shit through second stage, bleed at end of second stage, go oh shit through third stage, bleed at end of third stage, go oh shit through fourth stage, bleed at lunch, go oh shit through fifth stage, bleed at end of fifth stage, go oh shit through sixth stage....you get the idea. It did come good in the end. My Topdon scan tool can bleed the HY51 and V37, but it doesn't have a consult connector and I don't have an R34 to check that on. I think finding a tool in an Australian workshop other than Nissan that can bleed an R34 will be like rocking horse poo. No way will a generic ODB tool do it.
    • Hmm. Perhaps not the same engineers. The OE Nissan engineers did not forsee a future with spacers pushing the tie rod force application further away from the steering arm and creating that torque. The failures are happening since the advent of those things, and some 30 years after they designed the uprights. So latent casting deficiencies, 30+ yrs of wear and tear, + unexpected usage could quite easily = unforeseen failure. Meanwhile, the engineers who are designing the billet CNC or fabricated uprights are also designing, for the same parts makers, the correction tie rod ends. And they are designing and building these with motorsport (or, at the very least, the meth addled antics of drifters) in mind. So I would hope (in fact, I would expect) that their design work included the offset of that steering force. Doesn't mean that it is not totally valid to ask the question of them, before committing $$.
×
×
  • Create New...