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Downshift Or Coast In Neutral When Coming To Stop Light?

Phatboy
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madbung Grand Master

madbung

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Heavy Duty Organic clutch kit (240rwkw), $335

Heavy Duty 5 Puk Button clutch kit (300rwkw) , $439

Heavy Duty Cushion Button clutch kit (260rwkw) , $445

Exedy (SC) Cerametallic 3 Puk Button clutch kit (330rwkw), $610

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ch...us-t200652.html

From sliding performance, all are far better than a stock Nissan clutch... and at a far more reasonable price.

All Sliding's advertised prices are around what I'd generally pay elsewhere.

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Hibino Community Regular

Hibino

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I really don't think it's gonna fry your pads or make your gearbox/clutch explode if you do it either way...

If it did it would probably take eleventy billion years.

Or better yet, don't change gears or brake at all... or turn your car on because it puts wear and tear on it...

Fear mongering I think.

turbo_brian Community Regular

turbo_brian

Posted
Posted
If it's wet I put the clutch in and rip the handbrake on then hold the car at a 45 degree angle as I approach the lights. Tyres don't wear in the wet,

LOL!!!!

I know your taking the p1ss, but something quite sad is there are people that get out in the rain and do their burnouts, not because the car is just so sh1t it cant spin in the dry (that's only 1/4 of the reason) but because they genuinely believe they are NOT wearing tires out, because tires dont wear if it's wet.

There ARE sad people around.

Back on Topic, I use the gears to slow me down, it's how I was shown to drive, and I feel I have control over the car, if something comes up and I suddenly need to accelerate, I am in gear and I just put the foot on the correct pedal, no shuffling for gears, having to guess the correct gear, it's already there.

Some of the arguments against backing off in the gears are that the box wasn't designed for reverse power transfer (power from wheels to motor), that replacing brake pads is quicker and cheaper than a clutch/gearbox, etc but there is also the issue of the law requiring that the driver always be 100% in control of the vehicle, and this also includes being in gear when applicable (you can neautral at the traffic lights with the clutch out, but otherwise unless driving changing gears, the vehicle should always have a gear engaged (not that this law is ever policed, but it's another law that's there if the cops are clutching at straws to book someone).

B.

madbung Grand Master

madbung

Posted
Posted
LOL!!!!

I know your taking the p1ss, but something quite sad is there are people that get out in the rain and do their burnouts, not because the car is just so sh1t it cant spin in the dry (that's only 1/4 of the reason) but because they genuinely believe they are NOT wearing tires out, because tires dont wear if it's wet.

There ARE sad people around.

Back on Topic, I use the gears to slow me down, it's how I was shown to drive, and I feel I have control over the car, if something comes up and I suddenly need to accelerate, I am in gear and I just put the foot on the correct pedal, no shuffling for gears, having to guess the correct gear, it's already there.

Some of the arguments against backing off in the gears are that the box wasn't designed for reverse power transfer (power from wheels to motor), that replacing brake pads is quicker and cheaper than a clutch/gearbox, etc but there is also the issue of the law requiring that the driver always be 100% in control of the vehicle, and this also includes being in gear when applicable (you can neautral at the traffic lights with the clutch out, but otherwise unless driving changing gears, the vehicle should always have a gear engaged (not that this law is ever policed, but it's another law that's there if the cops are clutching at straws to book someone).

B.

Haha gold....that's not smoke coming off my tyres man it's evaporating rain causing steam!!

As for the car control neutral issue...that's exactly how I was taught over 20yrs ago. So it must be right :)

some_cs_student Veteran

some_cs_student

Posted
Posted
Probably more chance of warp/hotspots from using the coast/brake method than a combo of gearing and brakes...less load on the brakes = less heatsoak through pads/rotors and calipers.

Lol, heatsoak? When stopping at traffic lights?

I don't see how that could happen on the streets doing normal driving or even spirited driving.

madbung Grand Master

madbung

Posted
Posted
Lol, heatsoak? When stopping at traffic lights?

I don't see how that could happen on the streets doing normal driving or even spirited driving.

I live in the hills, heatsoak isn't hard to achieve...

Done much spirited driving? :P

some_cs_student Veteran

some_cs_student

Posted
Posted
I live in the hills, heatsoak isn't hard to achieve...

Done much spirited driving? :P

Oh ok, I keep forgetting I'm running aftermarket slotted rotors, braided lines, and I don't know what pads I'm running (came with the car from Japan).

Yes I have done spirited driving and a track day at Sandown, the pads last 4 hot laps before they start getting soft on street tyres.

I don't live in the hills but I keep forgetting that when I bought my 'line it wasn't stock in the first place so I'll withdraw that comment, I don't know what stock brakes feel like.

GTS4WD Grand Master

GTS4WD

Posted
Posted

Can I just ask something..

People are saying alot of "staying in control you need to be in gear" and "in case i need to accelerate"..

One question..

When do you ever need to accelerate when there is a red light and cars already stationary at the lights?.. For what reason would you ever want/NEED to accelerate towards a stationary/a red light with cars comming from both left and right sides?

blind_elk Grand Master

blind_elk

Posted
Posted
Can I just ask something..

People are saying alot of "staying in control you need to be in gear" and "in case i need to accelerate"..

One question..

When do you ever need to accelerate when there is a red light and cars already stationary at the lights?.. For what reason would you ever want/NEED to accelerate towards a stationary/a red light with cars comming from both left and right sides?

Some idiot starts reversing out of a drive beside you? Some idiot pulls out from a parking space beside you?

Frankly, what does down-shifting do other than waste fuel on the heel-toe? If you are in a position where you need to stop fairly quickly, you probably don't have time to down-change. If you have plenty of time, friction (in the drive train) will do most of the slowing for you.

Sigem Apprentice

Sigem

Posted
Posted
Yeah, I agree, which is why I coast. As well as the fact that I suck at heel and toeing so when I downshift the car jerks a crapload.

i like to do abit of downshifting or braking in gear then clutching it as i come to a stop, rolling in neutral will fail you your driving test in WA. also when downshifting you dont need to heel toe, i take the foot off the brake for a split sec to rev-match and put it back.

some_cs_student Veteran

some_cs_student

Posted
Posted
Some idiot starts reversing out of a drive beside you? Some idiot pulls out from a parking space beside you?

And you swerve onto the other side of the road into oncoming traffic (with some space there to make it back), you need to accelerate to get back into the LHS of the road before the oncoming traffic hits you but your in neutral and....

Charles89 Grand Master

Charles89

Posted
Posted
i like to do abit of downshifting or braking in gear then clutching it as i come to a stop, rolling in neutral will fail you your driving test in WA.

but to be honest...we are not talking about a driving test here. and the things you do in a driving test, you most likely won't do in day to day driving. for example...having your radio OFF while driving :happy:

star32 Collaborator

star32

Posted
Posted

Just think about what is cheaper at the end of the day, your engine or your brakes.

Engine was designed to accelerate not deccelerate. Even race cars, if they can get around the matter of having to lose all that energy, for the spped theay are normaly doing ( which you dont have slowing down on a red light ) they will not opt to gear down but coast it around the corners. Most drag cars shut down their engines once over the finish line, but that is a slightly more complicated matter, so I will not go there.

Brakes are cheap, use them. You odds of having to avoid anybody doing anything stuppid, at 30 - 40 kph is very small to nonexistent.

:happy:

blind_elk Grand Master

blind_elk

Posted
Posted

Or some young idiot, in a hotted up hoon-mobile, comes around the corner totally out of control. If you can't accelerate and get out of the way, say goodbye to your wheels.

How about a $$$ reason - when you are slowing down with clutch still engaged, the injectors are not working, until revs drop to around 1500. If you clutch in, the engine goes to "idle", and the injectors start working to keep the engine running.

So, coasting into a stop with clutch engaged saves fuel.

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