Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys been looking around on play-asia.com and found that they have some pretty good prices.

My only concern is that some games differ $20 in price and im confused whether there is actually a difference.

Eg : http://www.play-asia.com/paOS-14-71-bp-77-...-en-41-all.html

Look at metal gear solid. There are some ranging from $59-$100

My question is which one do i go for? I know that the playstation is region free for games but do i go for the one that says: Asia, Japan or US. Im guessing US because it would be in english but im not sure

Also would the region the game is from effect the online play in such games as COD 4?

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/219348-play-asia/
Share on other sites

US Versions are normally more expencive. No idea why, maybe taxes? as Play Asia is based in Hong Kong... (I think)

Asia versions are almost always in English, and should say in the description.

Difference in versions... not much... Japanese ver. are normally always in Japanese with some exceptions, Asia ver. are almost always in english (inc. the cover/manual). Always best to check the description of the game, it should say under "Language:"

PS3 Online multiplayer shouldnt be region locked. but it depends on the developers of the game in question. COD4 Online is not region locked.

For example: Mario Strikers (Wii) is region locked for Online Multiplayer... Infact i think a few Wii titles are region locked for Online, but the majority of PS3/360 titles arent...

Edited by SKYLVIA
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/219348-play-asia/#findComment-3871318
Share on other sites

Sorry, PS3.

I was about to purchase them from the PS3 store online the other week when they came out ($15 for the 4 new maps, and double XP points for that weekend) but noticed the note saying it required the certain disc code...Checked my disc and its a different 1 as its US...So chose not to potentially throw $15 away lol.

If someone else has tried it and its worked I'll grab em obviously.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/219348-play-asia/#findComment-3872123
Share on other sites

Just had confirmation, The variety map pack is region locked.

A way you could get around this; Create a US account. this will then give you access to the US PSN. the code you enter from the disc will be accepted, and will be installed onto your PS3. Once installed you will still be able to play with AUS players with the new maps.

P.S. dont quote these steps, i own cod4 on 360, but this theoretically should work. I might be doing this with Resistance, depending on how good online is... (Havent played it yet.)

EDIT: the US PSN trick works :)

If you need help with creating a US PSN ID let me know

Edited by SKYLVIA
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/219348-play-asia/#findComment-3872144
Share on other sites

Hmm, when you said confirmed it worked, do you know of someone who's actually done it?

I set up the account, but there's no way to add funds to the wallet without a Credit card with an American billing address...So I can't buy the map pack through the US account...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/219348-play-asia/#findComment-3875213
Share on other sites

cant you just add a random billing address to the card when setting it up on PSN?

Or does it automatically know that the card isnt from the US?

I'm pretty sure that the billing address has to actually match the card being used, otherwise it won't work...

and as the account is based in the US it doesn't let you change the country when entering the card details

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/219348-play-asia/#findComment-3875939
Share on other sites

argh... damn... well theres two options depending on how desperate you are for Variety Map Pack:

1. Run a search on eBay (America) for Playstation Network Cards (Tickets)

2. Use EntroPay. >Click here for more info<

Ive never used EntroPay before though, so i cant comment.

Thats really annoying though... i didnt know the PSN restrictions were that hardcore... Ive only ever used different accounts for different demo's/video's etc...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/219348-play-asia/#findComment-3876065
Share on other sites

Pretty sure they have made it so unless you have a US credit card you cant get their stuff.

You used to be able to use your credit card until the PSN Shop was updated.

Now you cant even use VISA gift cards or anything.

BTW Japan is the only place you can use the PSN cards at the moment.

So your basically up the creek without the paddel in regards to getting the map pack.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/219348-play-asia/#findComment-3876926
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
    • ECUtalk pages don't mention they support the ABS computer (consult port has more than one CAN), so you might just need a different scan tool. But, I would expect ABS is a different light to the brake warning/handbrake light, do you see an ABS light come on for a few seconds when you turn the key from ACC to IGN? But since you said: I'd have a look at the ABS sensors in the rear hubs to make sure they are not damaged, disconnected etc.
×
×
  • Create New...