Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

yea trust me its not fun hitting poles in ur 32!!

let me kno wat i need and i will see if i got any of it, and help u out

do u still have ur old 32? there may be a few bits that i am interested in in that case. i'll be in touch mate.... i think i saw u put ur msn addy on here, i'll add ya

spot of drifting ey :)

common bent items are LCA, Castor rods and Upper control arm.

if you hit it real hard, then the list is as mentioned above

cool, im hoping the strut was not affected

my money is on lower control arms, caster rods (possibly) and caster rod bracket (weak as piss as they are designed to crumple easily with the crumple zone due). upper control arms can take a big f**king beating, so i doubt they would be bent on such a relatively small impact. Also look at your engine crossmember, if the force is large enough it will bend where the LCA mounts on the crossmember. i would also be surprised if your strut was damaged as the strut is mounted to the UCA which as i mentioned before are tough as fark and rarely bend.

well i went off to Pedders today for my $14 suspension saftey check :) here is the list of things that they reccomend i replace:

* lower control arm

* stub axle

* knuckle (wtf is a knuckle??)

* castor arms

* ball joints

* tie rod ends

* control arm bushes

* rack mount bushes

* wheel bearings

their quote was for $1336 (inc. labor) and they wanted me to source the LCA stub axle and what ever a f**king knuckle is. im not gonna pay that to get my car back on the road...

could i please get reccomendations on where i can source the LCA, stub n knuckle, and a good place to buy the relevant bushes?

cheers in advance guys!

they must mean the steering arm knuckle which is a cast part of the hub arrangement.

yeah that'd make sense. so i'll try z-imports to see if they have anything i need,

can anyone suggest any other places to get my LCA, stub & steering knuckle?

i reckon id get a 2nd opinion,

by the sounds of things, most of that stuff is stuff thats general wear, not from the crash, stuff they probably generically quote to replace on old cars. with the knuckle, i gotta say, i dont exactly see how that would break, especially break without having serious damage to the steering, and as far as i can see they have only mentioned tie rod ends.

but yeh, grab a lower control arm with balljoint in it, chuck it in and take it to another place, take it to a reputable place with deals with imports, uve gotta understand pedders are used to idiots dropping their cars off and picking their car up and paying whatever it costs as they have nfi, so pedders are used to replacing stuff that doesnt really need to be urgently replaced. saying that, control arm bushes, bearings and tie rod ends do go after a while and should be replaced, but im just saying that it may not be urgent stuff and i dont think its necessarily from the crash, my suspension has taken a direct hit to a small wall (about 10" high) at 50k's, the whole side of the car went up in the air and almost rolled, disintegrated my wheel, and my bearings, stub axle, steering knuckle etc were all fine.

oh, btw, pretty sure this is what they mean by the knuckle (bottom right):

DSCN7680-1.jpg

so yeh, cant exactly imagine that breaking under the force of the steering rack, but u never know i guess.

  • 2 weeks later...

well i have a fresh LCA in my car now :) stoked as!!!

i ended up getting help from Kane (who owns eyecandy) top bloke, he came to my place with his mate craig and they swapped the bent bits over in my shed for a fkn unbeleveable price :D im a very happy customer... once I get the phone line fault fixed at my place, and get my intarwebz back i will post pics of the LCA that i gave a durability test :D

i just gotta get a wheel alignment, and im back in the game baby!!!!

i hghly reccomend Kane to help those that either cbf (like me) or arent heaps familiar with fixing cars

what parts did they end up changing over?

only the LCA was bent, so that was all we replaced, attempted wheel alignment confirmed that the side that was fixed is cool.... but it looks like there is something sinister going on in the drivers side now. guys at brighton tyre power reccomend i take it to action suspension, n get them to suss it out... lets hope the chassis aint twisted.

im thinking of getting all adjustable castor n camber arms, and then getting someone to set it up nice

only the LCA was bent, so that was all we replaced, attempted wheel alignment confirmed that the side that was fixed is cool.... but it looks like there is something sinister going on in the drivers side now. guys at brighton tyre power reccomend i take it to action suspension, n get them to suss it out... lets hope the chassis aint twisted.

im thinking of getting all adjustable castor n camber arms, and then getting someone to set it up nice

i havnt heard a bad thing about action, never actually been there but AFAIK they are decent.

well i have a fresh LCA in my car now :) stoked as!!!

i ended up getting help from Kane (who owns eyecandy) top bloke, he came to my place with his mate craig and they swapped the bent bits over in my shed for a fkn unbeleveable price :) im a very happy customer... once I get the phone line fault fixed at my place, and get my intarwebz back i will post pics of the LCA that i gave a durability test :D

i just gotta get a wheel alignment, and im back in the game baby!!!!

i hghly reccomend Kane to help those that either cbf (like me) or arent heaps familiar with fixing cars

Cheers buddy any time we always have a heap of r32/r33 parts either to loan for a defect or to get ya skyline back on the road

we also stock a lot of bodykits

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, yes, every CU on the bus is available via the Consult port, but whether the scanner you are using is capable of talking to the TCU, the ABS/TCS modules, etc etc, is what is at question here. Many of them are only for engine codes. So, if you have one of those, you won't know if the ABS is having a bitch.
    • That's now. R chassis Skylines come from a time when the tolerance in the ADRs was a bit more....slack. My car, on 235/35-17, which is damn near the exact same size as the original 205/55-16, is pretty much bang on correct indicated speed across the whole legal range. That's demonstrated with constant speed run over 5km, and GPS speed. It's just the luck of the draw. My particular speedo head has to be the thing that is "calibrated" that way, because everything else (the diff ratio, the gearbox and the speedo drive**) are all same same as most other Skylines. **OK, so the speedo drive is a Navara unit to drive the R32's cable, not the electronic unit than an R33/4 would normally have with teh same gear on it. Otherwise, I applaud your OCD tendencies, and I would do the same if I needed to.
    • Not too sure, I believe the Nissan consult port does everything? Also just filled up the reservoir to full and the light is still on. The float seems to move up and down fine.
    • The speedo's can be very conservative, when my Mazda NC MX5 speedo is showing 118kph, the GPS, and a calibrated radar.... cop mate.....hits me at around 110kph +/- 1 or 2 kph, and that is on a 215/45 17, stock tyres size is 205/45 17 as well, so weirdly conservative with stock tyre size When my Commodore speedo red 116kph GPS had me at 110kph on 255/40 17, so again conservative Google says manufacturers need to set the speedo from 4 to 10% slower than actual road speed.....for safety.....and compliance  After doing some offset and clearance measurements to see what can fit the NC on 17x8 +40, without guard rolling or rubbing anything at my current ride height, I've decided that when my tyres are toast, I'm going to fit 225/45 17 and see where that gets me IRT actual speed of my speedo and GPS/radar From the online calculator I should be still be doing around 5kph under an actual 110kph when the speedo is showing 110kph My ADHD requires that when I'm doing 110kph on the speedo, that the actual road speed is actually really close to that, and not alot slower And going from 205 to 225 still keeps the car within the %/mm allowable in the NSW vehicle rules and regulations, which is nice, as long as I'm looking at the latest version that is.....LOL https://www.nsw.gov.au/sites/default/files/2021-02/RMS-13.464-Light-vehicle-modifications-Vehicle-Standards-Information-No-6-November-2013.pdf
    • Take the value it measured as, and pick the closest range available that is above the reading on the screen.   Also, no point just testing the coils. Read what has been said again. You need to test all your wiring, everything.
×
×
  • Create New...