Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey

Upgrading turbo again on standard RB20 motor just wanted to know what would be a better option

I can either go with a Apexi AX53B70 or HKS2535 - both turbos in similar condition, for similar price and both come with split stainless dump pipes and braided lines

Anyways its not the cost I am worried about its the better suited turbo for the RB20

I am chasing around 230rwkw and have the following mods;

Apexi Power FC

Apexi AVCR

Blitz Intercooler

HKS adjustable CAM gears

GTR injectors

3" turbo back

BOSCH 040

I have seen a internally standard RB20 making about 230rwkw with the Apexi AX53B70 turbo but not sure on what boost and I'm aware there are a few members with standard RB20s cracking 230rwkw + with the HKS2535 on around 19psi

Anyways, I'm just after a comparison of the two and wondering whats a better suited combination for the RB20 with my supporting modifications

I'm aware the Apexi AX53B70 is rated at 370ps but whats the HKS2535 rated at, I've heard mixed responses

Any advise or past experiences would be appreciated

Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/219678-apexi-ax53b70-or-hks2535/
Share on other sites

abu i believe the apexi is rated at 420hp?? correct me if im wrong...

just rememebr i think the apexi still runs the ceramic rear wheel! so i have read 18psi is max??

with supporting mods they have seen to make 250 on an rb20 so plenty more for u!

as i have the same setup besides cam gears im looking at 220-240kw! but u will prob find the cam gears to help with some response!

good luck with ur choice!

cheers

dont like your current setup? I would try the Apexi turbo myself. The results i have read with them are at least line ball with the 2530, and could be Just be sure you get the right housings, not the P22 etc as that sized housing would be overly laggy,

Also re the 230rwkws, it makes for a quick car. But the lag at 230rwkws isnt too different from the 450hp style turbos that will bag you 250rwkws with just about the same amount of response. You arelady have the injectors etc

I had a AX53B70 P25 on my 25 and made 20psi by 3000rpm and 253rwkw my tuner often commented it was the most responsive turbo he had ever tuned , i would try it but check the exhaust housing around the wastegate hole, they can sometimes crack there

Having a 2535 myself i would say its a good thing...but funnily enough i was thinking of going with the apexi turbo with the rebuilt engine...

From the results i've seen on here they seem to be pretty similar...the 2525 is rated at 340ps from memory...but it probably makes abit more than that...personally i'd take some time and just pick the one which is in better nick...

well driving mine in the last 2 days i have found mine is hitting 10psi but about 4500-5000k which i think is abit high???

any ideas y??

Probably just needs to be tuned but thats still quiet high.. my T04e made 1 bar (14psi) by 4,500rpm and 18psi by around 4,700rpm

You have supporting mods I assume, cooler, turbo back exhaust etc?

I have used 2 Apexi AX53 turbos on my SR20 and had awesome results HOWEVER I have seen many of them failing due to the compressor wheel hitting the front housing and mashing the blades. This happened to both of mine and at least 3 others here in SA and they are unable to be rebuilt as you cannot obtain Apexi parts for them.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It says 300ZX, does that make it an Aus delivered car? Funny how back in the day I just couldn't care less about Z32's and these days I am just in love with them. Back when Nissan was into pushing the envelope. 🤣
    • Hi guys, just after some guidance with an R34 sunroof that has stopped working correctly. It still opens and closes perfectly fine, but it no longer tilts/vents up or down. As a result, the rear of the glass now sags a bit as it drops down slightly in order to retract into the roof, but now it can't pop upwards into a flush position. I’ve probed the pins on the back of the switch connector with a multimeter and it seems like both switches (for open/close and tilt/vent) still work correctly. Any ideas on what it could be, or where I should even start in terms of diagnosing? I'm sure someone's had this issue before but I haven't been able to find anything online relating to this specific issue, most of the issues are with the seals leaking or the motor failing entirely. Thanks in advance!
    • Do you have some data like fuel pressure? It's really hard to say if you're still fighting a fuel system issue at this point. Could be something weird like the FPCM dipping out.
    • Yeah in that case, pulling the dent out. Event a very slight dent can create a lot of work filler-wise and there is a strong chance the panel won't be the factory shape when you are done (as the dent will result in a new high point created somewhere, then everything is brought up to that new high point... but the panel shouldn't be that high if that makes sense).  So you've filled and primed the panel and it is flat, why would you go back and remove the primer and add more filler? 
    • Something else I have been faffing with while the car was off the road is making the AC work. Assuming the car isn't at a thermal limit the idea of having AC while waiting in line to go on track sounds delightful. I have actually been lugging around the weight of the entire system since 2018 when the RB25NEO went in without it working at all.  The main reason was in the first few events before I got around to re-gassing it the rubber hose that runs under the manifold had the factory heat wrap/sleeve fail resulting in this: ~2 years ago I purchased a complete used R32 AC line set but when I finally went to install it the line i needed was different where the expansion section is I found a local place that was able to replace the rubber section and re-crimp. They also added some modern heat sleeve to the hose Tight fit but fingers crossed this is the last physical piece of the puzzle needed
×
×
  • Create New...