Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi all, just checking that the direction that oil flows through an oil filter is from the outside to the inside? particularly on an sr20det?

also when running an oil cooler and filter relo kit you would have the lines organised in directions as follows -

from engine to filter, filter to cooler and cooler to engine, correct? cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/219818-oil-filter-flow-direction/
Share on other sites

as in, would you have the oil going to the cooler first or the filter first, i don't have an oil temperature gauge but ifi did i would want the cooler first as i would have the sensor attached at the oil filter and would want to know my "cooled" oil temperature, but seeing ahow i don't i thought it might make more sense to have the filter first to keep anything out of as much of the lines as possible. or does it just not matter at all

Ah right, sorry didn't bother as Dave answered you :laugh:

I think you'll find ppl always run the filter (and a oilstat if being used) before the cooler.

I know what your saying about temp sender location, but the oil eventually ends up in the sump, which is effectively a wet sumps "reservoir" A sender in the sump would give the hottest temp the oil should ever reach; hence why some ppl prefer that location.

Much of a muchness i think.

i suppose you really would be wanting to monitor how hot the oil is coming out of the engine not how 'cool' (yet still obviously very hot) it is going back in, i don't know why but i had two mechanics tell me that the oil goes into the centre of the filter first and then out of the outside so i hooked my lines up accordingly, but looking at it now it doesn't really matter i suppose

^^ Hrmm all the cars iv worked on have engine oil go into the outer, then out from the center. Time to smack your mechanic :laugh:

EDIT: Found a nice little DIY on SAU HERE for ya.

Any questioning is rendered moot, as you can just have someone keep on eye on both lines, when you crank the car first time; then attach as appropriate.

Edited by GeeTR
i suppose you really would be wanting to monitor how hot the oil is coming out of the engine not how 'cool' (yet still obviously very hot) it is going back in, i don't know why but i had two mechanics tell me that the oil goes into the centre of the filter first and then out of the outside so i hooked my lines up accordingly, but looking at it now it doesn't really matter i suppose

kick your mech in the balls.... that setup will create flow issues and result in near ZERO oil pressure if it has a thermostat like a GREDDY cooler etc

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...