Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 2 months later...
  • 7 months later...

nissan wants from $700-$749 last time i checked

i got a brand new set of KUDOS much cheaper than anywhere i checked (mines S1)

quick delivery and car looks like new now :banana:

and i can say even with stock halogens i can actually see the road and signs , best investment i made so far on my r33

  • 2 weeks later...

LOL I'll give you guys a hint, KEEP AN EYE ON EBAY IN AMERICA.

I picked up a close-to-new pair for $150 USD shipped to me in Sydney ! $50 of that was shipping !! A lot of yank importers do what importers do here, they go to all the wreckers over in Japan and grab lots of parts, stuff it all into containers and ship them back to the US and sell the parts off. The good thing for us is, they dont have many Skylines over there, if any !!

When I came across those lights, the (dumb) seller didnt even know what car they were off, all he knew was they were originally off a Nissan. He listed them with a starting bid of 99cents, the only other people that would buy them are 240SX (200sx / Silvia) owners that use them for a headlight conversion.....and they're mostly after series one lights as the shape is more suited for what they want it for.....bloody yanks....wanna-be Skylines.. LOL

Anyways, I have 2 spare pairs of S2 headlights besides the pair currently on the car and neither pair cost me anything over $200 a pair from the states. None of them has any fogginess to them....crystal clear like glass.

So yeah, make a habit of keeping an eye on Ebay over there.

I just keep 'Skyline' , 'GTR' and related searches under FAV SEARCHES in my Ebay profile. Make sure you are on the American Ebay when you save them under that section - otherwise it'll only search in the Oz Ebay. Then I have a browse once every night or two after work. You still have to put in some effort...even for bargains !

As with my other sets, I would much prefer to keep them as spares considering we all know what a b*tch they are to come by. However, my advice is to keep watch as they're beginning to pop up more frequently now compared to a couple of years back, I see them come up on average once or twice a month, the last set I saw on USA EBay about 3 weeks ago went for USD $280 - I was going to do a last second ALL-OUT bid but went out with a chick and totally forgotten about it LOL... shit happens.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Input shaft bearing. They all do it. There is always rollover noise in Nissan boxes - particularly the big box. Don't worry about it unless it gets really growly.
    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
×
×
  • Create New...