Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

im currently looking round for an exhaust for my stock r33 gtst.

havent got any modifications to it, im just about to start them.

first would be the exhaust, which brings me to ask you guys,

are the exhausts they sell at autobarn for the r33 gtst any good? im asking this cos i get autobarn items dirt cheap. would like to get value for my money.

this is not the muffler, it is an actual exhaust, however i dont know if it is from turbo back, or etc.

recommendations???

ta guys.

(next step is probably an intercooler in case anyone needs to know etc)

trent

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/219928-autobarn-exhausts/
Share on other sites

really depends what you are after, loud and "look at me" or bit more timid? dump and 3 inch front pipe, plus hi-flow cat are a must then from there back depends on how loud you want it. What brand is the autobarn stuff?

get any 3" cat back exhaust to suit a skyline then get yourself a BATMBL (bos importing) 3" split dump/frontpipe to match up with the 3" catback system

your local exhaust shop should be able to do you a decent 3" catback system with good flow for around $800 fitted

Yes those DRIFT branded autobarn exhaust are good value, far better that your local exhaust shop jobbie... they come with lifetime warranty etc...

i would not be happy to have the name plastered all over the car if i thought it was shit.

Autobarn can get all the major exhaust's that you would be able to get. Trust, Blitz, HKS (though the HKS ones are a bit hard to get now), Drift, X-Force etc. So it's not so much "Are autobarn exhausts any good" its wether the particular branded exhaust is any good.

thanks for the replies, i wasnt too sure what kind of exhausts they offer, but now seeing everyones replies, got an idea of what they may have now.

might be going for a trust exhaust, maybe hks if i can find them. which brands do u think would offer best performance?

BLITZ nur-r ($1000ish) is the nest performer, the GREDDY PEII ($799) is nice and quiet round town yet opens up under full noise the HKS is just stupid price wise locally so i would forget it.

these prices were accurate when i set them at autobarn head office proir to resigning in december.

  • 2 weeks later...

Hey guys, sorry for the minor hijack, but BATMBL isn't selling the dump/front pipes at the moment (supplier issues), so what would you guys recommend looking at next? I've looked at the JJR's split dumps, are they any good, and what's the diff b/w a split dump and a single? haha too many questions :thumbsup:

Split dump seperates the exhaust gases from the internal wastgate and joins it up near the end of the dump pipe. Should increase spool up and make more power.

All in one, or also called a bellmouth dump pipe, doesn't do this and all the gases just go through the same pipe.

go for a one peice front/dump pipe, its a bellmouth, spools up quicker, and when connected to a decent exhaust

system, they sound great, i picked my mild steel 1 peice up from a local sa supplier for $375.

Split dump seperates the exhaust gases from the internal wastgate and joins it up near the end of the dump pipe. Should increase spool up and make more power.

All in one, or also called a bellmouth dump pipe, doesn't do this and all the gases just go through the same pipe.

go for a one peice front/dump pipe, its a bellmouth, spools up quicker, and when connected to a decent exhaust

system, they sound great, i picked my mild steel 1 peice up from a local sa supplier for $375.

Did you guys basically say the opposite of each other :D or am i reading it wrong? LOL

Did you guys basically say the opposite of each other :D or am i reading it wrong? LOL

On a stock turbo the split dump pipes are better, they are ment to make more power. However on most aftermarket turbos the split dumps cause overboosting problems (mine did) and most people then go a bellmouth style dump.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...