To Buy/to Do List

[AndyD]

As i wait for my stag to come from japan i am reading every part of this forum and TRYING to absorb all of the info within it,firstly there is alot of info about the rb25 but not so much on the neo. Ive started to jot down some ideas on the mods and path this car will take once it gets here but what i need is NEO specifics. I will be aiming for around 200-230awkw the info i am chasing is safe limits not breaking points of hardware within the NEO engine so i can get a better idea of what is going to need to be replaced i'll try make it simple format so you can answer easier if i can have answer in safe limit KW not breaking points would be great.

1.Standard neo turbo

2.injectors

3.fuel pump

4.manifolds

5.pistons/rods

Any thing else that may hinder my target that i haven't mentioned keep in mind that the car already has fmic,pod and exaust and as far as i know the rest is stock i will assume anyway.

[Demoniak]

the stag engine is the same as the r34 one ( series 2)

So check out the performance section there.

but yeah, the usuals you would have to do.

make it breath better ( seems you got most apart from actual management of it).

People have said that the SAFC 2 & Neo are fine with an AVCR or a PFC (one controller vs many seperate thing)

Fuel pump harder ( bigger pump and injector) - you wont need 650 for 200-250aw - maybe a 300+ for both pump and jectors

then turbo.

but when you change the turbo is when you dump around 5-10k on the engine.. woot woot

[AndyD]

So r u saying that all i will need is fuel pump and injectors to get my target figure will the stock turbo flow enough to get it there and at what psi

[pork hunt drifting]

So r u saying that all i will need is fuel pump and injectors to get my target figure will the stock turbo flow enough to get it there and at what psi

i'm not a brainiac on these engines but i dont think the stock turbo will handle 230awkw and be reliable in standard form.

if youre not happy with round 180awkw then as demoniak said change turbo and be preped to spend 5 - 10 k

but im sure someone will prove me wrong?

good luck with it though, im in same boat still tryn to find a potential combo.

[Tangles]

fuel pump, bosch 040 $200

nismo adjustable fuel pressure regulator $160

good oil + filter + new fuel filter $140

exhaust adjustable cam gear pulley wheel $200

turbo-back hi-flow 3" exhaust $1000

fmic with kit $500

k&n panel air filter $100

safc neo $400

sitc (2nd hand ebay) $250

bleed valve $50

fitting and tuning, priceless

there is what you'd need for 180awkw from the Neo engine at 12psi on stock turbo and stock injectors

add injectors $700

add gcg hiflow turbo $2000

add full stock computer remap at DrDrift or the likes $1300

plus etc etc etc, such as gearbox (manual - duno, auto - shift kit from MV Autos), brakes, suspensiion, etc etc etc

[pork hunt drifting]

so round $3000 that aint bad

i no theres heaps of fmic threads but what cooler r u pricing for $500 with kit?

[Tangles]

well, you can buy a piping kit off ebay for 120

I got that from the states ebay, and the apexi return-feed hybrid (50% bar&plate 50% tube&fin) for $400 off ebay japan.

i know there are kits out there, chinese cores and pipe kit for 500 to suit 'Lines

up to you'se how you do it and how much you spend

so yeah 3k minimum for parts, probably say 500+ more for quality exhaust/fmic components

then there is the fitting, and the tuning. fit yourself and get dyno'd $500, get fitted and dynoed at the 1 place 1500+

add brakes, maltech braided lines + front dba slotted rotors, pads 1500

add sk suspension kit, balanced etc 2500

easily reaches 8-9k like that for 160-180awkw, and another 4 to 5k for 230awkw

estimates, a bit rough, but its just the basics:

brakes, suspension, intake, cooling, exhaust, fueling, tuning etc

meh, thats what Ive done anyways. S1 or S2 doesnt really matter, just that youve got different injectors and a better stock turbo. 180awkw is achievable on stock turbo, but probably 13psi which is on the limit....

[Tangles]

here's a list for my series 1, just to help out if anyone is interested

Car was 18k 3years ago, best price in Australia by 2k, and the only Dayz one I saw. fell in love

spend 14k on parts (fitting, servicing & tuning), will be 15k at the end once ecumod Im doing is finalised and have ~210awkw

Dayz special edition series 1 Stagea RS V Four

96500kms, automatic, RB25DET engine, Attessa 4wd

1997 model silky snow pearl, lives in southern Adelaide

Engine:

RB25DET, auto, awd, 180akw

New Oxygen sensor

New 400amp battery

New fuel filter, new oil filter, fresh Motul 10/40w Turbolite engine oil, 0.8mm copper v-gruve sparkies

Fresh fluid throughout, 100,000km service done (new water pump, belts, all fluids, exhaust studs etc)

Davies Craig automatic transmission oil cooler upgrade kit

MV Automatic shift kit & auto service kit

Koyo Radiator upgrade

Splitfire coil packs

Bosch 040 fuel pump with direct battery feed at 13.8volts

Aerospeed adjustable exhaust cam gear pulley wheel

Greddy remote oil filter relocation kit

Nismo adjustable fuel pressure regulator

Nissan Z32 Air Flow Meter

3inch JustJap stainless steel single dump pipe system (turbo to cat)

3inch Catco high flow catalytic converter

3inch cat-back exhaust system with GTR Kakimoto racing free flow muffler

K&N pod filter

Cold Air Induction aluminium box w/ lid setup, foam internals, using standard snorkel air feed

Cold Air Radiator air guide (feeds radiator / pod / intercooler)

Apexi 'Hybrid' front mount intercooler, tube & fin and bar & plate, with custom return air feed pipe kit

Apexi boost gauge

Apexi SAFC Super Air Fuel Computer

Apexi SITC Super Ignition Timing Computer

Hybrid dual stage Electronic Boost Controller, set to 1bar

Sliding Performance water/oil cooled 360degree bush bearing HiFlow Turbocharger

Rated 250rwkw@1Bar, 1yr old 6000kms perfect condition. Easy stable 1.1bar

Suspension:

Bilstein front and rear suspension shocks, with ‘lowering’ circlips, using standard springs

Whiteline front and rear adjustable swaybars

Dayz adjustable engine swaybar

Whiteline front castor kit

Whiteline rear subframe alignment kit

R34 GTT 17inch rims with Hankook K104 Vetus tyres, 235/45/17

Brakes:

Maltech stainless steel braided brake lines, front and rear

DBA slotted front brake discs

Benidx Advance front and Heavy Duty rear brake pads

Audio:

Clarion stereo tape unit with 6-stack cd player

Clarion amp

Clarion 10inch subwoofer

Pioneer 260w 4-way front door speakers

Eclipse 80w 2-way rear door speakers

Razin volt stabiliser kit

Black Widow 10000 car alarm

Soon to be fitted:

HKS heavy duty turbo actuator

new 0.8mm copper sparkies, oil & filters

Ecu remap chip install, reset safc/sitc to suit, dyno tune for 200kw

SAFC:

Safc settings, on hi-throttle are:

1000 rpm + 21%

1600 rpm + 29%

2200 rpm + 44%

2800 rpm + 46%

3400 rpm + 49%

4000 rpm + 49%

4600 rpm + 46%

5200 rpm + 36%

5800 rpm + 38%

6400 rpm + 35%

7000 rpm + 35%

7600 rpm + 35%

Safc settings, on lo-throttle are:

1000 rpm + 1%

1600 rpm + 21%

2200 rpm + 26%

2800 rpm + 31%

3400 rpm + 42%

4000 rpm + 44%

4600 rpm + 46%

5200 rpm + 47%

5800 rpm + 45%

6400 rpm + 44%

7000 rpm + 42%

7600 rpm + 42%

Th-point settings are:

Lo 19%

Hi 20%

SITC:

800rpm = 0

2,400rpm = +1

4,000rpm = +3

5,600rpm = +4

7,200 rpm = +4

190rwkw but knocking at top end 5500rpm+, re-dynoed for 183rwkw no knock

[AndyD]

Ok thanx for the help boys car already has HKS fmic,exhaust,pod and tein fully adjustable suspension dunno on the electronics side of it as yet have to wait to paperwork clears to access to it for more photo's. Basicly i was wanting to know if the turbo would flow that much and obviously it doesn't so my to do list will be fuel pump and injectors and see where that puts me then turbo later. Will gtr injectors and fuel pump fit in the NEO i will assume not but i can only ask. And as for brakes i see there is a thread for front brakes but nothing for the rear so does that mean the rears are already good enough or nobody has bothered to do them. What is easier to fit GTR or r33 GTST brakes my old man is pretty handy with the spanners just dont need headaches thats all. Oh and tangles why only the exhaust cam wheel wouldnt doing both inlet and exhaust be more effeicient

Edited May 23, 2008 by AndyD

[KiwiRS4T]

Ok thanx for the help boys car already has HKS fmic,exhaust,pod and tein fully adjustable suspension dunno on the electronics side of it as yet have to wait to paperwork clears to access to it for more photo's. Basicly i was wanting to know if the turbo would flow that much and obviously it doesn't so my to do list will be fuel pump and injectors and see where that puts me then turbo later. Will gtr injectors and fuel pump fit in the NEO i will assume not but i can only ask. And as for brakes i see there is a thread for front brakes but nothing for the rear so does that mean the rears are already good enough or nobody has bothered to do them. What is easier to fit GTR or r33 GTST brakes my old man is pretty handy with the spanners just dont need headaches thats all. Oh and tangles why only the exhaust cam wheel wouldnt doing both inlet and exhaust be more effeicient

You need to upgrade the fuel pump and get a fuel pressure regulator but no need for injector upgrade with the stock turbo. If you still have the stock ECU then it controls the inlet cam and adjustable cam gear will not give a noticeable improvement so exhaust cam gear only.

[wolverine]

adjusting cam gears on neo's is pretty much a waste of time and money. save your money.

standard turbo will run out of puff around the 200-210rwkw mark (+/- 10kw).

don't need new injectors with the standard turbo and almost certainly won't need an adjustable fuel regulator (unless you believe there will be better atomisation or you are trying to work a different part of the standard ecu map).

standard fuel pump should be fine for the standard turbo.

nevertheless it is a cheap upgrade at some point and will ultimately be necessary for your target. look at the drop in replacement nismo pumps as they are cheap nowadays and installation is just a little quicker than a bosch equivalent. if your dad is handy with spanners etc it won't be that hard but nothing beats removing the old fuel pump cradle and dropping in the new one....job done.