Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys i recently swapped my subaru forester for a 99 R34 GTT with a guy in queensland. I am know trying to go thru the process of having it rego'd ( currently has queensland plates) i have changed the exhaust from cannon to stock twin tips, have sourced a standard airbox just has to be fitted but am having some trouble with the wheels.

My mechanic is insiting they have to be engineered ( my wheels) as they are the 17inch wheels from the coupe R34 and not the sixteen inch wheels that come on the sedans...can someone clarify for me if these wheels are legal? as i belived there was some room in regard to tyre fitments and sizes and still stay legal?

I have also been told that since the car is less than ten years old i will have to go to an RTA inspection site!! can someone confirm what the cost involved with this inspection? and weather i would pass with these wheels? This has been such a pain in the ass this blue slip im regretting buying the skyline :bunny:

I have attached a photo of the rims i have on my car (not my car but you get the idea).....if these arent legal does anybody have any legal ones i could borrow for blue slip!!! im in castle hill but will travel almost anywhere in sydney if anybody has any stockies with tread that will pass!!

post-33553-1211521028_thumb.jpg

Edited by beemer395
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/220563-getting-a-blue-slip-in-nsw-help/
Share on other sites

gday mate, i got my 33 from ACT and had the car blue sliped with 17x9's on it and a 3" turbo back zorst (with a 3 chamber muffler in place of the 5" cannon of course)and it was fine, the only thing to guy said was "you might wanna get your rear tires replaced soon",

i agree with the above find a new mechanic.

also with the 10 year old thingy, the RTA told me its 8 years and its random, when you register the car, the computer will randomly select you or not (i was told this because the Rtard who complide my line did it in 2002 so acording to the RTA i have a 2002 R33)

The wheels are legal as they are off the sister car i.e gtt and come as factory standard, same wheel base so same wheels no need to engineer. Yes if you had gtr wheels

The more you slide there way the more they are inclined to pass it

Blue slip is just road worthy crap..

top post there. makes no sense and even if it were correct adds nothing to the thread. :( I don't know why are you so keen on posting unhelpful negative posts all the time lately? :confused:

beemer395, you should not have any problem with wheels that are 1 inch in diameter larger than standard. I am not sure why the mechanic is giving you grief over that. It is perfectly legal to have wheels upgraded that are just a 1 inch increase. It's an owner certifiable modification.

The RTA inspection is randomly selected and they will tell you if you have to do it or not when you go into the RTA to get your rego. If you do get selected you wont be able to complete your rego on that day and will have to book the inspection at the RTA centre. from memory it costs about $30 and don't stress about the wheels etc for that inspection as it's primarily an identity check to ensure the car is not a rebirth, or stolen etc. I have presented my cars there previously with minor mods like exhaust, larger wheels, pod filter etc and had no problems ever. It takes about 30 mins.

If you do get selected and the appointment is not for a while you can ask for an interim label so they will give you plates and a temporary 30 day rego label so you can legally drive around until the inspection.

top post there. makes no sense and even if it were correct adds nothing to the thread. :D I don't know why are you so keen on posting unhelpful negative posts all the time lately? :confused:

beemer395, you should not have any problem with wheels that are 1 inch in diameter larger than standard. I am not sure why the mechanic is giving you grief over that. It is perfectly legal to have wheels upgraded that are just a 1 inch increase. It's an owner certifiable modification.

The RTA inspection is randomly selected and they will tell you if you have to do it or not when you go into the RTA to get your rego. If you do get selected you wont be able to complete your rego on that day and will have to book the inspection at the RTA centre. from memory it costs about $30 and don't stress about the wheels etc for that inspection as it's primarily an identity check to ensure the car is not a rebirth, or stolen etc. I have presented my cars there previously with minor mods like exhaust, larger wheels, pod filter etc and had no problems ever. It takes about 30 mins.

If you do get selected and the appointment is not for a while you can ask for an interim label so they will give you plates and a temporary 30 day rego label so you can legally drive around until the inspection.

Thanks beer baron...its just been a total pain in the ass as i dnt have original import papers (awaiting from department) and as my mechanic hasnt sighted the import papers he wont sign off on it...total BS in my opinion and as it was a friday and most places being open half days saturday's left me in a total jam. I hope to get it all sorted this week thought.

  • 1 year later...

Where you at, there is a place on Heathcoate Rd, Moorebank that does them, alot of garages do, just cruise you local shops would be the easiest I recon, They advertise it on there ads and signage, look for imports or Hi Po cars in them.

As long as you do it right and tick all the saftey boxes you shouldnt have problems, plumb back your BOV, tune it for emmisions, have a good Cat and make sure it isnt to loud.

  • 6 months later...
I know someone man, based on Northern Beaches. Let me know if you run out of options.

sorry to dig up an old dug up thread.

I'm on the beaches and I'm looking for a "lenient" guy to do a blue slip on my 31.

there's nothing too wrong with it just tasteful mods i.e lowered a bit, 1" larger rims stuff like that. the main problem i have is my ignition system is a button ignition and not a key one. will this pass or will i have to put a new barrell on?

  • 12 years later...

So im in similar situation so im abt to buy a really nice Holden astra 2008 hatchback now the guy lost his licence so he cancelled his rego I rang the rta n they said I have to get a blue slip now the cars in perfect condition only problem is its got 19inch rims will this be able to pass can someone point me to a mechanic that will pass this car it's completely road worthy 

Screenshot_20221021-151315_Gumtree.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
×
×
  • Create New...