Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey Guys,

I have a 1990 R32. My speedo all of a sudden dropped out, and my hicas light has come on and the power steering is heavy. when you first drive the car for the first 5-10 mins all is good, steering is fine, then the light comes on and the steering becomes heavy. i have checked power steering fluid and topped that up. Just wondering if anyone knows what the problem may be....... the speedo esp is rather annoying!

Cheers!

Pammy <Queen R32>

Sounds like you've snapped the little needle on the end of the speedo cable where it goes into the back of the dash.

Exactly the same symptoms as when mine snapped. You can get a new one from Nissan but I can't remember how much it cost, don't think it was too outrageous though :P

Sounds like you've snapped the little needle on the end of the speedo cable where it goes into the back of the dash.

Exactly the same symptoms as when mine snapped. You can get a new one from Nissan but I can't remember how much it cost, don't think it was too outrageous though :P

Thanks for that!!!!! And would that make the hicas light come on and the power steering not work properly? If i were to call nissan and ask them for the needle on the end of the speedo cable that goes in the back of dash will they know what im on about? haha

Thanks heaps!!!!!!

Also, do you nkow where io would go to get it installed?

Thanks for that!!!!! And would that make the hicas light come on and the power steering not work properly? If i were to call nissan and ask them for the needle on the end of the speedo cable that goes in the back of dash will they know what im on about? haha

Thanks heaps!!!!!!

Also, do you nkow where io would go to get it installed?

Basically the HICAS light is coming on because the HICAS ECU is throwing up an error due to lack of signal (it gets a road speed signal from the speedo which then sends it to the ECU). Our cars also have speed sensitive steering which kicks in at about 80kmh (light steering for low speed and parking etc, heavy steering for high speed etc), if it doesn't get a road speed signal or a steering angle signal, after a few minutes it will throw up an error and your steering will go heavy.

Unfortunately you can't just buy the needle as it is integral with the cable so you need to get a whole speedo cable. Head to Northside Nissan and specify the year and model of your car and they should be able to sort you out, when I got mine they had one in stock so it was all good..

Any competent mechanic who knows skylines should be able to do it. I did mine myself when I put the 25 box and 280kmh dash in.

Good luck :P

Spot on! Cable broken.

Mr Keets R32 had the same problem last week. New cable, all fixed.

Northside is the palce to get it, probably cost around 120-130ish. It will take about an hour to install.

Good Luck

  • 2 months later...
Basically the HICAS light is coming on because the HICAS ECU is throwing up an error due to lack of signal (it gets a road speed signal from the speedo which then sends it to the ECU). Our cars also have speed sensitive steering which kicks in at about 80kmh (light steering for low speed and parking etc, heavy steering for high speed etc), if it doesn't get a road speed signal or a steering angle signal, after a few minutes it will throw up an error and your steering will go heavy.

Unfortunately you can't just buy the needle as it is integral with the cable so you need to get a whole speedo cable. Head to Northside Nissan and specify the year and model of your car and they should be able to sort you out, when I got mine they had one in stock so it was all good..

Any competent mechanic who knows skylines should be able to do it. I did mine myself when I put the 25 box and 280kmh dash in.

Good luck :O

Hi, I'm having this same problem too.I've tried many times to reassemble the speedometer to the cable but the needle either doesn't contact properly with the meter or the internal part of the cable sank in.Do you have any idea how to secure the needle to the cable? There's also a spring inside the needle..it dropped out initially but I put it back, still won't work.Please help!

Edited by EJD

just one thing though northside nissan only stocks the GTR cables you can use them but they are too long you have to get the GTS-t one ordereed in, i got the gtr one and it works but doesn't look very good under the car

Hmm that explains why my cable is so long.. I was changing gearboxes at the time so just assumed it was a difference in the boxes..

You can get them to order you the right cable though.

Edited by bubba

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...