Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Do you think its possible to build an r33 gtr that will do 10sec 1/4mile @ 140mph on pump fuel?

Im trying to get some info for a friend whose looking at building a new car that will go 10sec or quicker yet run 140mph or close to it all on 98 pump gas.

So far he is looking at the 2.8l stroker, usual mods, head work cams, proper fuel set up. Turbo he is looking at the new turbonetics GTK1000.

I know its abit of a hows it going question but any information would be help full. Those who have run 10sec passes could you list your mods and times and mph.

Thanks

h

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/220953-10sec-14-mile-140mph-r33-gtr/
Share on other sites

Bobbo here in WA ran 10.2 at 122mph with T76.

The low MPH is because he missed 5th gear and coasted across the line.

The car had 672rwhp and was running a T88-34D with a HKS 2.8L and HKS H-Pattern Dog Box (pump fuel, no NOS).

he hasnt got much aCCess to c16 or so. I know tens in a GTR is doable how ever, what about say hi 9s at 140mph? for some reason his goal is to hit 140mph down the 1/4 on pump fuel at what ever quickest time.

i run high 9's on Sunoco fuel @ 139.6MPH...but im holding the car in 3rd gear so i dont MPH quicker, 9100rpm in 3rd = 139 MPH

this not only affects MPH but obviously the ET as well.

reason for this is i have no parachute and dont wish to be logged by ANDRA stewards for breaking 140

Cars engine is so efficient it only produces 30 more KW on Sunoco than with BP98..so the statement that "race fuel unlocks HEAPS more power" is not correct, it depends how efficient or inefficient the engine is. A less efficient engine will see more of an increase with race fuel. Race fuel in more efficient engines is generally run for safety and a bit of tuning "headroom" (this is the only reason we run sunoco).

so with parachute fitted and pulling 4th gear with pump fuel id say its more than possible to run 9's @ 140 on pump.

Edited by DiRTgarage

How much more ignition timing do you run from BP to sunoco? when i tried BP to Elf turbo max i could easily run 15 degrees more. As you would know simply switching to race fuel does nothing, but gives you the opportunity gain the extra power.

Edited by GTR1993
How much more ignition timing do you run from BP to sunoco? when i tried BP to Elf turbo max i could easily run 15 degrees more. As you would know simply switching to race fuel does nothing, but gives you the opportunity gain the extra power.

wont quote our timing figures but only ever run up to 6 deg more on race fuel.

we still make massive power and run the numbers at the track for the set-up we have.

Also have only ever broken 1 engine (oil pump failure) and that was due to over revving and ignition cut rev limiter....not tuning

Edited by DiRTgarage

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • No, code 21 is very straightforward. It can only be the things described in that diagnostic flow. In fact it has no way of knowing that the spark plug resistance is out of spec.
    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
×
×
  • Create New...