Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 69
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

The plugs can be any brand?

But most used are NGK?

Waiting for shops to open and hoping the rain holds off.

So, 2 options comments have given me:

BCPR6ES 0.8

BKR6E 0.8

Whats the difference?

Edited by Owgasm

Well,

All fitted, everything back together.

Tried to start it up, same problem.

But this time, i think i may have found the problem.

While tightening with the allen key, i dropped it into a small gap and while i was getting it out, the injector rail was starring right back at me, all injectors were a bit dusty and dry except one which looked like it had petrol running from it. Didn't really think about it, then got the allen key out, then had a closer look at the 5th injector.

Got the keys, tried to start it up.

No luck, went back and checked the injector, definitly petrol coming out of it and it was hissing, a leak.

Could this be the solution?

Loss of pressure/loss of fuel?

Also, with this problem, will it be just the o ring or the injector itself?

Edited by Owgasm

I'd expect the engine to at least start and run on only 5. Might be a bit WReXxy, but should still run.

But it's not a good sign to have fuel leaking from an injector. Should get them checked out. Best case, it can be repaired, and all 6 can be cleaned and flowed. Worst case, 6 new injectors on the shopping list.

Yeah, i'm still unsure why it didn't start, but i pulled the injectors out while i was at it and the o ring on the 5th was split.

New O-rings for all 6 and see how it is from there.

I still don't think this will be the solution, but i hope it will be.

Btw, anyone know what size the o rings are for the injectors?

Edited by Owgasm

Forget the timing belt if everything sounds normal when your cranking it. If it was broken you would know about it! I had a feeling fouled up plugs wouldnt stop a modern day EFI engine from firing and at least running rough. The injector leak will just be that o-ring but as you mentioned i also doubt it will be the actual cause of no start, just rough running. Make sure when you refit the injectors you put some vaseline on the o-rings to spot them from getting cut.

So next off you should check that you actually have spark like i previously mentioned on page one. Also think back to last time you had it running, did you do anything to the car? Anything at all.. the smallest thing you may not even take into account could be the culprit :thumbsup:

Good luck mate

Deren

Edited by Godzilla32

Yeah, i don't think theres anything wrong with the timing belt.

Everything sounds to be smooth. Just doesn't fire.

Yeah, i should have checked the spark while i was at it but am not 100% sure on how to do it. So was hoping that the spark plugs were dead.

The last time it was running, it was reveresed down a hill and driven back up, a few times like this to clean the rotors and just give it a bit of flow through the engine.

Next step to check for the spark.

Are there step directions in the forums?

Thanks for helping everyone.

Esp, Daren.

Edited by Owgasm
Next step to check for the spark.

Are there step directions in the forums?

Thanks for helping everyone.

Esp, Daren.

Buy yourself a spark plug lead, plug 1 end of lead to coil pack, other end to your spark plug, then ground the thread of the spark plug on the block, or the massive hook usually on a motor, then have a friend turn the engine over, you should see a nice blue or white spark from the plug.

For the injectors, there is a plug you can buy, which you plug onto the injector lead and again have a friend turn the engine over, and the plug has an LED in it, which will light up if there is any voltage through the lead (if the injector lead is presenting a pulse).

For the injector plug, you need to immobilise the motor from firing and possibly starting, reason is, with an injector unplugged, if the engine does fire, you will farily quickly roast your cylinder from the spark plug firing.

B.

hi, I had the exact same problem. I have a r32 gtr and I don't get the opportunity to drive it much at all. I take my car for a quick blat around the street then park it up. I do this once a week if i can, a bit like your self. Sometimes i had to jumpstart the car to get it started .

Then 1 weekend i went to drive it and it wouldn't start so i jumped it no joy then tried to push start it still no joy.

Then i checked to see if it was getting fuel to the injectors cause i heard the fuel pump like yourself, but no, I was getting fuel.

I checked spark that was all good to.

I even replaced the spark plugs and coil packs just to be sure.

In between checking I had changed the battery three times with 3 known good ones this still didn't start my car.

In the end I ran out of ideas and put the car on a trailer and sent it to my local tuner he fixed it in 2 mins flat it was the f@!#ing battery. He put a brand new one in and it started first go. To this day I still do not understand why my car didn't sart with the other batteries because they all started my other cars fine. (all had 12v)

Hope this helps.

""Pull a plug out (check plug condition while your there) and connect it into the coil while also earth it on the head next to the spark plug hole. Easiest way to do this is to get a HT lead and connect one end to the coil where the spark plug normally goes and the other end to the top of the spark plug."" - From Deren

Ok. This is what i read:

1. Pull the first spark plug out.

2. Take the coil off and plug it onto the spark plug with the cables all still connected to the coil.

3. (not so clear about this part) - Hold the spark plug while its touching the head (anywhere?).

4. Get someone to try to start the car and watch for a spark

Is this right?

The fuel i am sure is in the rail as i could see it bubbling trying to exit through the injector seal.

Someone said on the forums, that i only need to check the first? If the first is sparking, the rest will aswell.

Edited by Owgasm

Yeah thats pretty much right, most likely if one is firing the rest will be and you will at least be getting a splutter when you try to start it. Best not to hold the coil while your cranking it as you can get a bit of a shock from the ignition system :) Just rest it down next to the spark plug hole and shade the area so you can see the spark if there is one. Like i said if you need a hand im happy to help :)

Deren

Perfect.

Yeah, thanks for the help :P

Will let you know if i need help. But your description sounds easy enough.

Anyone know the size of the o ring on the injector?

I don't want to match it up, i want exact size when i go to a supplier.

Where do you get them from? Nut and bolt store? i've gotten them once but can't remember where it was.

Cheers.

DOES IT ACTUALLY SOUND OK when cranking it over??? I cant hear it!

Anyway, what about CAS, is that goosed.

IMO.. it would at least kick if even on a few cylinders if it were the plugs!!..

Why is everyone so completely sure its the plugs that are the root cause.. just by the info I can glean from all this, there has only been speculation about plugs.. which, to be honest are pretty damn reliable in this century.

Lets just sit back a little here, and work the problem...

Not firing...

Is there an immobiliser fitted?

Is there gas in the tank?

Is there 1 meagre spark from one of the coils, or any of them,, simply unscrew it, hang a plug out of it and see?

Just basic starters, then work from there... or is this real?

Battery would not be the cause, mine has cranked... and fired on a very low charge, so much so it even amazed me.

QED.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
×
×
  • Create New...