Jump to content
SAU Community

Bodykit - Spray / Fitting / Modifying Quote ???


Recommended Posts

Well finaly i've saved up enough to get my bodykit installed but I have afew questions that maybe some of you can help answer.

Im getting all the work done at a place local to me called 'Kingswood Kustom'. The owner there (Mark) has done mechanical work on my previous 2 cars over the last 4 years. Its pretty much a 1 owner + 1 trainee type business with nothing really flashy or fancy. For all mechanical work i've previously had done (many $1000's) the job has always been done at a decent price, sure sometimes it'll take an extra hour or I might have to stand around for 10mins until he can serve me (stuck under a car or something) but I guess in the end the job is done. He sorta has the attitude of 'if i do it spot on the first time i wont see u again' type guy.

What I plan on getting done is:

* Nismo 400R Sideskirts painted and fitted

* Nismo 400R Rear bar + side pods painted and fitted

* GTR Rear Wing painted and fitted (with carbon blade)

= $1000

First of all does that seem a reasonable price???

I haven't been to any other body shops or rung anyone else etc (wouldn't have a clue where I could even get it done anywhere else). So the quote he has given me im just sorta "yeah ok no worries" type attitude.

Now while he has all the paint mixed and ready to go (he said around ~$135/L to buy/mix so he doesnt want to waste any) I was thinking of getting some work done to my standard M-Spec front bar.

t8.jpg

Now for an extra $500 (Not forgetting that an aftermarket front bar is about $650 fitted) I can get done:

* Cold air box (bought from UAS 7mths ago) fitted with ducting down to the corner of the front bar

* Center bracket where the number plate is attached completely cut out and removed to allow better airflow to the FMIC

* Mesh the bottom part of the front bar to make it look neat n tidy

* FMIC aligned to the center of the bar (its currently about 1 inch off center to the left up close

* Front bar re-sprayed

The questions I have are:

* Can anyone recommend local places (Western Sydney) where I can go for a quote or further ideas ?

* Does the first quote seem reasonable ?

* Does the second quote seem reasonable ?

* Will the small corner gap in my front bar allow sufficient are into my pod box partition ?

* Should I get mesh put infront of the FMIC to cover it up (stop stones loose dogs etc damaging the fmic) or will this effect airflow -too- much?

Thats all for now....

PS. If your thinking about putting a bodykit on your car dont bother. For the same price as the bodykit cost me to buy/paint/fit I coulda had a set of 17" tyres n mags + a PowerFC. It will be all worth it in the end though I think.

Catch up??? What's that biatch? I already have 17's and a PFC...

doesnt matter if you make more power than me....hell, it wasn't even on the same friggin dyn.....oh wait......um...never mind....

ROFL!!!!!

I got more stickers so I am cooler than you....!!!

/me runs and hides behind something.....ANYTHING!!!

what is the contact for these places that make kits .. i still haven't found anyone who can supply me with a 400r rear bar yet besides unique autosports ... dammit i want that one but its a bit pricey ... jetspeed i've heard too many bad things about them so i don't want to get one from them ... where are u getting urs from??

Leaving the front bar as the standard M-Spec bar.

Fitting and painted is an extra $1000 ontop of that $1800.

Although instead of getting this done next week i'm getting my brakes fixed + upgraded instead (prefer safety over looks).

Front pads

Rear Pads

Caliper overhaul front n back

Calipers, rotors, suspension painted black

Front Braided lines

~$1300

So the bodykit will be put on in around 2-3mths.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • ..this is the current state of that port. I appreciate the info help (and the link to the Earls thing @Duncan). Though going by that it seems like 1/4 then BSP'ing it and using a bush may work. I don't know where I'd be remote mounting the pressure sender... to... exactly. I assume the idea here is that any vibration is taken up by the semiflexible/flexible hose itself instead of it leveraging against the block directly. I want to believe a stronger, steel bush/adapter would work, but I don't know if that is engineeringly sound or just wishful thinking given the stupendous implications of a leak/failure in this spot. What are the real world risks of dissimilar metals here? It's a 6061 Aluminum block, and I'm talking brass or steel or SS adapters/things.
    • And if you have to drill the oil block, then just drill it for 1/4" and tap it BSP and get a 1/8 to 1/4 BSP bush. The Nissan sender will go straight in and the bush will suit the newly tapped hole. And it will be real strong, to boot.
    • No it doesn't. It just needs an ezy-out to pull that broken bit of alloy out of the hole and presto chango - it will be back to being a 1/8" hole tapped NPT. as per @MBS206 recco. That would be for making what you had in alloy, in steel. If you wanted to do just that instead of remote mounting like @Duncan and I have been pushing. A steel fitting would be unbreakable (compared to that tragically skinny little alloy adapter). But remote mounting would almost certainly be 10x better. Small engineering shops abound all over the place. A lathe and 10 minutes of time = 2x six packs.
    • Ahh. Well the block damage is a problem, you really need to run a tap or thread chaser through it to see if the threads can be saved, but any chips are likely to be bottom end bound which is bad. Earls seem to have what you need if you want to stick with mounting direct on the block: https://rceperformance.com.au/parts/earls-straight-adapter-1-8-npt-male-to-1-8-bspt-female.html, but as I said above I'd recommend remote mounting the sender
    • I'm not quite understanding or I'm missing steps here, (I appreciate people are trying to inform my brain but I am of the dumb, especially today) - All I want to do is mount the male BSPT of the OEM sender into the system somewhere without it snapping the adapter via vibration. The Nissan sender has a male 1/8 BSPT output. The block has a (very destroyed) 1/8 NPT input. I'm not really sure how a lathe assists with that, and also don't know anybody with a lathe, nor specifically what I would want to buy. I'm not really sure how adding additional adapters creates a better, more leak proof resilient seal here.
×
×
  • Create New...