Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

For only 300-350awkw you wont need the extra displacement for response, it is possible to have that kind of power with small aftermarket twins and still be responsive as hell.

However yes it will help. Keep in mind though, for a 2.8L or a RB30 bottem end your looking at anywhere from $5000-$10000 depending on what exactly you want to do.

Once you factor in fuel system, turbo (or turbos), ECU, Tomei 2.8 kit ($6000 approx), exhaust, piping, machining, balancing, gaskets, labour, tuning etc etc it starts to add up really quick....

Get the car inspected by someone who can tell you...

-what injectors are fitted.

-what turbo's are fitted.

-if there was an after market engine management ever fitted.

Besides this..check spark plugs for uneven burn..check radiator for bad colouring..check engine oil level and change ASAP.

Replace timing belt...fuel pump..and all oils including diff..gearbox...

Oil pump means engine out..so plan to do engine work at the same time

You will find some good advice on here on the good oils to use.

Also save some pennies for new Turbo's...that is if you don't want engine work earlier.

This above items will determine you next steps on making it more reliable as a day to day car.

After all of the above has been addressed...save some pennies for a clutch...before 3 Month of driving...

if you still have a stock clutch....you will be loosing grip.

Jim Berry Clutches.....he will rebuild you stock clutch...do not throw it away.

Also keep your exhaust..if it is stock that is.

Keep you suspension as well..GTR suspensions are great on the road.....you may just need new shocks at a latter date.

Hope I have been of some help.

So when they talking about balancer or balancing the engine they only mean the part like, ati or ross brand balancer?

each of the reciprocating components is individually weighed and any irregularities are adjusted (by removing material from the heavier ones) the crank is mounted on a balancing machine and spun to measure any problem areas. Material is then removed from it to make it operate true.

each of the reciprocating components is individually weighed and any irregularities are adjusted (by removing material from the heavier ones) the crank is mounted on a balancing machine and spun to measure any problem areas. Material is then removed from it to make it operate true.

Engine out....

New oil pump

New Balancer.

Allow 4K

Maybe a new crank..depending on it condition.

Allow 1K

When motor is out...new Turbo's a must....to difficult when motor is in.

Allow another 3K

GTR's cost money...

Plan your mods.....take it step by step.....

Allow for miss...items......

Crank...lol.....that will be the least of your worries.... :D

awesome, you guys are great, i wont feel like a complete noob when i go to a local tuner(just a small noob :) )

those 3 guages that come over the audio system are they really needed after i buy some ones that are needed for upping the boost? because my car didnt come with them, has some ugly audio system in its place

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You Gregged a whole racetrack!?
    • Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
    • 310mm rotors will be avilable from Australia, Japan, and probably a few other places. Nothing for the front can be put on the back.
×
×
  • Create New...