Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

I also had problems with my HICAS with the light coming on after start up but would go away when you turn ignition off then on again once car warmed up. This occurred around 6 months ago. In the last 2 month the HICAS light would suddenly come on during driving and the steering would go heavy. Any who, it ended up being the HICAS control module. I replaced a leaking capacitor and cleaned up all the corrosive liquid on the PCB. Car is a 93 R33 gts-t.

Hope this helps..

hey..

my hicas light comes on after driving along the highway for any more then about 5-10mins.. doesnt go off until car is turned off. but normal around town type driving it never comes on.. also when its on after driving on hughway the steering doesnt seem to change at all..

any ideas?

Do you have an after market steering wheel?

Have you tried the diagnostics?

Can you replicate the problem every time you are on the highway?

yes i have a "personal" brand steering wheel..

nothing shows on diagnostics..

yes problem happens everytime without fail..

Edited by 02_FNE

It maybe your steering wheel that is causing the problem. Not sure what type of angle sensor used but since the control module is not showing an error code the problem may only be minor. Has this light come up ever since you had the steering wheel replaced?

It maybe your steering wheel that is causing the problem. Not sure what type of angle sensor used but since the control module is not showing an error code the problem may only be minor. Has this light come up ever since you had the steering wheel replaced?

not sure mate, i got the car with this steering wheel already in it.. as far as my memory recalls its always done it..

i thought it was strange that it doesnt seem to change the actual steering at all..

my understanding is that that brand of steering wheel is a nissan owned company or brand or something along those lines..

There are a few threads on this site that talks about the HICAS light coming up after steering wheel/BOSS has been replaced. I think they also say that it only comes up after long straight driving as is done on the highways. The problem in your car should be easily sorted as the symptom is easily replicated.

Buy!

  • 2 months later...
  • 1 month later...
hey ummm i have a question

my HICAS lights turns on

EVERTYTIME , at the exact distance of 10km or so of driving

i time it the spot where i usually go to work n back home

it always turns on at the same area.

so what's wrong with it?

HICAS isn't really a major problem is it?

cheers.

SAME HERE! no idea what it is though? the diagnostic never works for me. i'm assuming it's the steering angle sensor because i can't enter the diagnostic. i'd assume the steering angle sensor is what puts it in diagnostic mode with the left right turns and the brake pumping. when you exceed 80 k's does your steering wheel turn one way slightly and then correct itself when you go back below 80? mine does. until the light comes on. then it stops...

SAME HERE! no idea what it is though? the diagnostic never works for me. i'm assuming it's the steering angle sensor because i can't enter the diagnostic. i'd assume the steering angle sensor is what puts it in diagnostic mode with the left right turns and the brake pumping. when you exceed 80 k's does your steering wheel turn one way slightly and then correct itself when you go back below 80? mine does. until the light comes on. then it stops...

Steering wheel 'rolling over' at speed (increasing as speeds pass 60kph) is what happened on my car when the steering angle sensor was mis-aligned with the wheels.

If you cant answer the diagnostic mode at all - sounds like your steering angle sensor isn't working though. Do you have an aftermarket boss? Nissan dealers with CONSULT should be able to get into the HICAS diagnostics and pinpoint exactly what's wrong (that's what I did).

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

i did the test on my r32 gtr and i got 4 quick short pulses followed by the hicas light staing on for afew seconds...

then after that i kept my car on and still in the diagnostic mode, and it did 4 quick pulses followed by the hicas light staying on for a few seconds

what did it pick up as been the fault ??

the hicas is giving me the shits i need to sort this out ASAP !!!

hope someone can help me !

thanks

someone have a look at my thread and see if you can offer any advice. much appreciated.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Hi...ng-t312556.html

i'm thinking hicas ecu may be faulty. it has the trademark 3 capacitors with a very slight stain below them that may indicate some previous leakage.

Edited by Munkyb0y
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 5 months later...
  • 4 weeks later...
Steering wheel 'rolling over' at speed (increasing as speeds pass 60kph) is what happened on my car when the steering angle sensor was mis-aligned with the wheels.

If you cant answer the diagnostic mode at all - sounds like your steering angle sensor isn't working though. Do you have an aftermarket boss? Nissan dealers with CONSULT should be able to get into the HICAS diagnostics and pinpoint exactly what's wrong (that's what I did).

Must be a different problem with mine.. it has had the problem since i bought the car (with standard steering wheel) and still has it with my after market one..

might be a dodge connection somewhere..

  • 1 month later...
My problem, which I've had no luck in getting anyone to know what I'm on about:

Sometimes when I turn on my car (not all the time, it didn't do it for around 3 weeks but now it's about every third time I turn it on), the HICAS light stays on. Solid. The whole time it's on, it feels like I have no power steering, eg. the wheel is sluggish and hard to turn.

I've checked fluids. That's all fine there.

I've got a MOMO steering wheel, but the HKB boss kit (HKB = HICAS compliant), so there's no problems there. If there was a problem there, it'd be permanent, not just every now and then.

Anyone got any ideas? I'll be performing a diagnostic this weekend, so I guess I'll post up the results of that then rip the car apart till I can find it. Then lock the damn thing down anyway.

Hey all,

Ive got the same problem where once the HICAS light is on the steering becomes very heavy but after I switch of the car and go to switch it on again all my electrics fail there is a wire that got fixed by an R.A.C man and once i move that around the electrics come back on and there is no more HICAS light on this is only recent and is becoming more frequent.

Im not sure whats going on with the car but if anyone knows of any solutions would be greatly appreciated

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
    • Ok, disregard my “rate them” comment, sorry for my unrealistic input
    • OK, now we are ready to get started. You need to remove the air boxes on each side for clearance. The cover is straightforward, undo the clips on the top and lift the front cover out of the rest of the housing. If it is tight you can remove the air filters first. The rear section of the airbox is trickier. On each side you need to remove the Air flow meter wiring which is held to the airbox with a clip; you need to get behind the clip on 2 sides if you want to remove it without breaking it - unclip the harder side and pull on the clip with medium force, then unclip the easier side and it should pop out The airbox is held onto the intake hose with a spring clamp; you need to get a flat bladed screwdriver behind the spring on both sides and pop them outwards. When you have got them in the right unclipped place they will stay there and the airbox slips out pretty freely. Put a rag in the intake to prevent anything getting dropped in there, and also to prevent you seeing that the turbo seal is leaking oil (as they do). Then. The top of the radiator is held by a steel plate, it is secured by 2x10mm and 2x12mm headed bolts . Remove them and remove the plate Also grab the bushings that hold the radiator to the plate on each side so they are not lost!
    • Next, remove the upper and lower radiator hoses, both are held with a spring clamp. While you are under there, tackle the Auto Trans cooler lines.  Again both are held on with spring clamps, and as mentioned above you should cap them on the radiator side with an 8mm cap, and on the car side loop them with a length of 8mm pipe - this will stop you losing a dangerous amount of AT fluid during the rest of the job If you've been meaning to add a sender for AT trans temp, this is a great time to do it; put a sender fitting into the passenger side line as that is the inlet to the cooler/radiator.
    • Next you need to remove the intake duct (as with pretty much every job on these cars), it is a series of clips you gently remove with a flat bladed screwdriver. They do get brittle with time and can break, and I have not found a decent quality aftermarket one that fits (they are all too soft or flimsy and don't last either) but the nissan ones are a couple of bucks each (ouch).  Once the clips are off (either 8 or 10, I didn't check) you lift the intake duct out and will see the reservoirs Undo the line into the radiator side cap (some bent needle nosed piers are awesome for spring clamps) and then remove the 4x 10m nuts that hold both in place.  I didn't get these pics, but remove the line under the radiator reservoir (spring clamp again) then remove that reservoir. Then you can get at the intake reservoir, same thing, spring clamp underneath then remove it. BTW This is a great time to put in a larger (+70%) combined reservoir that AMS makes..... https://www.amsperformance.com/product/q50-q60-red-alpha-coolant-expansion-tank/ They also make an Infiniti branded and part# version if that is your thing
×
×
  • Create New...