Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

HI All

im about to spray my series 1 rear garnish the same colour as my car.. so my question is

what do you all recomend to do to prep the garnish before spraying the primer, do i just use some kero to clean off all the oil and grease or do i

need to sand it back with some wet n dry paper to roughen up the surface a little bit???

Cheers,

Corey

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/222098-plastic-prep/
Share on other sites

HI All

im about to spray my series 1 rear garnish the same colour as my car.. so my question is

what do you all recomend to do to prep the garnish before spraying the primer, do i just use some kero to clean off all the oil and grease or do i

need to sand it back with some wet n dry paper to roughen up the surface a little bit???

Cheers,

Corey

Dont use kero. It will leave an oil residue and the paint wont adhere properly.

I give mine a fine sand with wet and dry, Clean it off with prepsol, then use a plastic primer (available from super cheap in pressure pak cans) then paint it and finally clear coat it.

This system works well and even under the bonnet using non heat proof paints it has stuck well and looks good.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/222098-plastic-prep/#findComment-3914461
Share on other sites

I only use it on black, plastic primer IMO doesnt seem to make it stick any better IMO its what causes the paint to bubble under heat when its closed in a car.. The spray paint can is prob not as good as the 2pak gear pros use.

It gives you a better base coat so black looks better, it also allows you to sand it back so everything is damn smooth so it becomes glassy and shiny but 3 months mine bubbled, twice. last one has not bubbled.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/222098-plastic-prep/#findComment-3916270
Share on other sites

Out of a can? Or spray job? Yes if its a spray job.

Could be a range of things for eg a Knock can cause it.. But if it hasnt been knocked..

Heat - ussually yellows with this tho.

Oil/residue not cleaned off correctly.

Thinner or cleaner splashed onto paint either before or after.

But mainly its due to not corretly premixing the paint, heating the paint in hot water two minutes before will help the mix especially in colder weather (this is of course in spray cans)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/222098-plastic-prep/#findComment-3917905
Share on other sites

Out of a can? Or spray job? Yes if its a spray job.

Could be a range of things for eg a Knock can cause it.. But if it hasnt been knocked..

Heat - ussually yellows with this tho.

Oil/residue not cleaned off correctly.

Thinner or cleaner splashed onto paint either before or after.

But mainly its due to not corretly premixing the paint, heating the paint in hot water two minutes before will help the mix especially in colder weather (this is of course in spray cans)

yes it was premixing acrylic paint with thinner (1 paint:2 thinner - for clear coat), then spraying with gravity fed gun. The thing is it only happens in some areas and appears to be the top layer(clear coat). I mix it by pouring paint and thinner in a bottle, then shaking it to mix for a good minute

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/222098-plastic-prep/#findComment-3917925
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...