Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Not true.

And I am sure you are talking about the series 1.5 front bar.

Yeah that bar did come standard on the 1.5 but i'm pretty sure it was an option on the '94 range of series 1's marketed as the "m-spec front bar"

Although i could have been told evil evil lies!!!

Cheers

Camden

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/222220-m-spec/#findComment-3917924
Share on other sites

I have the R33 Series II factory broacher and price list and the model names are not as simple at they appear.

The turbo coupe versions are:

GTS 25 T Type M (This is the one with the V-Spec active diff and cost 3,567,000 yen)

GTS 25 T Type M Spec II

GTS 25 T Type M Spec I

As I cannot read Japanese I do not understand what the difference is between the Spec II and Spec I models – they even cost the same 3,007,000 yen.

post-24210-1212576619_thumb.jpg

post-24210-1212576642_thumb.jpg

post-24210-1212576665_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/222220-m-spec/#findComment-3918290
Share on other sites

1.5 bar is what you have in your avatar. have a look at pre 95 models to see the original series 1 bar which isnt that nice to look at.

Yeah I know what the series one bar looks like... i don't think you read my post properly..anyway..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/222220-m-spec/#findComment-3918329
Share on other sites

Just to make things a little clearer too there was no factory series 1.5 its just somthing that was applyed to late model series 1 33 gtst's that had some series 2 parts fitted from factory due to the change over from series 1 to 2 (lack of series 1 parts im guessing)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/222220-m-spec/#findComment-3919034
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

old post but here goes, Series 1 is Zenki which means a new model change from R32 and Series 2 is Kouki which means the same old model but beefed up to get them to sell better as it's 1/2 way to it's next new model which is R34. This was what i was told by a Japanese friend. R34 came out in 1999 and R33 was still in production til 1998. To be able to sell the remaining R33 which was produced by Nissan, they had to make a new facelip and new body style (kouki) to actually make people buy them. Even the interors were different from the S1 versions. Engines are same except that the igniter was built in on S2 and external on S1.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/222220-m-spec/#findComment-3969011
Share on other sites

^^^^ s2 r33 was in production for 2+ years they didn't do it to move the last of the production run :) they didn't paint stripes on it and call it a cobra, it's also not whats called an s.v.p (special value pack).

It's a facelift model like a falcon bf mk2 ect.

M-spec have airbags

The M stands for Mummy

The r34 had an N-spec with 2 handbags

The N stands for Nana..

If you could read Japanese you'd know this already :)

Edited by madbung
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/222220-m-spec/#findComment-3969067
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...