Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Lol trust me, that thought has been in my mind for a long time.

The stock cams are back in there at the moment, going back on the dyno this week to see if the power returns to normal, atleast it will give us some indication of whats going on. If it goes back to 260ish kw's i think i might sell the cams and new valve springs and let some one else deal with it haha.

  • Replies 69
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

  • 5 weeks later...
Mine worked out ok. Dropped in a set of regrinds 265/263 picked up power everywhere >2000rpm. Went 302rwkw at 17psi std manifolds gt3076r .82.

Dam u :) Why didn't mine work!

Yeah power went back to the way it was with the standard cams. It has to be something in the head, only thing we didn't touch.

I'm not sure if you have mentioned but I saw you have oversized valves.

Are the install heights correct? Maybe they are off slightly which has reduced seat pressure resulting in valve float once you get some decent cams with higher ramp rate in to it?

When mine was floating I had huge issues with trying to push ignition timing in to it past 4000rpm; it would simply ping.

Sorry bud no can do as it was on the dyno soon realised it needed more work so pulled it off and didn't bother playing with adj. cam gears and finishing it off.

Boost is dropping to 17psi from whatever I push in to it.

It is on an rb30det so they tend to have a little more mid range and super responsive.

3500rpm - 200rwkw

4000rpm - 256rwkw

5000rpm - 288rwkw

6000rpm - 302rwkw

7000rpm - 290rwkw

Cams need playing with as I want peak power up around 6.5k; currently its running a fair bit of overlap which hurts/flattens out the top end.

Realistically there's not much more in it as the stock exh. manifolds typically top out around 300-330rwkw depending on how well everything is working.

Has a couple of things holding it back.. small fmic with 2" piping :S weak/lazy actuator thats blowing open.

An interesting thing i just came across, my mate has a highly modified S15 with hks 256/264 cams in it and when it last got tuned the car was down around 80rwkw, no matter what the tuner did he couldn't find the problem. Checked timing and it was 100% set at the correct TDC marks. He than took it to another tuner and they found that the exhaust cam needed to be 4 degrees retarded and the power returned to normal.... Is it possible that on certain setups, the cams aren't ment to be installed at TDC even though most people do?

Im gonna go talk to this tuner this week and ask how he set up the exhaust cam and why it was 4 degrees out...

post-35676-1212981406_thumb.jpg

having very similar issues my self, i feel your pain.

i pulled everything down and found

when evrey things lined up ( crank sproket to cam pulleys) the harmo lined up on second mark..

when u removed the harmo maybe the key ways fallen out anh harmos not sitting in right place and thats why when u check the timing its way off scale....

that s wat idid....

  • 7 months later...

PM-R33 . yes you are on the money there. Even though they say the cams are drop in you still need to DIAL the cams in to the correct position as the instruction's state.

Yes Iknow they are in jap but you should still be able to work it out.

Make sure the Dial gauge is sitting directly on the hydraulic lifter and not the cam as it will give you a true reading.

Well i have new cams and a new head now. First the cat collapsed and restricted us to 170kw, now with that fixed we are up to 240kw on 20psi. On this boost and head setup we should have easily cracked 270kw. Still trying to find the problem.

Edited by PM-R33
  • 2 weeks later...

Ended up doing low 260kw with good power every where in the rev range. Very happy with it. However it should still make more power and the only red flag we have is the MAP sensor on the Microtech. The internal sensor is a 20psi one, so we can't run more than 20psi. The thing is, when we run 20psi on the boost controller, the boost gauge and the dyno, the Microtech is seeing 25psi and getting a MAP error. So we can't tune for that boost. So in reality, anything over 15psi, the Micoretch sees 20psi and no more tuning available.

So i might send the ECU away and get them to swap it over to the 30psi one and go again, but for the time being i got uni and shit to concentrate on so i'm gonna leave it how it is for now.

Ah ok. Yeah the MT's are a pain when your running close to 20psi .... as i won't let a car go without the map cut enabled, so you need a small leeway before it hits max to use it.

You should measure Turbine Inlet Pressures to see where the GTRS is at, at least give you a easy indication if much more is avail...... might not be worth it until you step up in turbo.

I got 272 rwkw on a 3500 histall auto yesterday, but the 135K std head gasket finally let go. Also the VCT isnt working down low, and killing my boost response.

How did you rate your head work ? I think i'll just get a good head gasket and bolt it all back on. Just weld up the VCT to full advance, and should get bottom end back and im happy with top end.

Gary

I hate to say this but the i think the turbo is going to be the limiting factor in this set up, as the head is now to efficient and i'd imagine that it would run out of steam in the top end. However i have no doubt that this set up has monumental midrange and low end punch. I think to get 290-300rwkw with that turbo would all but be impossible. Have been for a ride in this car when it was running std cams and it was very impressive but even then i could still notice a slight drop off in power delivery towards the top end

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
    • Ok, disregard my “rate them” comment, sorry for my unrealistic input
×
×
  • Create New...