Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

honestly, f**k no. You'll end up going through into the galleries (for lack of a better term) taking that much off.

You'd be better off fitting spacers or r33/34 calipers and rotors

R33/34 calipers are smaller than R32 ?

if i'm gonna put 5mm spacers, do i need longer studs?

cheers

are you talking 5mm off the inside or 5mm off the face?

the r33/34 calipers have a greater offset so you don't need to worry about removing material from the inside.

If you are talking about the front then a 5mm slip on is about the biggest you would consider, and even then it is border line depending on the wheel. You can shave the nissan lettering off to give you another 2-3mm clearance.

are you talking 5mm off the inside or 5mm off the face?

the r33/34 calipers have a greater offset so you don't need to worry about removing material from the inside.

If you are talking about the front then a 5mm slip on is about the biggest you would consider, and even then it is border line depending on the wheel. You can shave the nissan lettering off to give you another 2-3mm clearance.

Hi mate,

what do u mean by "talking 5mm off the inside or 5mm off the face" ?

it's not the "nissan" lettering parts that i need to grind it off.. it's that bit where i circle and i think i need about 2-3mm or 5mm the max

by the way, it's the front calipers that need to be done

Cheers

5mm off the calipers is huge mate. you muight be able to do 1 or 2mm safely.

if you still want to.....give it a go those calipers are cheap to replace. but i think you will get to important inside bits like brake piston within 5mm....

to be honest, i'm not 100% sure how deep i need to grind it back.. hopefully 1-2mm max..

does anyone know if there have perfect fit slip-on spacers? like... 5 x 114.3 hiles and with the centre hub hole that fit on the hubcentric on the car ( so, it have no movement on the spacers) ..

anyway, just keep the inpits coming guys

Cheers

Ford

i'm running 18 x 8.5 +30 ssr sp1's on the front and with a 3mm spacer i'm all good! have had NO hastles with it and still get HEAPS of thread

Hi,

what type of ur slip-on spacers? any vibration while driving high speed? where did u get the 3mm ones, seem to see alot of 5mm and 7mm..

cheers

Best to install some 5mm spacers in my opinion. Getting hub centric spacers will be best. From what I can see in the picture you've just posted, it doesn't look like the wheels are resting on the hubs, but the studs itself. You'll need some hub rings for them to sit on the hubs. Just grinding 2-5mm off the calipers and leaving the wheels as they are is no better than just installing some 3-5mm spacers.

Edit: I also wanted to mention that you can't rely on offsets alone to decide whether or not the wheels will clear the calipers. It's all in the design of the face of the wheel.

Edited by adam-__-

thanks Adam,

does anyone know if i can get the hub centric slip-on type spacers? cause the thinest bolt on hub centric we can get is 15mm!

update: I have the 3mm spacers on and it just just tiny tiny tiny tounch.. so I might need to get the 4mm ones then!

I need someone to make the spacers for my car in 4mm thickness

Cheers

wheel offset is not your problem here, its the disk type...your wheels are probably O disk instead of A. I was faced with this problem ages ago...honestly...get new wheels. Spacers are highly illegal and I don't recommend grinding calipers either.

wheel offset is not your problem here, its the disk type...your wheels are probably O disk instead of A. I was faced with this problem ages ago...honestly...get new wheels. Spacers are highly illegal and I don't recommend grinding calipers either.

can u tell me abit more about O disk and A disk?

cheers

can u tell me abit more about O disk and A disk?

cheers

O disk = low brake caliper clearance

A disk = standard caliper clearance (clears most factory 32,33,34 brakes)

R disk = high caliper clearance (eg: brembos etc...)

Wheels with the same width and offset come in different disk types hence your problem. A lot of ppl have the misconception that just because they had wheels of XX offset before it should fit no problems...

Hope that helps...Like you, I learnt the hard way too..tried slip on spacers, bolt on spacers...considered grinding calipers...in the end if was better to sell them and buy correct wheels to fit. Now everytime I buy 2nd hand wheels I make sure I find out the disk type as this was particularly important especially 34 front brakes.

post-6973-1212833196_thumb.jpg

Edited by n15m0

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Depending on the purpose of the car, and how much more fabbing you want to do, and what clearances you have, you could look to raise the motor, which will raise the front diff up. Likely would mean altering the chassis rails etc etc, hence the more fab work you'd need to do. However, this can create issues, not just in clearance with everything fitting under the bonnet, but you've also raised a LOT of weight up in the car, and this will DEFINITELY alter handling characteristics (But, so will how much weight you've already added to the front end). You'll also have to deal with the fact the gearbox to rear diff is now out of alignment too for the tail shaft, and alter the angle of the diff, or deal with a bit of potential vibration. Raising the motor an inch up, is effectively the same as making the whole car sit higher by not lowering it as far. So one inch higher motor, theoretically means you can drop the car an extra inch lower, and maintain the same angles in the CVs. Again, depends on the purpose of the car. If it's a just cruiser on the street car, maybe won't be an issue. If it's meant to be a time attack car, I can see you not wanting to raise the motor. This is just for you to ponder as an idea.
    • Have you not seen geospy.ai? It can now give GPS co ords to within a metre from a photo, even if it's a random photo you take inside. Supposedly at the moment only the government/law enforcement has access to that... Supposedly...
    • I've got the rear ones, they're certainly beefy. I need to take them to my driveshaft guru to check over, he's very fussy about the quality of components so I'll let you know if they are made of cheese by a blind man.   Are you in Australia? A mate just had a set of EN26 shafts made for his K20 Lotus by our fabricator which were quite cheap (compared to Driveshaft Shop) so if you can procure the CV's and draw what you need he'd make them for ~$800 for the pair.
    • Had I known the diff between R32 and R33 suspension I would have R33 suspension. That ship has sailed so I'm doing my best to replicate a drop spindle without spending $4k on a Billet one.
    • OEM suspension starts to bind as soon as the car gets away from stock height. I locked in the caster and camber before cutting off the kingpin. I then let the upright down in a natural (unbound) state before re-attaching it. Now it moves freely in bump and droop relative to the new ride height. My plan is to add GKTech arms before the car is finished so I can dial camber and caster further. It will be fine. This isn't rocket science. Caster looks good, camber is good, upper arm doesn't cause crazy gain and it is now closer to the stock angle and bump steer checks out. Send it.
×
×
  • Create New...