Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 68
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Yeah, i think theyre 3/8 in diameter or something like that. They couldnt be in a better place really. Silly to run braid or any other solid line under the car if these are unused.

Shaun.

Whats wrong with just using the standard fuel lines under the car? Thats what i did, my setup is the blue skyline in the first post of this thread.

Edited by Gts30t
Whats wrong with just using the standard fuel lines under the car? Thats what i did, my setup is the blue skyline in the first post of this thread.

Can you remember the exact fittings you used to hook the braided lines up to the stock hard lines?

  • 3 weeks later...

That was my first thought, however I find that most of the time it looks really messy or disorganised. I'm thinking of running them underneath the fuel rail through cable holders (similar to what's used for computer cables or home entertainment cables) so that I don't have zip ties and plastic conduit going everywhere.

  • 3 weeks later...

Some very serious filtration going on there.

Are you running one tank for methanol/race fuel and the other tank for normal duties? As it looks like you have a distribution block that links to the fuel lines that run underneath the car?

Some very serious filtration going on there.

Are you running one tank for methanol/race fuel and the other tank for normal duties? As it looks like you have a distribution block that links to the fuel lines that run underneath the car?

u guessed it!

the sard surge tank is connected to the standard fuel tank which will be used for ur normal every day 98 octane

the fuel cell will be used for race fuel

the car is setup so it can swap between different fuel's via a switch inside the cabin

we are able to do this because the haltech E11v2 allows us to hold more then one tune map

so with a flick of a switch we can go from street mode to race mode

the wiring involved thats going into a setup like this is just mind blowing

the fuel cell is a custom item which we blue printed from the sard surge tank

we bought the sard surge tank from hi octane and copied its design and built our fuel cell from it

so not only is it a fuel cell its also a surge tank all in 1

the filler cap and lid are all CNC machined from billet

we will also be making our own sard surge tank copy's which we will have on the market for less then geniune sard items and they will perform just as good

  • 4 weeks later...
  • 10 months later...

Fuel system i recently did for a mates 33gtr im building.

i2pw2c.jpg

2ai4z7n.jpg

29yh0k1.jpg

347zgyf.jpg

1zvejci.jpg

For the fuel pump wiring, i used 2 30amp fused relays, 1 for each pump. Power is connected straight to the battery, and the trigger for the relays is spliced into the factory harness, its the wire that goes down into the fuel tank, its a switched 12v that powers on when u flick the key, easy to find with a multi.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I've seen similar actually in my situation. You never know what tables are attempted to be used when the car thinks it's -99C or +200C. The fail state is not usually that extreme but you know what I mean - it was in my case though! This is where being able to read all the sensors is useful cause you see this stuff really quickly.
    • The above is very important. However as long as you keep timing relatively low, it's plausible to make your own knock ears and plausible to learn to tune with a modern ECU that can do wideband O2 correction like a boost controller. I mean if you only have one viable road to even drive the car on, learning to tinker to this level may be worth doing given you can't do much else with the car...?
    • I find the fact that the rear plate has to be bent inwards at the rear not so bad: but the front is just awful: It's like come on. (these are my very old, now retired/turned in plates) TBH it is a lot of money to fix a minor issue, the fact I said "I'll never really spend the money on doing this" is why people ended up buying them as a gift for a 'car guy' who can be hard to shop for.. for car guy things.
    • I just bent the ends of my premo plates. It even went through Regency like that after the engine conversion and the inspector (a great bloke!) just squinted his eyes and said "I didn't see that". Plates, and how they look, are just something that have zero importance to me.
    • Yeah, I would have said the same. It makes me suggest that there are other things wrong, such that the ECU is totally unhappy with the broken sensor. The only other thought here is that maybe it is shorted, which might cause a different issue to the typical "disconnected" sensor.
×
×
  • Create New...