Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Has anyone investigated the possibilities of importing an R35 drive line yet??? Seriously? Engine and transaxle. No electronics etc....

If your a parts importer with any relevant information.... feel free to pm me.

Cheers

Justin.

Edited by XRATED
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/223145-r35-drive-line/
Share on other sites

What's there to investigate? It's pricing is well known and shipping via container pricing is also well known. What would you do with it once it got here...

You're looking at roughly, $32,000 for the engine assy minus turbos and accessories. $16,000 for the transaxle assy. To do anything with it you're looking at a lot more on bits and pieces.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/223145-r35-drive-line/#findComment-3931011
Share on other sites

Thanks, that was what I was was looking for. Is that price from nissan Japan, converted to AUD? I'm sorry I wasn't aware that the costs were so well known....

Also, I wasn't asking about shipping... I'm well aware of the costs to purchase and secure a container then freight it.

As for what I do with it.... My boss has two race teams, he's looking to retire an old M3 (2006) and asked me to look into a few things for him, as he knew I was into my Skylines and racing. I work internationally as a yacht engineer, my boss is American... so no, not a race team in Australia. At that cost for replacment essential parts, it will start to look viable as compared to campaining another BMW....

Cheers

Justin (currently south of france)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/223145-r35-drive-line/#findComment-3931040
Share on other sites

I don't want to start a flamewar, but has he considered a Z06?

The chassis and driveline is a lot more "proven" in terms of actual racing stress, he could just buy a C5R's crate engine (like the Nation's Cup Monaro did), and being in America it would be relatively cheap and easy to source parts.

The R35 is an impressive street car and shits all over the Z06 (or ZR1), but there's a world of difference between a handful of flying laps and a bit of a squirt on the street, and actually racing something.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/223145-r35-drive-line/#findComment-3931192
Share on other sites

Thanks, that was what I was was looking for. Is that price from nissan Japan, converted to AUD? I'm sorry I wasn't aware that the costs were so well known....

Also, I wasn't asking about shipping... I'm well aware of the costs to purchase and secure a container then freight it.

As for what I do with it.... My boss has two race teams, he's looking to retire an old M3 (2006) and asked me to look into a few things for him, as he knew I was into my Skylines and racing. I work internationally as a yacht engineer, my boss is American... so no, not a race team in Australia. At that cost for replacment essential parts, it will start to look viable as compared to campaining another BMW....

Cheers

Justin (currently south of france)

Those prices are straight from Nissan Japan which is the closest place to buy one from right now. I thought it was well known sorry I seemed abrupt but there is already a thread about it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/223145-r35-drive-line/#findComment-3931968
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Did you pay with a credit card? I'd be putting a charge back through then finding a new sparky to sort it out. 
    • If you mean the alarm immobiliser; theyre internal to the alarm itself which makes that difficult; I couldnt even see where he put it; its not in the same place as last time; but with all black wiring it might be very challenging to trace  I had someone turn the key for me as I know it only primes for a couple of seconds As my post above; I am getting no voltage to the pump at all; but I am testing continuity of the power line (SB) from the pump plug to the relay fine. As well as the negative from the pump plug to a 12V constant.    Yeah; he blammed the no start on a bad battery; said I needed to get a new battery and it'll start. Turns out the battery drained because the tail lights had been on for half the day during the install (the rubber cushion on the brake switch gave out while he was testing it as I have a picture of the car from that morning with the tail lights off..i've replaced that). The battery was turning over the engine just fine for a long time; but got low since lights were draining it so it was too low to test a start after he finished. I bought a new one on his advice...$250 wasted. My original battery charged up just fine and is healthy.    It was running perfectly fine when I messed up the old alarm (programmed out the remotes). He couldnt start it after removing the old alarm; my assumption is that when he unhooked it; he didnt bridge the circuit back when trying to start it. Its always been perfectly fine. The ECU swap and pump were 2 years ago. It's never missed a beat in that time. 
    • This is a big issue for me without the diff. I just have zero drive from the passenger side when drivers side has no traction. Bec's parents place has a crazy steep driveway with odd camber and I have never been able to get up. My bro-in-law's 130i with an (unknown brand) LSD gets up fine as does their dad's Hiace. My car stays at the bottom. We have other odd camber roads around here as we're elevated a bit and if it's raining I can get totally stuck around some hairpins. 
    • Yeah, I am super excited for this.
    • Was the car running before he touched the car?
×
×
  • Create New...