Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Item: R34 GTR turbos with stock actuators

Age: 2000 model

Condition: excellent

Price: $790 for the pair

To Fit: (What car) Anything with RB26

Location: Sydney

Contact: Jerry via pm or email: [email protected]

Comments: excellent condition turbos , they were replaced with aftermarket . These are ball bearing and bigger than R32/33 turbos , the car they came off was running standard boost ( no boost controller )

I have a pair of N1 actuators if anyone wants them at additional cost .

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/223185-r34-gtr-turbos-790/
Share on other sites

Do there still have a ceramic wheel like all the other turbos?

Same material as all standard GTR turbos dude.

jivlah : You can fit them on anything you want with the right exhaust manifolfd

Hey mate i thought that the N1 R34 turbos were steal wheel not ceramic?

Postage cost to Melb?

Cheers

I never said they are N1 Turbos, they are stock R34 GTR turbos ( came off a V-spec). I do have a pair of N1 ajustable actuators for additional cost if anyone wants them , use them and you don't need a boost controller

Post to melbourne metro, about $20 via Aussie post +rego and Insurance if needed about $10.

Item: R34 GTR turbos with stock actuators

Age: 2000 model

Condition: excellent

Price: $790 for the pair

To Fit: (What car) Anything with RB26

Location: Sydney

Contact: Jerry via pm or email: [email protected]

Comments: excellent condition turbos , they were replaced with aftermarket . These are ball bearing and bigger than R32/33 turbos , the car they came off was running standard boost ( no boost controller )

I have a pair of N1 actuators if anyone wants them at additional cost .

are they steal turbines

are they steal turbines

Here is a pic of them, they are stock V-spec turbos dude, I don't think any turbines are made from " steal", they are not stolen ...

post-5240-1215315825_thumb.jpg

post-5240-1215315837_thumb.jpg

I still have these ...

Hi Jerry...reading and interpreting the english language is somewhat difficult for some people.

guys these turbo's would be mint, good luck with the sale mate.

Hi Jerry...reading and interpreting the english language is somewhat difficult for some people.

guys these turbo's would be mint, good luck with the sale mate.

That's two that don't know the difference between 'steal' and 'steel' Paul , you wander what they learn at school these days .

For the ones that don't know the exhaust wheels are " inconel", a nickel-base alloy with chromium and iron, used in gas-turbine blades . Inconel alloys are typically used in high temperature applications, There are lots of different grades of this exotic alloy with different properties.

Inconel 600: Solid solution strengthened

Inconel 625: Acid resistant, good weldability

Inconel 690: Low cobalt content for nuclear applications

Inconel 718: Gamma double prime strengthened with good weldability

The above are some, probably lots more, not sure which one garrett use in the RB26 turbos.

When people refer to RB 26 turbos as 'ceramic' its incorrect they are not ceramic however when they smash they become tiny little pieces .

The so called steel wheel turbos , are not steel either, a magnet will not stick to them, some kind of alloy as well .

If anyone wants these temp me with an offer, even a silly one otherwise they are going on E-Bay, I don't feel like keeping themto do a swap in my car when time comes to sell it..

  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...