Jump to content
SAU Community

Careful Who You Take Your Car To ...

i hate rav 4's

By i hate rav 4's,
in South Australia

 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 67
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Posted Images

madevo3 Collaborator

madevo3

Posted
Posted

i got screwed with my new highmount turbo set up the mechanic i took it to stuffed it real good he made his own gasket out of some crap which looked like paper and went every where in my motor, he used the wrong boltz which melted on my head i had to spend well over 1500 dollars to get his mistake fixed not bloody happy never going back to him. its hard to find some one to do your car down in here in tassie

SLED Grand Master

SLED

Posted
Posted
^^ you already know the answer :)

Correct.....that's 2 of us now that have been shafted by that mob......and the only reason I went there in the first place is cause he used to be a so called mate.

I used to work on my Rex in his workshop many years ago and drink beer with him all day, now you can't put 1 foot in his workshop.

I've kept quiet for the last couple of months but obviously its time for my rant because he's burning others as well.

Having a Dyno doesn't make you a tuner. When a car is belting out that much black smoke out of the exh that you cant see the car in the workshop, you stop revving the shit out of it (hoping that it'll clear up eventually) and check your settings on the PFC.......try changing the injector values and latencys to accept the bigger injectors and maybe select the correct AFM values.

When a lower hose blows off the intercooler 4 times, you don't keep tightening it up with bigger clamps until it crushes the alloy pipe, you cut off your crooked pipe and re-weld it back on straight.

When an exhaust comes in with no rattles and leaves the workshop banging against the fuel tank and leaking through a hole in the brand new Cat, you do the job again, properly.

No clamps or ties on vacuum lines, fuel regulator squirting petrol all over the engine bay, I had to tell him how to re-route the fuel line onto the different bigger fuel rail, his old man kept bashing iridium plugs against a steel bench to reduce the gap but ended up squashing all of them then levered a screwdriver against the very fine wire electrode of the iridium (absolute NO NO on iridiums, you never touch the electrode, $150 plugs) until I jumped in again and told him how to do it..........I had to baby sit these guys when I should've found someone with a hoist and mig and done it myself.

But to add salt to injury, he quoted me $1000 for all the bolt on work and 1 day to do it (Shaun at Boostworks was a similar price, maybe a tad dearer). It took 3 days to do the job and when I went to pick it up the price doubled to $2000. He said that nothing was straight forward (derrrrr, is this the 1st GTR he's done) and that I couldn't take the car away until I paid him.

I'm really tempted to get legal with this guy and serve him personally then drag him before a small claims magistrate (up to $5000 without lawyers).

Madaz Grand Master

Madaz

Posted
Posted

is this bloke a fellow brother :) then no let it be if he isnt then pursue the matter further if your feel that is needed otherwise you have to try and live with the fact that you chose a mate over Shaun

i know that isnt a definitive answer but i think you know what needs to be done

SLED Grand Master

SLED

Posted
Posted
is this bloke a fellow brother :) then no let it be if he isnt then pursue the matter further if your feel that is needed otherwise you have to try and live with the fact that you chose a mate over Shaun

i know that isnt a definitive answer but i think you know what needs to be done

Like I said earlier, I have kept quiet about this for awhile now and have paid various other workshops to fix his stuff ups.

craig R33 Grand Master

craig R33

Posted
Posted

i used to be mates with the business owner of this mentioned "tuner"

when they where at the old shop, seemed like a good bloke, but then again, he was only doing a zorst on my VT.

would never take my line there, not after what adam told me.

RubyRS4 Grand Master

RubyRS4

Posted
Posted

This is why I do alot of my own work.

I have the knowledge and the tools. My old man was the head mechanic on the Datsun rally team in the 70s and avid motorcycle racer. My uncle a drag racer. I'd like to think I've been brought up right around mad-scientist-machinery. I know a ring spanner from a blow torch, so I do my own work when I can't trust anyone with my ride.

:)

SLED Grand Master

SLED

Posted
Posted
This is why I do alot of my own work.

I have the knowledge and the tools. My old man was the head mechanic on the Datsun rally team in the 70s and avid motorcycle racer. My uncle a drag racer. I'd like to think I've been brought up right around mad-scientist-machinery. I know a ring spanner from a blow torch, so I do my own work when I can't trust anyone with my ride.

:)

Yeah me too, I have a full workshop of tools that were gathered over almost 20 years of work at Adelaide Engine Service. So I too can build a bike or car from scratch but because I work so much these days, I don't have the time to do any major work (bike was built during 'graveyard shifts') and being self employed it costs me more to take time off work than to pay someone else to do the work.........I still don't like being shafted though!!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      7 Speed Auto transmission fluid change (Skyline, Q50, Q60, Fuga, Q70, A62 Titan and probably heaps of others including Navara...)

      By Duncan · Posted

      I thought I'd do a write up on an auto transmission fluid change for a the nissan 7 speed Automatic. At some stage the genius engineers decided that the fluid in the trans was "for the life of the transmission", (which seems kind of self supporting to me) and removed the dip stick and fill tube (funnily enough there is still a casting for it). Anyway, for this job you do need 2 specialist tools in addition to regular hand tools, jack and good chassis stands. You need a way to pump fluid up to the transmission; I got one of these but there are plenty of other options: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/364584087070 Don't trust the generic listing though, it does not come with the required adapter for the Nissan 7 Speed. You need one of these, can't do the job without it: https://navarapart.com.au/product/genuine-nissan-patrol-y62-d23-np300-navara-re7-dipstick-fill-connector1 You need a heap of compatible transmission oil. Could be Nissan, could be anything else rated for Nissan Matic S. You need at least 10 litres, I had 15 to give it a better flush... Also, you need some biiig oil catch trays, at least one of these, or bigger if possible (volume was fine, size was very marginal): https://autobarn.com.au/ab/Autobarn-Category/Tools-%26-Garage/Specialty-Tools/Oil-Service/Garage-Tough-Oil-Drain-Pan-Black-16L---GT1068/p/TO03191 Finally, a measuring jug is very useful if your pump does not have volumes marked on it, I got a 6l one: https://www.repco.com.au/oils-fluids/fluid-accessories/measuring-jugs/penrite-measuring-jug-6l-pmj006/p/A5322648 Oh, and gloves.....this stuff is horrible (not as bad as diff oil, but getting there) ....First, jack up your car.....
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I mentioned the apprentice, @LachyK helped take the bonnet off. We just undid the nuts on the hinges and unclipped the gas struts, then pulled the bonnet back a little as the front was catching on the front bar.  I had a good look at everything today and have removed the rams, repaired/reset the hinges and bolted it back together like it never happened. I'll do a separate write up on the repair, and I also removed the poppers from the Fuga today too to save grief down the road.....as said above it is at least $5k to repair retail. I'm also happier about my ability to prepare a race car, and less happy about Nis-nault's engineering (I can hear @GTSBoy sAfrican Americaning) because the top hose of the radiator didn't slip off.......it snapped clean off. By practice I put the hose clamp hard up against the flare on a neck to make it least likely to ever move (thanks @Neil!). I guess that puts a little more pressure on the end of the pipe as it is further away from the rad, but still, that is pretty shit. I've put it back on for now as there was a fair bit of neck still there, but obviously there is no lip on the neck any more so I don't think I'll track it again until I have a new rad. Speaking of which....more research required. It looks like Koyo makes a standard size radiator in ally which I'll grab in the meantime, but I really want something thicker so might have to go custom in the medium term (ouch) Coolant still needs a refill and I have the pressure tester on it over night, but other than a wash down of the engine bay it seems alright. And @MBS206 noted something noisy on the front of the engine and I think I agree....time for a new accessory belt and tensioners I think.
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      our good friends at nismo make a diff for it, I have one (and a spare housing to put the centre in) on the way. https://www.nismo.co.jp/products/web_catalogue/lsd/mechanical_lsd_v37.html AMS also make a helical one, but I prefer mechanical for track use in 2wd (I do run a quaife in the front, but not rear of the R32)
    • GTSBoy
      R33 persistent issues. P/steering and lag/misfire

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      What are we supposed to be seeing in the photo of the steering angle sensor? The outer housing doesn't turn, right? All the action is on the inside. The real test here is whether or not your car has had the steering put back together by a butcher. When the steering is centred (and we're not caring about the wheel too much here, we're talking about the front wheels, parallel, facing front) then you should have an absolutely even number of turns from centre to left lock and centre to right lock. If there is any difference at all then perhaps the thing has been put back together wrongly, either the steering wheel put on one spline (or more!) off, and the alignment bodged to straighteb the wheel, or the opposite where something silly was done underneath and the wheel put back on crooked to compensate. Nut there isn't actually much evidence that you have such a problem anyway. It is something you can easily measure and test for to find out though. My money is still on the HICAS CU not driving the PS solenoid with the proper PWM signal required to lighten the load at lower speed. If it were me, I would be putting either a multimeter or oscilloscope onto the solenoid terminals and taking it for a drive, looking for the voltage to change. The PWM signal is 0v, 12V, 0V, 12v with ...obviously...modulated pulse width. You should see that as an average voltage somewhere between 0V and 12V, and it should vary with speed. An handheld oscilloscope would be the better tool for this, because they are definitely good enough but there's no telling if any cheap shit multimeter that people have lying around are good enough. You can also directly interfere with the solenoid. If you wire up a little voltage divider with variable resistor on it, and hook the PS solenoid direct to 12V through that, you can manually adjust the voltage to the solenoid and you should be able to make it go ligheter and heavier. If you cannot, then the problem is either the solenoid itself dead, or your description of the steering being "tight" (which I have just been assuming you mean "heavy") could be that you have a mechanical problem in the steering and there is heaps of resistance to movement.
    • MissMintyR33
      R33 persistent issues. P/steering and lag/misfire

      By MissMintyR33 · Posted

      Little update  I have shimmed the solenoid on the rack today following Keep it Reets video on YouTube. However my steering is still tight. I have this showing on Nisscan, my steering angle sensor was the closest to 0 degrees (I could get it to 0 degrees by small little tweaks, but the angle was way off centre? I can't figure this out for the life of me. I get no faults through Nisscan. 
×
×
  • Create New...