Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

when drifting and trying to bring the radius of your turn down a bit sometimes you need to bounce it....

mine is set to 7400 and has been there a number of times... never missed a beat... and yes... 25's are cheap enough :)

the idea of rev limiters and tachometer shift lights go hand in hand, when you change gears you want the engine rpm to fall back right into the middle of the power/torque area when the motor is just at its peak power levels...(where the hp and trq curves meet/intersect or are closest to each other...within reason of course)

Doesn't work like that. You only want to change when the torque in the rpm range that you will be in in the next gear multiplied by the next gears ratio is higher than the current torque you are making in the current gear.

My SR for example dies off at the top, but at 7000rpm in 2nd gear I'm still making more torque at the wheels than I would be at 4800rpm in 3rd. so I change as late as possible if I'm edging every bit out of it.

my avcr says that mine goes to 7500 quite often, is there an easy way to to remove the limiter, the sooner i blow this engine the sooner i get my arse into gear and build my self a big banger.

Shift into 2nd gear while doing 180km/h should give you an epic failure.

but i still want the rest of the car in one piece.

drive it without any oil lol :) you'll be amazed how long it lasts lol

i need to have some reusable bits left over, like the block.

Doesn't work like that. You only want to change when the torque in the rpm range that you will be in in the next gear multiplied by the next gears ratio is higher than the current torque you are making in the current gear.

+1 for this.

Re: rev limit, i'd say stick the stock rev limit if you've got a stock bottom end. If you stay off the limiter and have a good tune it should last a long time. Anything higher than that and the risk of damage increases. And its not a linear increase either - IIRC its a square increase, ie the stress at 6000rpm is four times the stress at 3000rpm, not double as you might suspect.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This looks great! Awesome to have the 5 speed with an LSD in this. The Recaro's look like SR2's or SR3's. It's a shame they've been retrimmed as they would have looked sweet in their original colours. I think I'd want my agent to be a little more up front and informative too. I've never imported but I reckon it would make me a little nervous, so the more info the better.
    • Thanks for doing that Duncan! Makes you a good person in my books. We don't get kangaroos or wombats here. But we have bats and it's similar. AFAIK it's often the mums with a baby attached that get hit because they drop lower when starting from a tree. If you hit an animal, check on it. https://www.ifaw.org/au/resources/wildlife-rescue-app An app to get the closest wildlife rescue contact.
    • My dream is also to have a proper hoist, but I don't think it will ever happen. My quickjack is probably as close as I'll ever get, it really is very good though. 
    • Yeah we keep on in the dailies, it is pretty poor how many animals get hit and the driver leaves without checking....have saved a couple of little ones over the years. Bit of a gruesome job though, pouches generally need to be cut open because they are so tight and often the joey doesn't realise mum is gone so they are still locked onto the teat. I checked the modules in front of the DS wheel where an oil cooler should go.... There is the radar unit - that can go for race use) One of the 2 HX water pumps, the silver cylinder. That needs to be kept but might be able to be relocated But the bad news, the big computer mounted vertically in front of the wheel (blocking any potential air exit) is the electric steering computer. That is required until/unless i do a hydraulic steering conversion, and in CAD based modern car design it is not like I can just pop a big unit like that somewhere else (plus the loom would be too short anywhere else too). So, the passenger side is OK to clear out (just use a smaller washer reservoir, potentially elsewhere), but the DS no beuno
    • Well, all the best with the new camry It was interesting to hear about the UK process, it is generally a lot more streamlined here with a shipping agent looking after all the import side (noting the exact final price can still be a surprise.....) and I've used a few different brokers on the japan (or US) side, and never had any trouble with any of them....luck of the draw I guess. You mentioned you didn't get the auction sheet (understandable since you bought it from a dealer, not auction), but I always try and get hold of that because they are pretty thorough. I've imported 2x R grade vehicles over the years and both were fine, repairs in Japan are pretty thorough compared to here in Oz.
×
×
  • Create New...