Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Can anyone here polish a set of mags for me.

they are currently silver painted with polished outer lips but i want the whole thing polished.

I need them done fairly soon and am willing to pay (a smallish amount) if you wanna send some offers

no referrals to alliance rim repair as they cannot do it

thanks

RiaZ

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/22365-help-with-wheel-polishing/
Share on other sites

cam long time no perv at chicks mate

yeah thanks bud, call me at work or sms me the polishers number so I can get this sorted,

the 200sx is gonna be up for sale very very shortly and i wanna put the 3 piece wheels on it, chrome is looking hot at the moment but i figure some gleamy polished rims would do the trick as well.

missus seems to be hinting toward castration if i sell the chrome

Look no further than Briffa Engineering in Morley!

He has polished mine and some of the other fellas on the forums mags... AWESOME JOB and VERY cheap prices! He is an old school friend of min just mention you are friends with Dan , owner of SLY 33 skyline andd he will really look after you, some of the guys on here can vouch for his good work and prices!

Dan

thanks dan

I will call tomorrow bro

its either get them polished or buy a dremel multipro tool and get to work either way i come up around $180 or so

but yeah people have also been sayng wheel gleam on the silvia forums but smeh, i heard he is very pricey

i think he makes them diamond encrusted :)

appreciate it Dan and hey Cam dont forget to find out.

Oh yeah also my s14 is cruisin now so prepare for it on the next cruise

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, plenty of air flow, there is a dedicated path that feeds the air in to the OEM intake tube behind the bumper As for a "tangible effect", maybe, but getting the pod/intake air out of the hot engine bay is worth it psychologically to me, even if it gives no performance difference, so the tangible effect in my Lizard brain saysss yessss  In the end, to me a tangible effect isn't always about performance, sometimes it a sound or a look, or even a...... feeling  Ooga-Chaka Ooga-Ooga Ooga-Chaka Ooga-Ooga Ooga-Chaka Ooga-Ooga Ooga-Chaka Ooga-Ooga
    • yeah first and reverse is where you will find clutch release issues (whether hydraulic or mechanical) because the difference in revs required is the highest there; particularly changing down from 2nd to 1st when still moving. To be clearer though, it is possible that the clutch release bearing is the wrong height. This is less likely than a hydraulic issue but it is not unheard of when you are mixing and matching
    • Quite right, if you make it to that pension you deserve every cent
    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
×
×
  • Create New...