Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

stumpbed onto this thing, i no the gurus proberly heard it a thousand years ago but was wondering if anyone has one set up on their car.

how effective is this thing?

more info here

http://www.racelogic.co.uk/?show=Traction_Control

:)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/223693-racelogic-traction-control/
Share on other sites

My uncle is installing it on his 500kW (at the wheels) Corvette. He is quite positive it will help him get some traction around Malalla as at the moment he has very little!

Will let you know how he goes

thanks mike, keep us posted.

i was comparing this thing to the Beer Rev limiter and other launch controllers...... and was wondering which one would be more effective

im sure there great but, probly exspensive, in my R34 i just ground traction controll butter fly down a little which made it heaps more fun but not as unsafe as driving around with it turned off.

but thats just me

They cannot be compared to the Bee-R. A guy i know has one in a 450hp SVI Rx7. I've heard its phenomenal. Set your slip ratio with the control, say 10% and you can just plant it out of slow corners with it maintaining that slip % while rally style popping out the exhaust.

i hear it goes for around $1500

not cheap =] but if it works im defiently grabbn one

I have run an RLTC with launch control (pre-digital adjuster version) for a while now. It is, quite simply, a phenomenal unit. I run it on a moderately modified 1JZ Soarer making substantially more power than stock, and it has literally saved my life in the wet on at least 3 separate occasions. It is no substitute for driving with "situational awareness", but in a high powered RWD car, it just buys you that little extra time to perform corrective manoeuvres. I imagine the benefits would multiply on a high powered AWD car. The launch control is fun too :D As stated, it is very customisable; basic settings are Wet, Dry, and 10--30% slip via the adjustment knob. Obviously, it can also be switched off.

IMHO it's one of the most worthwhile mods I've ever performed.

Edited by shombre
im sure there great but, probly exspensive, in my R34 i just ground traction controll butter fly down a little which made it heaps more fun but not as unsafe as driving around with it turned off.

but thats just me

LOL great way to lean you're engine out, the TCS is a fine balance between ignition and fuel cut (3 cylinders off) and blancing the air to match via the butterfly, letting more air in due to grinding the buterfly down will push your AFRs stupidly high.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey crew, Failed my WOF cause of a lower control arm, and I've decided to hit both arms, and also the compression rods at the same time(seems they're gonna be the most likely upcoming failure points from some discussions with the lads over on the G35 reddit). I've looking at these form Z1:  https://www.z1motorsports.com/front-suspension/hayaku-automotive/hayaku-g35-front-compression-rod-p-40716.html https://www.z1motorsports.com/front-suspension/hayaku-automotive/hayaku-g35-front-lower-control-arm-p-40674.html I asked Z1 if they'd work as it's the same platform, just RHD vs LHD. I basically got told "Lol dunno". Specifically they aren't aware of any difference but can't guarantee fitment as they haven't done it on a 350GT. So guess I'm asking is if there is any issues with using 2005 G35 coupe suspension parts on a 2005 350GT coupe? Orginally I thought it could be something in the way of the arms that each control arm is designed to be positioned around, but that'd be an engineering nightmare for Nissan needing two different shaped control arms 😅
    • ^ This. The mode door actuator is a common failure, as is the actuator and/or the actual valve for the coolant flow control valve. I also don't know how available the mode door actuator is these days. I've been meaning to look into it and get one from wherever is possible, to keep in the shed for the rainy day when mine eventually fails. Anyway, the advice to you is to search the usual NOS part supply places, or even just go to Nissan and see what they list.
    • Have you got a pic of the actuator? My guess is that unit has failed internally and was flopping around, so the previous engineer who owned it forced it to be fully open to cold air (blocking the heater core path). As far as you can tell, is anything else wrong in the system? Likely you just need a new actuator (not sure how available they are) and then "installation is the reverse of disassembly"
    • I'm happy with the Lsailt unit that I put in, it puts full Android on the top screen so you can run whatever Nav and other Apps you want, while still existing inside the factory functionality like automatic reverse cams, audio input switching, retains factory bluetooth etc. Not cheap and the install was moderate (not simple, not hard) Yours is a V36 not V37 though right?
    • Yeap, all the NC's that I originally looked at that had a hard top were PRHT, which makes the roof line look horrible, hence why I said nope to them My only caveat for another MX5 was it needed to have a hard top, and initially I didn't think you could get a detachable hard top for the NC,  like my NB had Again, a big thanks to Matty for helping me source the detachable hard top for my little girl, they are as rare as hens teeth in Australia, and the few people who have them, keep them Also to Greg, for initially pointing me in the NC direction NC PRHT 🤢🤮 Not mine (I really should take more photos of my car), but a NC with the detachable hard top 😁 To me, the difference in how the detachable hard top roof line looks, and how it actually follows the bodies lines, like they do on NA's and NB's, is chalk and cheese compared to the bulbous looking PRHT  
×
×
  • Create New...