Jump to content
SAU Community

How to Bypass HICAS

Lozza150

By Lozza150,
in Tutorials / DIY / FAQ

 Share

Recommended Posts

  • 3 months later...
Paul SM Collaborator

Paul SM

Posted
Posted
This Link has details of how to bypass HICAS for racing.

http://homepages.tig.com.au/~robs/hicaslock.htm

A very interesting link but it prompts some questions:

Does all of the above apply to R33 GTS-T's, which have a different version of the HICAS to that of the R32's?

If the kit is suitable for R33's, where can it be sourced?

As I run my R33 in supersprints I have at this stage just pulled the fuse on the HICAS system to de-activate it. I did this after installing a full Whiteline suspension kit and it seems to have eliminated most of the feedback I was getting through the steering wheel on fast sweepers - but not all of it. My next move was going to be to take the rack off and simply fit a rigid but adjustable bar in its place. Any thoughts on this?

  • 5 months later...
skyline Collaborator

skyline

Posted
Posted

Paul

Its quite safe to remove the rack(and save about 20kgs in weight) and replace it with billet aluminium plate or fixed tube with threaded ends which you can attach adj rose jointed arms with which you can adj your toe in/out.I have been running full whiteline kit with bilstein coil overs and no hicas for two years now with no side effects,a better handling car and much better tyre life!!!

Regards,

SKYLINE...(Kym).

skyline Collaborator

skyline

Posted
Posted

Paul

Its quite safe to remove the rack(and save about 20kgs in weight) and replace it with billet aluminium plate or fixed tube with threaded ends which you can attach adj rose jointed arms with which you can adj your toe in/out.I have been running full whiteline kit with bilstein coil overs and no hicas for two years now with no side effects,a better handling car and much better tyre life!!!

Regards,

SKYLINE...(Kym).

Paul SM Collaborator

Paul SM

Posted
Posted
Paul

     Its quite safe to remove the rack(and save about 20kgs in weight) and replace it with billet aluminium plate or fixed tube with threaded ends which you can attach adj rose jointed arms with which you can adj your toe in/out.I have been running full whiteline kit with bilstein coil overs and no hicas for two years now with no side effects,a better handling car and much better tyre life!!!

    Regards,

                   SKYLINE...(Kym).

Thanks for your reply, Kym. That's just what I envisaged could be done but so far I haven't really tried to find someone to make it up. I did talk to the suspension guy who installed the Whiteline kit but he thought it was all a bit hard and a race preparation specialist I spoke to looked at it and seemed to think that it wouldn't really be any more effective than switching off the rack and leaving it on the car - but the weight saving is attractive. Do you think your fabricated bar works better than the switched-off rack?

Paul.

GTRgeoff Grand Master

GTRgeoff

Posted
Posted

BigDatto, thanks for the plug.

I found I noticed the rear subframe moving around a bit on track after the lock bar went in so I need pineapples of alloy lock spacers. The fitting is easy but you need a wheel alignment after (just to whiteline specs for toe) and the light will come on but you could pull the dash and remove the globe.

  • 3 weeks later...
Greg Veteran

Greg

Posted
Posted

i fitted one of geoff's lock bars (i recommend it) but now my steering is heavy at low speeds - any ideas why?

previously i had the tomei hicas lock kit. this included a computer unit that u wired into the hicas computer, but i removed this and this is when the problems started.... so everyone else with the lock bar has perfect steering?

  • 1 month later...
BenA31 Experienced

BenA31

Posted
Posted
i fitted one of geoff's lock bars (i recommend it) but now my steering is heavy at low speeds - any ideas why?  

previously i had the tomei hicas lock kit. this included a computer unit that u wired into the hicas computer, but i removed this and this is when the problems started.... so everyone else with the lock bar has perfect steering?

possibly try reconnecting the wires that you spliced for the tomei kit.

when i bought my car, the whole computer at the back had been disconeccted and after i connected it back up the steering was back to normal, as it had been also very heavy as u mentioned. so i suggest trying just connecting the wires back up if u havn't already

  • 1 month later...
TokyoTaxi Veteran

TokyoTaxi

Posted
Posted
This Link has details of how to bypass HICAS for racing.

http://homepages.tig.com.au/~robs/hicaslock.htm

Lozza150,

Couldn't re-find the post you started on HICAS Diagnostics so I was just wondering if you could answer the folloing question. I ran the diagnostic check as you stated to do on an R33 GTS ( non-turbo ) and got the following results:

- 10 fast flashes

- 5 second gap

- 2 long flashes

- 2 short flashes

Any idea what that indicates as faulty ?

Thanks in advance.

  • 1 month later...
Nozila Grand Master

Nozila

Posted
Posted

Ok, Ive also stumbled across a trouble with the hicas but it happened when i installed a ebc - profec a to be exact. Can any shed some light onto why this is happening. I only noticed that the hicas light was on once i installed the ebc and was going to take it for a few runs. The light doesnt seem to go away anymore.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The Bogan
      Torana Lx Gtr Hatch, Lots Of Pictures

      By The Bogan · Posted

      LOL, when one "money pit" is never enough Noice, and excellent work mate
    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      I have more than enough digging, laying blocks, moving gravel, airrating, feeding and top soiling the grass, and setting up the veggie gardens growing some seedlings,  and then removing all the unused rock to keep me busy for the next few months at least,  hopefully the rain stops soon so I can get a few hours in this arvo, but, before that Sunday is washing day, is every body happy, you bet your life we are Nice country road day drives are a day off whenever I'm muscle sore from all the landscaping at the moment, but, more epic multiple day drives will start once the majority of the big jobs outside are completed
    • MBS206
      NC MX5

      By MBS206 · Posted

      I hear that would involve some nice country road drives into the hills for Mark...
    • MBS206
      Recommendation for engine oil funnel spill free

      By MBS206 · Posted

      I thought I'd come back and add something I JUST learned. A Toyota LandCruiser with a 1HZ, mates perfectly with a bottle of Nulon brake fluid. As in, it perfectly screws in. Great make shift funnel when you cut the bottom of it off. This may work for your Corolla.   Unfortunately, tipping a 10L drum is much harder than a 4 to 6L bottle, and they no longer include the easy pour tap which was just perfection to use previously.  
    • EndZee
      Fuel Pump Control Module & Dropping Resistor

      By EndZee · Posted

      Guys since i bought r33 gts25t coupe 1994 automatic a/t(manual swap 350z gearbox)  all i got is problems, always problems. Lets start with that when i turn key into ignition(ON) fuel pump doesnt always works. Sometimes i have to turn key twice Off/on/off/on until it primes. Its new, dw300 - 340lph. My gearbox broke so i did gearbox swap, install different intake manifold, injectors and i take pipes. Car was sitting in garage for more than half a year. I did assembly all not that long ago and when i turn ignition cant hear prime. All of sudden it stopped working. Theres many videos on YouTube how to make relay mod on r33 straight from battery so i did and it doesnt work! 😰 30 - battery positive  87 - positive from fuel pump to relay 85, 86 - one of two wires from original fuel pump wires(light blue, grey) and it didn’t work. so I check on ignition and took original BLUE relays wires from trunk, next to fuses. (I believe it’s IGN+ and ECU pin 18. it didn’t work…  tried connecting (IGN+ from og relay) and (ECU 104 from 1of4 FPCM wires) to my new relay 85/86 and it didn’t work.  I unplug FPCM. Didn’t work. im thinking what’s wrong   fuel pump is working, if I leave IGN+ on 85 and 86 straight to ground it works but it’s just nonstop. Since it getting constant 12v after key in ON. light blue wire gives me 6-8v.  so how this should be connected? What causing ECU not giving — on pin? Or I did sth wrong and that’s why it doesn’t work? I need negative signal on ECU that control fuel pump. What this should be?
×
×
  • Create New...