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How to Bypass HICAS

Lozza150

By Lozza150,
in Tutorials / DIY / FAQ

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  • 3 months later...
Paul SM Collaborator

Paul SM

Posted
Posted
This Link has details of how to bypass HICAS for racing.

http://homepages.tig.com.au/~robs/hicaslock.htm

A very interesting link but it prompts some questions:

Does all of the above apply to R33 GTS-T's, which have a different version of the HICAS to that of the R32's?

If the kit is suitable for R33's, where can it be sourced?

As I run my R33 in supersprints I have at this stage just pulled the fuse on the HICAS system to de-activate it. I did this after installing a full Whiteline suspension kit and it seems to have eliminated most of the feedback I was getting through the steering wheel on fast sweepers - but not all of it. My next move was going to be to take the rack off and simply fit a rigid but adjustable bar in its place. Any thoughts on this?

  • 5 months later...
skyline Collaborator

skyline

Posted
Posted

Paul

Its quite safe to remove the rack(and save about 20kgs in weight) and replace it with billet aluminium plate or fixed tube with threaded ends which you can attach adj rose jointed arms with which you can adj your toe in/out.I have been running full whiteline kit with bilstein coil overs and no hicas for two years now with no side effects,a better handling car and much better tyre life!!!

Regards,

SKYLINE...(Kym).

skyline Collaborator

skyline

Posted
Posted

Paul

Its quite safe to remove the rack(and save about 20kgs in weight) and replace it with billet aluminium plate or fixed tube with threaded ends which you can attach adj rose jointed arms with which you can adj your toe in/out.I have been running full whiteline kit with bilstein coil overs and no hicas for two years now with no side effects,a better handling car and much better tyre life!!!

Regards,

SKYLINE...(Kym).

Paul SM Collaborator

Paul SM

Posted
Posted
Paul

     Its quite safe to remove the rack(and save about 20kgs in weight) and replace it with billet aluminium plate or fixed tube with threaded ends which you can attach adj rose jointed arms with which you can adj your toe in/out.I have been running full whiteline kit with bilstein coil overs and no hicas for two years now with no side effects,a better handling car and much better tyre life!!!

    Regards,

                   SKYLINE...(Kym).

Thanks for your reply, Kym. That's just what I envisaged could be done but so far I haven't really tried to find someone to make it up. I did talk to the suspension guy who installed the Whiteline kit but he thought it was all a bit hard and a race preparation specialist I spoke to looked at it and seemed to think that it wouldn't really be any more effective than switching off the rack and leaving it on the car - but the weight saving is attractive. Do you think your fabricated bar works better than the switched-off rack?

Paul.

GTRgeoff Grand Master

GTRgeoff

Posted
Posted

BigDatto, thanks for the plug.

I found I noticed the rear subframe moving around a bit on track after the lock bar went in so I need pineapples of alloy lock spacers. The fitting is easy but you need a wheel alignment after (just to whiteline specs for toe) and the light will come on but you could pull the dash and remove the globe.

  • 3 weeks later...
Greg Veteran

Greg

Posted
Posted

i fitted one of geoff's lock bars (i recommend it) but now my steering is heavy at low speeds - any ideas why?

previously i had the tomei hicas lock kit. this included a computer unit that u wired into the hicas computer, but i removed this and this is when the problems started.... so everyone else with the lock bar has perfect steering?

  • 1 month later...
BenA31 Experienced

BenA31

Posted
Posted
i fitted one of geoff's lock bars (i recommend it) but now my steering is heavy at low speeds - any ideas why?  

previously i had the tomei hicas lock kit. this included a computer unit that u wired into the hicas computer, but i removed this and this is when the problems started.... so everyone else with the lock bar has perfect steering?

possibly try reconnecting the wires that you spliced for the tomei kit.

when i bought my car, the whole computer at the back had been disconeccted and after i connected it back up the steering was back to normal, as it had been also very heavy as u mentioned. so i suggest trying just connecting the wires back up if u havn't already

  • 1 month later...
TokyoTaxi Veteran

TokyoTaxi

Posted
Posted
This Link has details of how to bypass HICAS for racing.

http://homepages.tig.com.au/~robs/hicaslock.htm

Lozza150,

Couldn't re-find the post you started on HICAS Diagnostics so I was just wondering if you could answer the folloing question. I ran the diagnostic check as you stated to do on an R33 GTS ( non-turbo ) and got the following results:

- 10 fast flashes

- 5 second gap

- 2 long flashes

- 2 short flashes

Any idea what that indicates as faulty ?

Thanks in advance.

  • 1 month later...
Nozila Grand Master

Nozila

Posted
Posted

Ok, Ive also stumbled across a trouble with the hicas but it happened when i installed a ebc - profec a to be exact. Can any shed some light onto why this is happening. I only noticed that the hicas light was on once i installed the ebc and was going to take it for a few runs. The light doesnt seem to go away anymore.

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