Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 123
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

well im out wont have my car back till monday now :):( will be there and driving next time for sure so plz keep me posted about the next one :cheers:

Sorry to hear Adam - I'll let you know when I am out next. I'm away a lot for work but I will go out at every given opportunity!

Wheres a good spot to get a Cams approved helmet from?

Go for Revolution Racegear or Autosport - but you can use ADR compliant helmets, which generally means you can use most if not all motorbike helmets.

Wheres a good spot to get a Cams approved helmet from?

Any helmet with the ADR approved sticker will do Luke.

Depends how fusssy you are on a helmet but you can spend anything from $50 to $1000 for a helmet.

had such a good time today, most fun i've ever had behind the wheel of a car. Farstest lap i did was a 1.25 on my street tyres. Thanks to Andy for the advise, it definatly helped me. The car ran perfect all day, untill i had a look at my front brakes :ermm:

brakedisc.jpg

had such a good time today, most fun i've ever had behind the wheel of a car. Farstest lap i did was a 1.25 on my street tyres. Thanks to Andy for the advise, it definatly helped me. The car ran perfect all day, untill i had a look at my front brakes :ermm:

Yay for cross drilled rotors on shitty metal. What brand rotors? I usually only go slotted but have to make note of what x-drilled rotors get fatigue like that....

-D

Was a wicked day - ran a 1:17:01 as the quickest, and no matter what I did I couldn't crack a 16!!! Was great to get back on the track again - Dstroy did really well to keep that beast on the circuit with all the sliding around you were getting!!!!!!

Was a wicked day - ran a 1:17:01 as the quickest, and no matter what I did I couldn't crack a 16!!! Was great to get back on the track again - Dstroy did really well to keep that beast on the circuit with all the sliding around you were getting!!!!!!

what tyres & pads were you running Andrew and how much oil were you putting in the catch can on average.

what tyres & pads were you running Andrew and how much oil were you putting in the catch can on average.

I was running a fairly worn out set of RE55s bridgestones on 33GTR rims - 255x45x17. Brake pads are street spec at each end, although I do have AP brakes at the front, braided lines and brake ducts too. I didn't have any issues with oil venting into the catch can - but I never have. I reckon it might have collected maybe 100ml over the course of the day (6x15min sessions).

Can't wait to get out there again!!!!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah well per the video it took 15s for the stock unit to start up....even if I give it a few seconds discount for starting that is at least 12 sec before you get a reverse camera if you are trying to leave a park.  The android unit is way faster, but 2016 for the stock unit is a long time ago in consumer electronics
    • Yea that’s why I said ima test them with multimeter and see the reads.
    • Only at idle. Isn’t a problem when rev it seems.
    • @Haggerty This seems silly to ask, but are you confident in your ability to tune the Haltech?  
    • Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
×
×
  • Create New...